I think it's the poor quality pictures but they seem to me to be sharp and not rounded ..Im gonna try it and see how it cuts before I do anymore filling .
If it isn't cutting well I'll file it back and see what happens.
Thanks for the help !
Ernie
Bar discoloration normal
- Thread starter ErnieG
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If it isn't cutting well I'll file it back and see what happens.
Thanks for the help !
Ernie
All good, if its a reflection, then its ok, but if the OP looks at the real tooth, and it is indeed rounded as it appears in the photo, then he needs to remove that damage as indicated.
good pick up of the picture, I missed that and thought it was the tooth.
Yep, my apologies if its just a reflection as previously pointed out, but have a look at the real chain, and if its ok, and not rounded off, then go over the rakers and call it good, if its rounded off as I thought it was in the picture, you know what you need to do.
Let us know how it goes.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
It will likely cut better but it still ain't right. The top plate is not straight and the angle may not be right. The 372 is a powerful saw and you are beating on it by trying to cut with a dull chain. A dull chain trumps horsepower every time!
Rather than beating yourself up trying to freehand file get and learn to use one of these guides first:
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/saw-chain-sharpening-kit,-7-32"/p/543429
This is the right kit assuming that you are using standard 3/8" chain on your 372.
@ErnieG Looks like you are learning and getting your chain back in shape. Everyone here giving great advice!!!
A semi chisel chain is more forgiving as the working corner does not come to a sharp point. Consider having a couple of these chains as they are quicker to sharpen and last longer being more forgiving on what you cut.
Once you knock off the sharp point on a chisel chain you are done. You and your equipment suffers greatly.
A semi chisel chain is more forgiving as the working corner does not come to a sharp point. Consider having a couple of these chains as they are quicker to sharpen and last longer being more forgiving on what you cut.
Once you knock off the sharp point on a chisel chain you are done. You and your equipment suffers greatly.
thenne1713
ArboristSite Guru
A BAR GETS Spots MUCH HOTTER WHEN CUTTING NARROW WOOD, e.g. limbing, or ripping narrow, can even cause fast bar wear in those spots. BEST practice is let the weight of saw provide pressure vs you pushing
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Looks like burned on pitch/wood... try using IPA to clean it up? I get the same on the cutting side of my Tsumura but it cleans off.
I'm going with burnt pitch. My bars look worse than that with only a few cuts in Douglas fir. Red oak isn't as bad, but given your chain was very dull I am not surprised it did that.
Semi chisel chain wouldn't fair to well either with the level of damage to the working corner that chain showed.
It does help in dirty wood, but so does using the correct technique for cutting dirty wood. IE bore cut in and then cut such that your nut dragging dirt through the cut.
To me sharpening semi chisel is harder to get right than chisel as well, but that just might be my problem.
fishdrivel
ArboristSite Operative
I have found that when your file is cutting to low it doesn't sharpen the hook.
I'm sure there are other techniques but I rotate the file during each stroke.
For me, that keeps the file on track.
To summarize, The sharpening is less than ideal and with old hard oak, that is burning the ops bar.
As someone else said, once you stray from proper hook, it is a lot of work fixing the hooks.
The hooks are not consistent either.
Cutting old oak you get a lot of sawdust with the chips. This can "clog" the bar Take a putty knife and clean it - all.
A flat mill file will reove the burr. Don't get rambunctious.
