Art Martin: Will the Real Logger Please Stand Up

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Hi Jeff,

I'm sorry that I can't help you on frozen timber because I've never worked in an area where the timber freezes. The article you are referring to must have been authored by someone else who lives in cold climate.

Art Martin
 
Art Martin said:
Hi Jeff,

I'm sorry that I can't help you on frozen timber because I've never worked in an area where the timber freezes. The article you are referring to must have been authored by someone else who lives in cold climate.

Art Martin
Click to expand...

I cut pretty much of frozen timber (and i mean totally frozen) and the general advice is that frozen wood requiress less angle (topplate and sideplate) than not-frozen wood and also slightly lowered depthgauges to keep up the chip flow...
 
ozflea

G'day Bob,
Nice to hear from you and thanks for posting the pictures from the Placerville show. I'm glad to hear that you are planning to build a saw with an 820 West Bend engine after seeing my two West Bend saws. Just don't paint it yellow. Also it makes me happy to see that you changed your "handle" from Mc Bob to Bender Bob. Best regards and see you later this year.

Bender Art
 
Art Martin said:
...or have an old depth gauge with an adjustment wheel on it. Even with those adjustable gauges it was hard to know what the thousandths are because they just had numbers on the adjustment wheel that ran from 1 to 9. Myself, I like to know what the exact setting is in thousandths. Art Martin
Click to expand...


Yeah Art....I think this is the type of gauge you're talking about. They work quick and easy and mine even has adjustments in thousandths. Unfortunately Oregon doesn't make them anymore.

new500parts013-1.jpg

new500parts012-1.jpg
 
Art Martin said:
Hi Jeff,

I'm sorry that I can't help you on frozen timber because I've never worked in an area where the timber freezes. The article you are referring to must have been authored by someone else who lives in cold climate.

Art Martin
Click to expand...
Please excuse my memory faux paux. I think the thread was from 4 or 5 years ago and I'm still a searchin. I'll bump it if I can find it.Thank you.
 
Art Martin said:
ozflea

G'day Bob,
Nice to hear from you and thanks for posting the pictures from the Placerville show. I'm glad to hear that you are planning to build a saw with an 820 West Bend engine after seeing my two West Bend saws. Just don't paint it yellow. Also it makes me happy to see that you changed your "handle" from Mc Bob to Bender Bob. Best regards and see you later this year.

Bender Art
Click to expand...

Well it's because of people like yourself and Marita and of course her wonderful sandwiches that i'll return i certainly enjoyed the hospitality you and the Rupeley's extended towards both me and Jared.

As regards the ROOT saw i'll be inclined to redo it in it's origional colours do you still have that spare Westbend 820 ?? I haven't forgotten it.

Bender Bob.
 
ozflea

G'day Bob,

I still have that 820 West Bend that has never been started.
I'm glad you taught me how to speak Australian and I still remember it, like G'day. Also I now know the difference between a Crocodile and an Alligator. Other than that I didn't understand a word you were saying. We look forward to seeing you again and we'll throw another shrimp on the barbie. Good luck on restoring the Root saw.

Best regards,
Art
 
art--having had a auto repair business for 30+ years--i aint moving!!!!!!!!!!!!! there aint a semi big enough!!!!!!!!!!! but the climate would suit me!!!!!!!!:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:
 
Since there are so many new members joining the Arboristsite, now would be a good time to discuss how a chain cuts. With some paraphrasing and excerpts from articles that I have read and were authored by chain saw manufactures, I will try to explain what happens when you start your saw and begin to make a cut. Most people don’t think much about the process, they just hold the saw and eventually the log is severed by this mean, dangerous and fast turning tool attached to a loud, noisy engine.
Most people are also surprised to learn that a tooth must actually leave the guide bar groove to cut wood efficiently. The chain cuts by a “porpoising” action. It resembles a porpoise swimming in the ocean. The leading edge of the tooth starts the “bite” causing the tooth to rock back as far as the depth gauge will allow it. The tooth is now in the cutting position. The cutter now leaves the groove of the bar and goes into the wood. The tension of the chain now increases and the power of the engine pulls the chain back out of the wood and the severed chip exits from the underside of the cutter (chip channel). The tooth now returns to its original position and the process is repeated over and over by the teeth on the chain.
The depth gauges are often referred to as “rakers”. The actual function of the depth gauge is to determine how far the tooth will rock back and how big of a bite it will take. In real softwood, the depth gauge will sometimes sink into the wood itself and cause the saw to bog down. On real softwood it may be better to run the chain with higher depth gauges. The “clearance angle” of the cutter is the reason why a tooth is able to rock back and take its bite. The clearance angle is the downward slope of the tooth as it goes from front to rear. The rear of the tooth is lower than the front. Without a clearance angle, the cutter would not be able to rock out the wood.
.
Art Martin
 
buck futter said:
http://www.bantasaw.com/products/ChainSaw/Guide/guide_working.shtml


I think Art should file







a lawsuit those guys on that site stole the words right out of his mouth.:hmm3grin2orange: :stupid:
Click to expand...

Did you read what he said?

Art Martin said:
Since there are so many new members joining the Arboristsite, now would be a good time to discuss how a chain cuts. With some paraphrasing and excerpts from articles that I have read and were authored by chain saw manufactures, I will try to explain what happens when you start your saw and begin to make a cut.
.
Art Martin
Click to expand...

Now where did bantasaw get it? Maybe from the Carlton Handbook?

http://www.sawchain.com/images/complete book.pdf

scroll to page 5.
 
The abbreviated post that I submitted "how a chain cuts" was meant for the new comers to this site. It is readily available on many chain information sites, I suppose.
For a more comprehensive discussion about the subject, read the entire page 18 of this thread. You will not find this type of discussion on any other site. The opinions that I gave are mine and are the results of my 50 years experience along with the results my tests, versus the opinions of a very intelligent educated mathematician/analyst with virtually no chainsaw experience. Some of it goes over to page 19.

Art Martin
 
Hey Buck Futter,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Mind your manners please,,,, If you dont like this type of thread,,, nobobdy's asking you to stay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:bang:
Thanks alot Art,,,, A pleasure as always
 
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