Barber chair theory.

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"Hmmm, I wonder if a Humboldt changes things?
Jeff "


You can do a humboldt with a plunge back-cut.
I think a humboldt undercut would make things better.

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The width and angle/elevation of the face cut has little or no effect on how the tree falls, at least until the gap closes. A humbolt is nothing more than a regular face cut pointing downward. It has a big affect on saving timber (it's primary purpose), but it also predisposes the falling tree to jump forward off the stump when it closes the gap and breaks the hinge.

Until the gap closes, the only elements to the face cut that influence whether you get a barber chair are the depth of cut and the direction it is pointed relative to the lean (or other side-force).
 
sorry

I did not mean to appear to be spamming

this was in answer to another thread were a poster (pdlqsaid there were only two types of tree that would not baber chair " a shrub with a crane pulling on it and ...."

my intent was a humours reply to that remark.

I have never cut a bottle tree but I would treat it like a I do a palm tree and do a bore cut and then the two wings
 
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this was in answer to another thread were a poster (pdlqsaid there were only two types of tree that would not baber chair " a shrub with a crane pulling on it and ...."

my intent was a humours reply to that remark.

I have never cut a bottle tree but I would treat it like a I do a palm tree and do a bore cut and then the two wings

No I didn't! I only provided two examples of trees that were probably BC-proof. There are probably lots of trees even more resistant to BC than the two I submitted. Most of them are thorny, too.

That bottle-tree looks like an excellent candidate, although I have never seen one before. That's a real interesting looking tree. I presume it survives in semi-arid parts of the world?

BTW: a "hedge" tree is NOT a shrub. They are one of the toughest trees that grows in the midwest USA. They are seldom ever broken in a windstorm or ice storm, and they are incredibly resistant to decay. Their wood is one of the very best for firewood because of the very high density. Very gnarly and twisted, they were widely planted in long rows across the midwest following the dustbowl to help deter soil erosion. They became a common fixture in suburban backyards that were formed when home subdivisions invaded the farmers fields surrounded with the Osage Orange, their proper name. Maclura pomifera: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maclura_pomifera

We don't really like working on these trees, either, because you can never get a branch straight enough to feed into a chipper without a big struggle. It isn't unusual to tie a rope to a branch so that the groundies can pull it out of the tree, either. They are very difficult to work with.
 
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Barber chair vs Slab out

Used to be able to get a shave and a hair cut for two bits (25 cents) and this is how it worked. You sit in the chair and the barber pumps on this foot pedal to raise the chair about a foot or two. Then trips a lever and the back of the chair tips back like a recliner and feet go up and you are now in a position for barber to shave. Happens kinda quick and can be a surprise if not warned. Kinda like drifting off to sleep and feel like falling and you jerk.

Slab wood is the term given to pieces of log (usually round on one side) when milling lumber. It is the undesireable byproduct of a milling operation and goes for pulp or firewood, usually worth much less than the boards are.

Cutting the tensioned strap from the inside out using the top of the bar can cause chain to jump off the bar. Using bottom of bar may still cause enough side force on chain to spread bar groove. Cutting from outside and a couple inches below back cut and angled up a bit eliminates that side tension. If saw gets stuck, it will stay on the stump, not drop and roll with the log.
 

Good example, especially for a smaller tree.

Lots of things done wrong there, including shallow face cut (and a conventional face at that), cutting too deep into the far side of the hinge, as opposed to evenly until closer to the end for direction, and standing by that stump for too long while WATCHING it begin to chair.

That person got lucky it took so long to chair and break out. I've seen it happen in an instant.
 
Good example, especially for a smaller tree.

Lots of things done wrong there, including shallow face cut (and a conventional face at that), cutting too deep into the far side of the hinge, as opposed to evenly until closer to the end for direction, and standing by that stump for too long while WATCHING it begin to chair.

That person got lucky it took so long to chair and break out. I've seen it happen in an instant.
Ummh, yeah, they slow mo ed the video for effect...
 
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