avoding overheating and cylinder toasting

[jrhannum]

I run a Huski 575 XP with long bar and ripping chain under a home-built “alaska” CSM to make 2-to- 3-inch slabs from oak and Bigleaf maple boles or cants up to 20 inches wide. These I air-dry for two years under tin “roof” before crafting bread-maker’s peels or rustic benches and tables. I have carelessly overheated and toasted two sets of cylinder/pistons running 50/1 Husqvarna 2-stroke oil and regular E10 fuel. This time I’m trying the $100 not-OEM China-made top end replacements and will run 40/1 good oil with the highest-octane fresh E10 I can find. Will keep the chain sharpened after each slab-cut, set the hi needle on the rich side, and try to watch out for excessive heat –allow my 72-year-old body to rest while the saw cools down. I will switch to a new chisel-cut chain to limb and buck-for-firewood a recently-fallen Live Oak which looks to have one 12-ft straight bole which I will quarter-saw for more slab-crafting.
Anyone have tips for preserving my latest top end?

 

[splitpost]

You pretty much answered your own Question

 

[betterbuilt]

I'm no expert. I've toasted a few top ends and they all were cause by something other then over heating. I'd would be pressure/vac testing and changing all the soft lines and filters. I'd be sure all the bearing are still good.

I burnt up another 660 yesterday and I'm going through all the stuff I posted above before I put it back together.

 

[scor440]

E10 is kinda hot to.That doesnt help.