That decision entirely rests with the owner in my view. Too much or too little is entirely a personal decision. What I said and maintain is a flat bar surface will never present the cutting tooth in an aggressive cutting posture. How much is entirely dependent on the end user, the capability of the motor as well as the number of cutters on a loop and the sharpening technique. I think we all know that square ground chain is more aggressive than skip tooth chipper or even full tooth chipper. Regardless of what the rock is, a flat bar never presents a cutting tooth at the proper cut position to cut efficiently and it don't matter how the depth gages are set either.
Not something I get overly concerned about as I use my saws infrequently anyway. The 'rock' comes into play with serious use and hours on any chainsaw. Like I stated, the only bar I have ground is the original bar on my ancient 028. The rest are fine. If I do observe a 'burr' developing on the outside edge of the rails, I remove it with a flat ******* cut file and carry on. Kind of like how I prefer a grease port in the nose of my sprocket nosed bars. I always grease them prior to using them with high quality bearing grease. Just my personal preference.
Again, the issue arises when the drive tangs contact the bottom of the rail. Once that happens, it's time for a new bar.
Not something I get overly concerned about as I use my saws infrequently anyway. The 'rock' comes into play with serious use and hours on any chainsaw. Like I stated, the only bar I have ground is the original bar on my ancient 028. The rest are fine. If I do observe a 'burr' developing on the outside edge of the rails, I remove it with a flat ******* cut file and carry on. Kind of like how I prefer a grease port in the nose of my sprocket nosed bars. I always grease them prior to using them with high quality bearing grease. Just my personal preference.
Again, the issue arises when the drive tangs contact the bottom of the rail. Once that happens, it's time for a new bar.
