Kawasaki 23HP Twin Overheating

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Yes the fuel pump is operated on the same principal as the fuel pump in a saw carb. Should have 3 lines on it, fuel in, fuel out, and the pulse line. Usually held on by 2 bolts.
From your parts list, it doesn't appear that a oil cooler was an option, so one less thing to worry about. Usually there's an adapter plate between the engine block and oil fikter with short lines going to a radiator looking cooler, or a finned aluminum heat sink looking type cooler. The lower hp v twins didn't have them.
Did you see a oil high temp sensor switch in the IPL? Some people have mentioned one, but I don't see it.
 
Use to work at a JD dealership here down under.
Have seen mowers that clog the pick up in the tank with grass.
Mower stops or surges.
Once stopped for a while and the vacuum in the line let's go grass will drop back out and mower will start again till it picks it up again.
Not sure if this can happen if you have duel tanks.
So can it puck up fuel from either tank?
 
Use to work at a JD dealership here down under.
Have seen mowers that clog the pick up in the tank with grass.
Mower stops or surges.
Once stopped for a while and the vacuum in the line let's go grass will drop back out and mower will start again till it picks it up again.
Not sure if this can happen if you have duel tanks.
So can it puck up fuel from either tank?
Good idea, I'll check today.

Edit: Oh wait, I wasn't thinking. These tanks have bottom fittings and an external fuel filter, which I've changed. I'll check tanks though in case grass got in and is plugging the hole.
 
Got to the mower today. I took off the top cover and the two side shrouds (PITA) and found more areas that needed cleaning. Took a couple of hours to get it as clean as I could. Replaced the fuel line from the shut off to the carb and a new larger fuel filter. The last section of fuel line at the carb was a PITA. I had to remove the manifold from the cylinders and the carb. The last fitting was buried.

I also replaced the spark plugs. The old ones didn't look too bad, maybe the posts were a little rounded off at one side.
IMG_3013.JPG
These were NGK BPR5ES gapped at 0.035". Somewhere I saw the proper ones for this engine (Kawasaki FH680V-BS01-01) were NGK BPR4ES gapped at 0.75" (Misprint? 0.075" .... kind of large). So the BPR4ES is what I got. I gapped them at 0.035". Any idea the difference? Which is correct?

I started to put everything back together, but the bottom holes on the shrouds were a PITA. My hands were getting numb and I couldn't line up the holes. I'll finish up tomorrow. IF it starts (never sure about anything I work on - lol) I'll be mowing next week to see if it cuts out. New air filter goes on too.

Lastly, it has a selenoid mounted to the carb (IPL Sec B10). Not sure what that's for. Could that be overheating?
 

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  • Kawasaki FH680V-A-B-CS01-Parts List.pdf
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These were NGK BPR5ES gapped at 0.035". Somewhere I saw the proper ones for this engine (Kawasaki FH680V-BS01-01) were NGK BPR4ES gapped at 0.75" (Misprint? 0.075" .... kind of large). So the BPR4ES is what I got. I gapped them at 0.035". Any idea the difference? Which is correct?

I dunno what's correct, but 0.75mm is approximately .030 inch.
 
Well $hit! Yesterday I put on new fuel line, pump and plugs. Closed it up today. Tried starting it, and it started right up. I moved it to the yard on half throttle and it still surged despite the new plugs. Shifted to full throttle while setting still and it ran rough a few seconds and then died. I could not restart it. There was gas in the fuel filter and I added even more gas to the tank thinking it was empty. Still it wouldn't start. Makes me wish I wouldn't have messed with it.

Could the spark plugs being gapped at 0.035" instead of 0.030" cause it not to start?

This is enough to make a guy start to drink in the morning.
 
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