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most can be safely done at cross cut saw speeds, or even with a crosscut. Major exceptions are bore cuts, Of course they require a chain saw, but never a fast cutting one.

If I were to do the tree the OP described with a cross cut, I would start on the lean side cut in until the kerf started to close, tap in a small wedge on either side just behind the back of the saw then complete the cut out the back. The tree is going to go with the lean so as long as you don't get under it there is no way it can get on you. On a big tree the holding wood at the back could snap early and possibly feed you your saw.


Just think of this.......the forum ya started your advice in was the Home owner forum where folks come and ask advice from pro's and skilled wood cutters/loggers/fallers who know better than to do the dumb things you suggest .........however do bear in ya mind that their are folks who come in looking for advice .......we do try and help if we can.....sometimes we won't say much if the situation either ain't clear or poss a bit beyond mere explanation in words. However their are newbies and folks that will read these forums who don't know better and cause they see a senior member posting they may take what ya say on board .......before the rest of us can kinda tell them not to. It ain't cool bro it really ain't.


you either did go to the Gump school of falling or ya nuts or ya trolling looking to start arguments.

either way if ya are looking for arguments .........don't go posting things that'll get folks hurt,have a bit more respect
 
So is this the proper way to fell by bore cut?

Large Heavy Leaning Tree Fell - YouTube

Look at RandyMac's post bro that the way to go


The vid you watched is how they teach in the UK it GOL style and opinions do vary on that some lol


Boring is a toll in the bag and when used properly it good ......however well it not the way I'd choose.


if ya do cut that style don't go releasing the strap with a slopping cut .......you stand a chance of losing ya saw ......and you depending how attached to it ya are......either way not cool.



you guys in here know all about saws performance and how they cut and what ya need to do to them (bar,chain etc) to get what ya need.....ya don't need a faller to tell ya that lol........however ya do need a fast cutting saw and chain when ya working on leaners imo.
 
So is this the proper way to fell by bore cut?

Large Heavy Leaning Tree Fell - YouTube

Not really. His idea was alright but the way he went about it was dangerous and showed that he hadn't done leaners very much.

He spent too much time screwing around with his cuts. When he cut the face he was under the lean for way too long and he didn't really get enough face to make it worthwhile.

His bore cut was okay but a better saw, a longer bar, and a decent chain would have made it safer. Again...way too long in the cut.

I don't know why, after he bored it, that he walked away from the tree. That's just asking for it to 'chair.

If you're bore cutting a leaner or using any other cut, like the Coos Bay, you want to trip the back as soon as you can. Make your trip cut straight, not angled like the guy in the video. That was just asking for trouble. And, again, he took way too much time and put himself in harms way for no good purpose.

I'm not saying that you should ram and jam and saw like a maniac but once you've begun a leaner you have to commit to it and make your cuts as quickly as you safely can. Figure out your cuts and how you'll match them before you start.

Stay out from under the lean when you're facing it up. Look up every once in awhile. Under a lean is usually where the widow makers will come down on you.
Make your bore cut or your Coos Bay as smoothly and quickly as you can...and stay out of the area directly behind the tree.
When you back the tree up saw it as quickly as you can. Watch the top and watch the kerf and listen for the holding wood to start talking. And again, look up.
If you're not cutting for scale get away from the tree as soon as you can when it starts to go.. If the tree is for firewood you don't care if it doesn't save out.
After it falls don't be in any big hurry to start bucking. If the tree you fell brushed other trees on the way down make sure that no widowmakers were knocked loose. Again, look up.
 
Not really. His idea was alright but the way he went about it was dangerous and showed that he hadn't done leaners very much.

He spent too much time screwing around with his cuts. When he cut the face he was under the lean for way too long and he didn't really get enough face to make it worthwhile.

His bore cut was okay but a better saw, a longer bar, and a decent chain would have made it safer. Again...way too long in the cut.

I don't know why, after he bored it, that he walked away from the tree. That's just asking for it to 'chair.

If you're bore cutting a leaner or using any other cut, like the Coos Bay, you want to trip the back as soon as you can. Make your trip cut straight, not angled like the guy in the video. That was just asking for trouble. And, again, he took way too much time and put himself in harms way for no good purpose.

