Attaching Your Bar On The Mill

[burningwood]

I have the MKIII G776-36 inch mill, what is the proper way to install the bar on the mill? Should it be attached to the chainsaw or off?




bw

 

[john taliaferro]

I drilled the bar and tap threads in the mill ,makes chain swap easier . Wish i could post pic , think its a pop up blocker

 

[BobL]

Does it look like the lower of these two mills?

If so it clamps to the bar. But as JT says it does not take a lot of know how to bolt the bar to the mill and then you can change the chain without taking the saw out of the mill.

 

[820wards]

I have the MKIII G776-36 inch mill, what is the proper way to install the bar on the mill? Should it be attached to the chainsaw or off?
bw

Burningwood,

Here is how I drilled and tapped my friends Alaskan mill for mounting his bar. It makes it easier to change out chains in the field. Just drill and tap for a 5/16"-18 SAE NC. Use a letter 'F' drill if you have one. If you don't a 7/32" will work. Or if you are using a larger bar, I would suggest using a 3/8"-16 bolt/tap and use a 5/16" drill bit.

jerry-

Here is what it should look like. (3/8" bolt here)

 

[AaronB]

Could someone explain to me how bolting the bar to the mill allows you not to have to remove it to change the chain. I am just not seeing it, guess I am not sure how you get the chain off with the mill itself in the way, and I am guessing this allows you to keep the powerhead on as well?

 

[burningwood]

Could someone explain to me how bolting the bar to the mill allows you not to have to remove it to change the chain. I am just not seeing it, guess I am not sure how you get the chain off with the mill itself in the way, and I am guessing this allows you to keep the powerhead on as well?

AaronB, did you leave your bumper spikes on or take them off when using your mill?




BW

 

[gemniii]

I have the MKIII G776-36 inch mill, what is the proper way to install the bar on the mill? Should it be attached to the chainsaw or off?

bw

The normal beginner process is to slide the assembled saw/bar into the Alaskan and tighten it down.
But a lot depends on the type of saw clutch, inboard or outboard, where the chain tensioner is, if you want to readily take the bar off for something else, if you want to drill the bar, and how many saws and bars you have.
If you have an inboard clutch and side chain tensioner (like my Stihls) it's relatively easy to just take the powerhead (PH) off. So I'll fix my 42" bar in the alaskan, and if I need to use that saw with another bar I'll take off the PH.
With my JD CS62, an outboard clutch, and inside chain tensioner I usually take the bar and PH out together.
Note I don't usually use ripping chain for crosscutting or regular chain for ripping.

There's been a lot of threads here about drilling bars.

And if you only have 1 saw and 1 bar you'll probably be taking both out.

And I've been leaving my spikes on w/ my 42" bar.

 

[AaronB]

AaronB, did you leave your bumper spikes on or take them off when using your mill?




BW

There still on there when I use the Alaskan, I do have to take them off when I use it one the ProCut though.

 

[mtngun]

Could someone explain to me how bolting the bar to the mill allows you not to have to remove it to change the chain. I am just not seeing it, guess I am not sure how you get the chain off with the mill itself in the way, and I am guessing this allows you to keep the powerhead on as well?

If you bolt the bar to the mill, then the mill is no longer in the way.

 

[john taliaferro]

Before i had the bar,power head , chain , and mill to try and hold . Now the mill holds the bar so i put the chain on and only have to rassel the power head . I clamp the mill on edge to tailgate or work bench . Hope i didn't really confuse you it saves you from having to put the saw on the mill every time.