bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Yeah no need to have too sharp of an axe. Mine has all kinds of chips in it from choppin barb wire, the occasional saw chain, and such. It still chops when I get pinched.
Axes for wedging
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Michaelmj11
ArboristSite Operative
I hope I am not intruding, but I recently got some woods training from a retired forester/logger here in MS, and he pulled out a Council axe to drive his wedges, and I wanted to look into getting something similar, but wondered about getting some other people's take(s) on styles and weights
Do you guys recommend staying away from axes with heads like the Hudson Bay, I was liking the idea of welding some metal onto the back of the axe. Or are the axe heads that themselves resemble a wedge what you prefer?
Things shaped like this one:
Those Husky axes come with a Swedish head made by Gränsfors. They make great and sharp heads for carving. Although in the brush you'll end up cutting yourself and your caparison. You might want to give it a tad of a grinder touch before you go. Carbon steel will also get rusty. I'm guessing the stains won't be an issue for a cutter.
Gränsfors makes great falling axe heads as well. Husky seems to have them set on their own handle.
And why get a 5lb axe head, not something lighter?
Council raft pattern is pretty slick, whether you go all out and get the 5# or the 3.5 or 4 is up to you.
Nice fat square poll on em good for whacking wedges. American made, and they won't cost the second mortgage... granted not cheap but not insane either.
Normally I drag around my 3.5 ish Craftsman (antique) mostly cause I like it a lot. And it does a good enough job of beating wedges, but I'm also a large dude with lots of extra leverage to swing an axe with. Also since its recent reforging the poll is nice and square again, and its no longer squished... Don't use yer axe as a jack plate...
But if I know I'm going to be up against a monster the 5# council comes out for some fresh air and a little bit of wedge melting.
Nice fat square poll on em good for whacking wedges. American made, and they won't cost the second mortgage... granted not cheap but not insane either.
Normally I drag around my 3.5 ish Craftsman (antique) mostly cause I like it a lot. And it does a good enough job of beating wedges, but I'm also a large dude with lots of extra leverage to swing an axe with. Also since its recent reforging the poll is nice and square again, and its no longer squished... Don't use yer axe as a jack plate...
But if I know I'm going to be up against a monster the 5# council comes out for some fresh air and a little bit of wedge melting.
Michaelmj11
ArboristSite Operative
So do you guys like the Veritas or whatever Council's fancy smancy steel is, or just the regular Council Tool's?
Michaelmj11
ArboristSite Operative
Velvicut
council uses a good high carbon steel, not sure on specifics but it holds an edge well, and puts up with abuse. Probably "drop forged" or whatever (heated and pressed in dies)
the collins and other china axes I've used have been cast steel on a good day.
the collins and other china axes I've used have been cast steel on a good day.
Samlock
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's like getting spanked for doing somethin naughty. You'll thank yourself later for dragging around a two extra pounds.
Michaelmj11
ArboristSite Operative
I was thinking, of this one
http://www.wetterlings.com/bushman-axe-by-les-stroud/
Especially since it does Not have an axe handle, notice how the piece past the poll/head is completely rounded not wedge shaped. I think that is a sledge hammer handle, but you get the ability to chop yourself out of a pinch.... a problem I've .... NEVER had before.
But I was thinking of having a tad more metal welded to the poll/hammer to make it a little heavier, and more surface area to contact the wedge. Are there any other axes like this, or rather have you seen any others like this? (Maybe at a lower price?)
Interesting design, but I noticed the total wgt is only 1 kg (2.2#) including the handle... Maybe nice for carrying in a backpack, but not heavy enough for pounding wedges IMHO.
you can get a hatchet at the hardware store that would do the same as that thing.
only 1 kilo is what 1.4 pounds or something and the head is way to small, all you would end up doing is mushrooming the wedges, not to mention finding a replacement handle is next to impossible.
Now if you wanted to build a shanty and use it to chop saplings and beat the occasional nail its the tool of choice.
only 1 kilo is what 1.4 pounds or something and the head is way to small, all you would end up doing is mushrooming the wedges, not to mention finding a replacement handle is next to impossible.
Now if you wanted to build a shanty and use it to chop saplings and beat the occasional nail its the tool of choice.
Michaelmj11
ArboristSite Operative
That is why I was thinking of having more metal welded onto the hammer (but like I said I'd rather find a less pricey manufacturer)........ that and the wedge mushrooming
council makes a 3.5 pounder not to heavy to drag around but big enough to be effective, a good shape for wedge driving and made from qualitiy steel.
and it won't cost as much as a new husky.
and it won't cost as much as a new husky.
Wood handle is the only way to go, I needed an Axe and at one point I could get 3 1/2 Lb at Canadian tire and cut them down to 22" giving me a straight handle. Then just tape the end slightly. Last year I bought a composite/ fiberglass one as that's all I could find with the right head over 22". What a piece of garbage. Hard on the hands creating low force. I was able to find what I wanted in a saw shop close to the job and only had to use it two days. Welding a couple small plates on sure makes a difference, just that little bit and it is much easier on wedges. Splitting them can be an issue in cold environments. Narrow axe heads can be too much force to one small area on cold days. Widen the head and problem solved. Narrow axe heads are long and wide ones are short so costom gives you the best of both worlds from a stock 3.5 lb
Those 5lb are beautiful wedge melters and would be nice for a back up at a heli pad or the edge of your Quarter but that's all.
Those 5lb are beautiful wedge melters and would be nice for a back up at a heli pad or the edge of your Quarter but that's all.
That is nice Falling axe^^^ ,that handle is like swinging a baseball back not an upsidedown axe. Nice short solid cutter unlike the Eastwing or ox head style and won't have the tendency to flop to the side on those not so square hits or square hits for that matter. Don't see them here, I'm assuming that's a five pictured above? They make a 3.5 & 4 lb you say?Council "Miners Axe,", 3.5-4# Dayton or Jersey head, 20-26" straight handle. That will do us. Good price and made in America, too.
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
meh, i use a 5lb rafting axe.......if i need to wedge, i need to wedge not nudge. my advice is to find an old good head and re haft a nice straight hickory handle on it. cut off at length you like. way cheaper and a better axe.
Your axe is too wide, where is the skill in that? Lol j/K
I like that axe a lot. Good taste with the handle type and style. I would only like to own a 5 lb melter and polish it..but not on my wedges.. Lol
4 lb would be nice if I could find the right looking head.
Moreover treeslayer man.
How often or long do you keep it on your back through out the day climbing hills.
Other issues is steep ground and belled trunks means a sideways swing and that gets hard, loosing speed and accuracy in a hurry when the extra weigh is extended. It's not an everyday axe for us.
How often or long do you keep it on your back through out the day climbing hills.
Other issues is steep ground and belled trunks means a sideways swing and that gets hard, loosing speed and accuracy in a hurry when the extra weigh is extended. It's not an everyday axe for us.
I think it's 4#.
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