Band Saw blade speed, teeth, thickness etc.

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radroy92

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Hi again,

I'm looking at pulleys at surplus center. I had been told that band saw blades run 3000-5000 ft/min. So I'm shooting at 3000 to 4000 ft/min. What are you guys running?

Also how many teeth per inch, type of teeth, blade thickness and width???? And what size engine?

Also, also I see some guys running some sort of liquid lubricant on the blade from a gravity feed.

Thanks, Roy
 
What are you guys running?
As close to 5000 as I can keep it.

Also how many teeth per inch
I think 1.1 teeth per inch, they're 7/8" tooth spacing.

type of teeth
Type of teeth... I dunno! Steel? They're from Lenox. Tried some fancy ones, didn't see much difference in cutting ability or longevity.

blade thickness and width????
.042" thickness, 1 1/4" width.

And what size engine?
13 HP engine w/ centrifugal clutch.

Also, also I see some guys running some sort of liquid lubricant on the blade from a gravity feed.
Gravity fed water to the blade thru 2 valves. One valve sets the flow rate while the next one downstream sets the on or off. In winter or if cutting something sappy, I run a little dish soap in the water. The water cools the blade as well as lubricates it.

That help?
 
Last edited:
THat was helpful

As close to 5000 as I can keep it.


I think 1.1 teeth per inch, they're 7/8" tooth spacing.


Type of teeth... I dunno! Steel? They're from Lenox. Tried some fancy ones, didn't see much difference in cutting ability or longevity.


.042" thickness, 1 1/4" width.


13 HP engine w/ centrifugal clutch.


Gravity fed water to the blade thru 2 valves. One valve sets the flow rate while the next one downstream sets the on or off. In winter or if cutting something sappy, I run a little dish soap in the water. The water cools the blade as well as lubricates it.

That help?

Yes!! I can get a smaller pulley for the drive wheel and save a few $$. I was going to use a belt tightener as the clutch. If I were to run a less wide blade say 1" would I be able to use a smaller engine? By type of teeth I meant the shape of the tooth.

Thanks for the info!!!!!!!! ;-)))

Roy
 
I was going to use a belt tightener as the clutch.
I've seen that done on some mills and it seems to work, but every time I try to do it on something I've built I can never get enough 'looseness' in the belt to make whatever it runs come to a complete stop. I mean, if I just have a belt draped over the drive pulley with 3" of slack in it, the friction still being created makes it move.

Another thing I've seen done is that instead of using a belt tensioner, some will make the motor itself slide back and forth to tighten the belt. I *THINK* Norwood does this but I'm not sure.

If I were to run a less wide blade say 1" would I be able to use a smaller engine?
In theory, yes. But I've heard the smaller blades tend to wander in the cut easier too. Never tried it myself. When I built my mill, I wanted things to work correctly the first time and didn't want to be experimenting with different methods for weeks on end. That's why I bought a set of tried and true plans and just pretty much stuck to them. Now that I have more time, I'm doing a bit of experimenting, but nothing major. Yet. :laugh:

By type of teeth I meant the shape of the tooth.
The best answer I can give you is it looks like a bandsaw mill tooth. I don't know how many, (if any), different designs there are for sawmill blades. I CAN tell you that the front of the tooth is pitched forward about 10 degrees, but that's about it.
 
Hook angle?

What difference does the hook angle make on band blades? I read 4 degree is better for knotty wood rather than 7 or 10 degree. Can someone explain how this works?

Thanks,

Roy
 
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