I'm not saying that you should ram and jam and saw like a maniac but once you've begun a leaner you have to commit to it and make your cuts as quickly as you safely can. Figure out your cuts and how you'll match them before you start.

Stay out from under the lean when you're facing it up. Look up every once in awhile. Under a lean is usually where the widow makers will come down on you.
Make your bore cut or your Coos Bay as smoothly and quickly as you can...and stay out of the area directly behind the tree.
When you back the tree up saw it as quickly as you can. Watch the top and watch the kerf and listen for the holding wood to start talking. And again, look up.
If you're not cutting for scale get away from the tree as soon as you can when it starts to go.. If the tree is for firewood you don't care if it doesn't save out.
After it falls don't be in any big hurry to start bucking. If the tree you fell brushed other trees on the way down make sure that no widowmakers were knocked loose. Again, look up.
One question.Should you commit to doing all your cuts from one side or the other?It seems like once you size up your cuts, escape route and have enough saw with a sharp chain the next thing would be to not switch sides!Knoch,plunge cut,back cut get gone all from the same side.Maybe leave your hinge a little fat on the away side to pull it a little?
 
Randymac and Gologit gave some of the best info. My suggestion if you don't have the experience and need to look on the internet to fall a tree your risking your life. You don't know who is giving you the info, a experienced grade; veneer faller or a 13 year old arm chair expert. CJ

Oh and Gologit's advise on looking up is priceless. I went to my bestfriends Dads funeral because of not doing this, he was crushed by a dead standing tree that the wind pushed back on him after hitting it with the tree he felled. I look up, all the time until the trees stop moving after a drop.
 
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Leaning tree gets cut down by chainsaw - YouTube

Found this video along with the one previously posted. OMG. There are at least a dozen mistakes or shortcomings in it.

For the education of us all, perhaps a pro hereabouts can view it and comment?

No, but thanks anyway Doc. I try to limit myself to one video critique a day. Any more than that and I tend to start yelling and banging my head on the keyboard and that upsets the dogs and irritates the wife.

The mistakes in that video were numerous and obvious...you guys have at it.
 
Randymac and Gologit gave some of the best info. My suggestion if you don't have the experience and need to look on the internet to fall a tree your risking your life. You don't know who is giving you the info, a experienced grade; veneer faller or a 13 year old arm chair expert. CJ

You can get bad advice anywhere,forum,barber shop,bar or on the job from the boss who ain't actually doing it.Sifting out the BS is a learned skill.At thirteen I could fell better than your average suburban chainsaw commando,but I still ain't a Pro ....37 years later.
 
One question.Should you commit to doing all your cuts from one side or the other?It seems like once you size up your cuts, escape route and have enough saw with a sharp chain the next thing would be to not switch sides!Knoch,plunge cut,back cut get gone all from the same side.Maybe leave your hinge a little fat on the away side to pull it a little?

There is no set rules to a fall! If I can stay on the "safe" side to my exit path I will but the size of the tree, the lean, widowmakers and so many other things come into play. YOU have to make it a safe fall. As far as a hinge on a bad leaner:dizzy:good luck with that. The wood left on each side will control the sideways shift but I don't try to steer a bad leaner, not worth my life. CJ
 
One question.Should you commit to doing all your cuts from one side or the other?It seems like once you size up your cuts, escape route and have enough saw with a sharp chain the next thing would be to not switch sides!Knoch,plunge cut,back cut get gone all from the same side.Maybe leave your hinge a little fat on the away side to pull it a little?

Yup...that's one of the advantages of the longer bar. If you can do everything from one side it seems to make the whole process run a little smoother. Some guys like to dance around the tree and it seems to work okay for them but it also wastes a lot of time and exposes you to more risk.
There might be times when stepping behind the tree is necessary, like putting in the side snips on a triangle Coos, but you can judge when that's safe by how much of the tree is already sawed up.

And you can steer a leaner, not very much but a little. Leaving a tapered hinge, especially if you're trying to roll the tree to favor a limb heavy side or a slight lean is a good trick.

And just another note on barber chairs. I know I harp on this a lot and some of you have heard it before. Tough :laugh: Don't ever think that a 'chair is always going to pop straight back. Most of them do but they can also slab off at an angle and when it happens nobody is fast enough to get out of the way. A 'chair can also run up the tree quite a ways and then break off and either come straight down or slab out and come at you on an angle.
If a tree 'chairs because of an internal defect, and a lot of them do, the standing part of the tree can come straight back at you or fold up in any direction. As it's falling it may hit other trees and dislodge widow makers but by then you should have put a good distance between you and tree. Never be ashamed to run.

