Attention Lakeside......

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CaseyForrest

I am NOT a tree freak.
. AS Supporting Member.
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I got that 460, needs a new P&C. Im thinking about going the way of the BB 460 P&C from Baileys.

My question is.....

What fully adjustable carb do I need to get to work with that P&C setup? I have the original carb, but it has the recessed limiters on it.

Would like to know what the options are.
 
Casey, I put a BB on my new 440. Been happy with it. I just took the limiter caps off works fine. Pm me if you want some help milling today. Reddog
 
The Walbro HD carb that came with the saw is all you need. If you run out of adjustment on the H end then you'll need to change the main jet from 0.7 to 0.71 or 0.72. It just screws in. The limiter caps need to stay in place, but just slice the lock tab off the side to make it easier to adjust. If you mess up the limiter caps getting them out, buy new caps - 50 cents each.
 
Lakeside53 said:
The Walbro HD carb that came with the saw is all you need. If you run out of adjustment on the H end then you'll need to change the main jet from 0.7 to 0.71 or 0.72. It just screws in. The limiter caps need to stay in place, but just slice the lock tab off the side to make it easier to adjust. If you mess up the limiter caps getting them out, buy new caps - 50 cents each.

I must first admit I know nothing about carbs. It looks like the limiters are recessed in the body, all thats visible is the tops of the red caps. Are you saying that those limiters can be pulled, and trim the stop off? It does look like someone already tried to get them out, maybe Ill take it to the dealer since its off the saw right now.
 
CaseyForrest said:
Are you saying that those limiters can be pulled, and trim the stop off? It does look like someone already tried to get them out, maybe Ill take it to the dealer since its off the saw right now.

Not to step on Andy's toes, but since he's not logged on...

Yep. You've just got to line up the the little tang on the limiter, with the slot in the carb body. Shine a flash light down in there, and and turn it until you see it, then either with the Stihl limiter removal tool, or a sheet metal screw (get the limiter tool if you have time to go visit your dealer, it works much better and won't trash you cap) thread it into the plastic, and pull it out. Trim off the tang witha razor blade, or however and put it back in. You're good to go.

Jeff
 
Reddog said:
Casey, I put a BB on my new 440. Been happy with it. I just took the limiter caps off works fine. Pm me if you want some help milling today. Reddog

How has that BB been holding up???

I tell you what......I was the good neighbor today, waited for the house across the street to end their open house, got oil changed and chains sharpened in the mean time. I set up my rails, get through the first cut, and it starts to rain.
 
CaseyForrest said:
How has that BB been holding up???

I tell you what......I was the good neighbor today, waited for the house across the street to end their open house, got oil changed and chains sharpened in the mean time. I set up my rails, get through the first cut, and it starts to rain.
Rained all day up north,sorry you got rained out.
 
CaseyForrest said:
I tell you what......I was the good neighbor today, waited for the house across the street to end their open house, got oil changed and chains sharpened in the mean time. I set up my rails, get through the first cut, and it starts to rain.


Casey a little rain keeps the dust down..
 
I only have a few tanks of fuel thru it. But so far i am real happy with it. First of Aug I have a job it will get a real good work out on. It has more torque than stock.

On the 440 the limiters do nothing. They do not hold anything in. So we removed em. Works fine, other than epa not sure what purpose they serve.
 
Reddog said:
On the 440 the limiters do nothing. They do not hold anything in. So we removed em. Works fine, other than epa not sure what purpose they serve.

They stop the carb screws from vibrating out. The carb screw do not have springs on them like the older designs.
 
I've had the one's with springs vibrate out. Its the O ring that creates the friction and seal. If you cut the tab off it is no diffrent than taking them off. With the tab gone they can just turn free. So you just need to pay attention to how your saw is running.
 
Reddog said:
I've had the one's with springs vibrate out. Its the O ring that creates the friction and seal. If you cut the tab off it is no diffrent than taking them off. With the tab gone they can just turn free. So you just need to pay attention to how your saw is running.


Under your theory saws with caps and tabs would just vibrate to the stopped rich positon. That doesn't happen.
 
Lakeside53 said:
Under your theory saws with caps and tabs would just vibrate to the stopped rich positon. That doesn't happen.

Lake, That is not what I think. I believe they do not move with or with out the limiter cap.
I am trying to understand your comment of just cutting the tab off. How is that diffrent than just removing them?

Thanks for the input. Reddog
 
Reddog said:
Lake, That is not what I think. I believe they do not move with or with out the limiter cap.
I am trying to understand your comment of just cutting the tab off. How is that diffrent than just removing them?

Thanks for the input. Reddog


The limiter caps in the HD carbs have a series of tiny detents (little spurs) cast into the plastic. It's these that hold the cap in (and make them a PITA to get out) and the caps hold the needle. The detents get damaged when the caps are removed and that's why you are supposed to replace them with new caps after each removal. The o-ring, IF positioned correctly (it stays/moves with the screw when you wind it out) give some friction, but is completely unreliable over time. If I has my way, I'd mount springs back on the needles (not so easy on these carbs) and dump the caps, but slicing the tab seems to work fine.

Sure, I've seen saws where the caps have been removed and they seem to stay in place, but more often I see them move. As an example only, this same type of carb is used on many other engines such as the BR420 series blowers. The caps get "left" out, the needles move rich and the blower runs really badly, so the user turns them back in, leans the blower out (you can't tune it like a saw ans when it seem to run best it's way too lean) and the piston melts.
 
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