Aux Oil Point

[BobL]

This is not my idea but I though you guys might like to see how some of the Aussie hardwoord boys increase the uptake of oil after the nose on their Lucas clabber. They just cut a groove into the bar as shown here. This allows the oil to flow more freely onto the drive links.
The also just use regular 30 grade motor oil as the lube.
The bars use a fixed roller nose and don't usually wear out before the bar does because they are never in the dirt.

 

[Fallguy1960]

Very interesting. Bet there will be some sparks flying this weekend.

 

[groundup]

You add bar lube to the tip when?

 

[john taliaferro]

You add bar lube to the tip when?

well i use peanut oil as soon as the saw starts so as to get chain soaked good before start of the cut . I got some 1/8'' carbide end mills i will be using soon .

 

[BobL]

You add bar lube to the tip when?

When a chain saw is used on an alaskan style chain saw mill.
I have these auxiliary oilers on all three of my alaskan mills.

 

[Boon]

Would this work on an Alaskan and wouldn't it be better to cut the groove horizontally to the bar instead of vertically?

Alaskan milling at an angle would see the oil traveling forward, perhaps off the chain or missing the groove. I have also gotten rid of by constantly blocking oiler and there is a gap between the oiler tube outlet and the bar so I can see the flow rate, the oil trail is touchy between the tube and the bar....wind, angle, vibration. Don't know much about a Lucas but from what I have seen they mill on flat ground

And it being so close to the sprocket wouldn't alot of the oil be spun off before traveling down the bar?

Plus the cut infringes on the top of the groove for the bar, when the chain passes over no doubt it would hit that front edge of the groove causing wear.

Thinking about this method of oiling would it not be better to cut a horizontal groove so that 1/2 or 1/4 of the cut hits the bottom on the bar groove and drill either end of the groove to stop fracture travel.....if that is kind of clear. This way the chain would not be hitting on the vertical cut, oil would fill the groove and not be fighting the incline of milling at an angle.

 

[FISH BAIT]

Thats a neat trick. I have wondered how much oil actualy gets down into the bar groove. I always run just einough oil to have a small puddle on the bar for the chain to run against. That would work great with my aux oiler setup.

FB

 

[beachcomber]

I like that idea, but seems to me a hole would be better as it wouldn't compromise the rail

 

[BobL]

Would this work on an Alaskan and wouldn't it be better to cut the groove horizontally to the bar instead of vertically?
Alaskan milling at an angle would see the oil traveling forward, perhaps off the chain or missing the groove. I have also gotten rid of by constantly blocking oiler and there is a gap between the oiler tube outlet and the bar so I can see the flow rate, the oil trail is touchy between the tube and the bar....wind, angle, vibration. Don't know much about a Lucas but from what I have seen they mill on flat ground.

I think you are just looking at it the wrong way around
Milling with the log on an angle will help the oil run down the cut groove into the bottom of the rail

And it being so close to the sprocket wouldn't alot of the oil be spun off before traveling down the bar?

The gap is on the side after the chain has gone around the sprocket.

Regarding

Plus the cut infringes on the top of the groove for the bar, when the chain passes over no doubt it would hit that front edge of the groove causing wear.
Thinking about this method of oiling would it not be better to cut a horizontal groove so that 1/2 or 1/4 of the cut hits the bottom on the bar groove and drill either end of the groove to stop fracture travel.....if that is kind of clear. This way the chain would not be hitting on the vertical cut, oil would fill the groove and not be fighting the incline of milling at an angle.

AND

I like that idea, but seems to me a hole would be better as it wouldn't compromise the rail

There's no problem with compromising a rail. Lots of bars have replaceable noses with gaps in between the nose and the bar and even when under pressure they don't usually wear any more around the gap than they otherwise would. Also think about what happens at the drive sprocket and double ender bars where the chain rides free in the air and then has to find its way back onto rails.

If a bar has a replaceable nose sprocket and the sprocket can be removed, if you didn't want to actually cut a slot in the bar it would be easy to just open up the gap between bar and replaceable sprocket at either of the points marked in red.

 

[Boon]

Thanks for clearing that up BobL. I like the thought of using the gaps, thinking about horizontal grinding........ the bottom of the bar groove fills with saw dust and would also prove problems of its own....its bar grinding time