And, for what it's worth, I was told all these things when I started working in the woods but I found out about them the hard way.;)
 
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Can't steer a hard leaner the other way with a hinge,all you get is a stump jump at best.But pitching it one way or the other a couple of degrees is doable.Also it's a safety factor.Cut a 40" Red Elm couple months ago.Figured I'd get it before DED killed it and it started to rain random death.Hillside tree,southern exposure,not a leaner but hillsides do to weird things to the grain(just watch one getting cut up on the mill).Tree went exactly where I wanted it.BUT,I left the away part of the hinge a little fat.Which means if I would have cut it straight it would have come more my way,how much we will never know.
 
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There's no such thing as an easy tree

Yup...that's one of the advantages of the longer bar. If you can do everything from one side it seems to make the whole process run a little smoother. Some guys like to dance around the tree and it seems to work okay for them but it also wastes a lot of time and exposes you to more risk.
There might be times when stepping behind the tree is necessary, like putting in the side snips on a triangle Coos, but you can judge when that's safe by how much of the tree is already sawed up.

And you can steer a leaner, not very much but a little. Leaving a tapered hinge, especially if you're trying to roll the tree to favor a limb heavy side or a slight lean is a good trick.

And just another note on barber chairs. I know I harp on this a lot and some of you have heard it before. Tough :laugh: Don't ever think that a 'chair is always going to pop straight back. Most of them do but they can also slab off at an angle and when it happens nobody is fast enough to get out of the way. A 'chair can also run up the tree quite a ways and then break off and either come straight down or slab out and come at you on an angle.
If a tree 'chairs because of an internal defect, and a lot of them do, the standing part of the tree can come straight back at you or fold up in any direction. As it's falling it may hit other trees and dislodge widow makers but by then you should have put a good distance between you and tree. Never be ashamed to run.

And, for what it's worth, I was told all these things when I started working in the woods but I found out about them the hard way.;)

Or at least, you can't approach it with that mindset. As far as chairs go, it's been beat to death, sometimes I hesitate to give advice because I feel like I'm ggiving permission for someone to try something out of their skill range. As the op saw, when a tree goes bad it goes bad so fast it's instant.
As far as volunteer groups go, after the Bastrop fire, and having to go in and clean up their messes, I can't help but say hold a bake sale or just send cash. I got to the point where I wouldn't work a site if there were volunteers on the next house over.
 
i think he walked away because he was spooked. as well he should have been with the skill leavel he was showing. and folks don't try and learn from a vid , having some one hands on show you is the best that i know of.
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this tree while not a leaner " wish i had more detailed pic's" chaired and folded back on it self, which had some one been there would not have been good. if you don't have the skill, buck up and let a pro do it. you only get lucky so many times. don't let your ego set you up for a fall.
 
Cody aka Tarzan Trees at work. No heavy leaners, but he does one back leaner which is called sattin' back in these parts. Hmmm..blue wedges are noticed and his distinct ring tone. Note how the trees he is falling through tend to whip around back and forth. He makes me nervous on the last one, but the fence was in the way and he definitely knows what he's doing. It's 19 minutes well worth watching.

[video=youtube_share;G5qmAD4c49E]http://youtu.be/G5qmAD4c49E[/video]
 
i think he walked away because he was spooked. as well he should have been with the skill leavel he was showing. and folks don't try and learn from a vid , having some one hands on show you is the best that i know of.
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this tree while not a leaner " wish i had more detailed pic's" chaired and folded back on it self, which had some one been there would not have been good. if you don't have the skill, buck up and let a pro do it. you only get lucky so many times. don't let your ego set you up for a fall.

the really spooky part of this pic is the way the slab is still on the stump and where the stem ended up. would not have wanted to be the one cuttin from that side. also noticed the stump was burned by the bar binding.
 
On such a small tree, with lean and letting it go with the lean, no notch is needed. Just bore in, cut toward the lean, leaving a small amount intact, then finish the cut out the back. The little left in the front will split down the stump when the tree goes over.

That is the way I do it. It works well.
 

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