Anyone ever needed a electric draft inducer?
- Thread starter scut207
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Excellent description and diagrams, thanks. My personal interpretation is that this is a classic installation where when the house is warm and the chimney is cold, the house provides a better draft than the chimney does; no house can be perfectly sealed. And this means that to prevent backdraft, a powered draft inducer in use until the chimney warms to a temperature above that of the house may well be the eventual only solution.
Let me guess that it makes no difference whether the wind is blowing or not.
Let me guess that it makes no difference whether the wind is blowing or not.
correct!
frenchy85
ArboristSite Operative
I didn’t read all the posts, so this may have been mentioned. I was experiencing the same thing as you. Next time you build a fire open the closest window or door(exterior) to your wood burner. Mine used to be the same way, even after getting a new flue built. Opening a window while building a fire has worked 100% of the time for me. YMMV.
tried and failed that test the other day which spawned the original post =/
I have a really tall masonry chimney (27') and my woodstove is in the basement. I back-drafted a number of times early on before I figured it out. Really cold day and the chimney will flow down/in every time. Smoke in the house, family w/asthma, setting off local and monitored alarms got really, REALLY old. Posted on it in the archives as well.
I tried various levels of the above including the heat gun, ceramic cube heater to a plumbers propane torch. Various degrees of quick combustible materials including balled newspaper and "accelerant of choice" can overcome it after using the above, but not always...
What will do the trick even in a polar vortex arctic air condition is using a propane tube heater for a few minutes in the pipe. I have a medium size one for occasional use in the detached garage/shop area.
FWIW I was wisely advised here to use SS which I explored and cost'ed out, but this works every time! Haven't had the issue in many years. Mine can handle a day or two before getting cold enough to back-draft again and only if it's severely cold. I do tend to run the WS 24x7 though. YRMV
edit - FYI I tried the window, paying attention to the wind, removed tall trees in the vicinity (for completely different reasons) but they all had no effect on my situation either
I tried various levels of the above including the heat gun, ceramic cube heater to a plumbers propane torch. Various degrees of quick combustible materials including balled newspaper and "accelerant of choice" can overcome it after using the above, but not always...
What will do the trick even in a polar vortex arctic air condition is using a propane tube heater for a few minutes in the pipe. I have a medium size one for occasional use in the detached garage/shop area.
FWIW I was wisely advised here to use SS which I explored and cost'ed out, but this works every time! Haven't had the issue in many years. Mine can handle a day or two before getting cold enough to back-draft again and only if it's severely cold. I do tend to run the WS 24x7 though. YRMV
edit - FYI I tried the window, paying attention to the wind, removed tall trees in the vicinity (for completely different reasons) but they all had no effect on my situation either
I'm told I have a draft issue but I'm not experiencing the back draft issues as described in this thread....I'm having a cold stove problem..stove top temp no higher than 350 degrees. I've got a woodstock soapstone hybrid installed in the basement with a super duravent insulated chimney system 21 feet tall. Fresh air pipe ran to the connection on the draft door at the rear of the stove. No smoke in the house but can't close the draft moe than 1/4 or it chokes fire out. House was built in 21-22 time frame. Was wondering if an inline draft inducer fan would correct problem of low stove temps?
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