Ashley NCA1 Woodstove

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YCSTEVE

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Have any of you guys had any luck with one of these stoves. All the stoves I have had were older than this one and they would draft directly from the fire box to the chimney. This one looks like the smoke is pulled toward the glass then pulled into the top of the stove which has another chamber then out the chimney. It also doesn't have much of fresh air inlet. Usually they have a spin drift or something that can be opened up. This just has a lever you push to one side and it lets in a small amount of air and the air is fed in the top of the stove also.

It was given to me by a friend and I'm trying to figure out if its even worth hooking up.
 

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Thanks for your reply.

The two concerns I have is will this thing ever generate any real heat and how will I ever be able to open the door with out massive amounts of smoke belching out. I also wonder if it would need a damper or not. Can't imagine it would ever draw enough draft to need to be dampered down.

I searched on line looking for a manual ( us stove company ) but one doesn't see to exists.

Its going in a shop with a concrete floor so it won't be in my house. I was wondering how it would perform if I took the fire brick out of the top of the stove so it would draft directly to the chimney then took the glass out of the front of the stove and replaced it with plat metal with a couple of spin drafts in it?

BTW I would never burn this in a building where I or someone lives. Like I said its in a shop on a concrete floor where the alternative would be a barrel stove.
 
I would use it just like it is. It should put off pretty good heat and as long as chimney is high enough and no damper or damper all the way open while loading with door open it shouldn't smoke you out. Let us know how it goes


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Thanks for your reply.

The two concerns I have is will this thing ever generate any real heat and how will I ever be able to open the door with out massive amounts of smoke belching out. I also wonder if it would need a damper or not. Can't imagine it would ever draw enough draft to need to be dampered down.

I searched on line looking for a manual ( us stove company ) but one doesn't see to exists.

Its going in a shop with a concrete floor so it won't be in my house. I was wondering how it would perform if I took the fire brick out of the top of the stove so it would draft directly to the chimney then took the glass out of the front of the stove and replaced it with plat metal with a couple of spin drafts in it?

BTW I would never burn this in a building where I or someone lives. Like I said its in a shop on a concrete floor where the alternative would be a barrel stove.

Those internal baffles and where the air intake gets directed are precisely what makes more modern stoves work more efficiently. Keeping the unburnt gases inside longer where they get a chance to burn and make heat is why they are designed this way. I wouldn't sweat it, burn dry wood and you will be good to go. Ashley is a known old time decent stove company. I'd be thrilled for a local pickup freebie like that.
 
1st:Get rid of the grate,it doesen't belong in there!2nd: leave the fire brick in the top of the stove!
Some of the draft air goes in at the front base of the fire.The rest goes to the top of the fire box through ducts in the wall of the stove and comes out at the top of the box,probably just below the upper fire brick.The upper air is what burns off the bad stuff before it goes up the stack.
To keep smoke from coming out of the door when adding wood,fully close the draft,crack the door for a few seconds and load.
 
I'm new to this site but also have a problem with my Ashley NCA1. I've used several different wood stoves before and just bought a house that came with an Ashley NCA1. I know it works, since the previous owner had it going when I visited the house earlier, but several months later, I can't get it to draw correctly. I've cleaned the chimney down to the flue, the firebox, the air intake control panel, and as much as I'm able to reach above the air insulation lip that goes from the top of the door towards the back of the unit. Smoke continues to build up, and either suppresses the fire (door closed) or circulates into the room (door open). I think the problem is with the draw and not the intake. One problem could be the fiberglass insulation that is clamped by the air insulation panel, above the door. It sticks out visibly and could be the reason why the smoke doesn't flow correctly. Is anyone here familiar with this problem or the type of insulation that this stove should have?
 
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