basic beginner question

[kf_tree]

when climbing on a line with a spliced eye and useing a seperate line for a hitch, what kind of biners are you useing at the harness.

assuming you guys are still all climbing on manilla.

 

[kf_tree]

the manilla part was a pun, but i am serious about the origional question.

 

[okietreedude1]

Ive got dmm/wales biners. steel captive eye on the climbing line and a boa on the split tail.

I prefer these as the are easily opened in winter w/ heavy gloves. No need to try to feel a little ball like the petzls. down side is the pinlock. Not very far down though.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Steel locking snap here, mate.

 

[okietreedude1]

MB, I used to use those too. Have you seen the new aluminum snaps Ive got???? Item # FP8002.

http://www.okarboristsupply.com/climbing_aids.htm


They are light as Heck and are rated stonger than the steels!

 

[MasterBlaster]

Actually, I prefer the weight of steel.

Those look cool, though. I might snap one up, and give it a try.

 

[luke montelius]

tie in *******

most important is the wieght rating, and auto lock feture. then shape or one verses two, depending on your setup...
one is nice and simple w/ the split tale on the in side of the ******, it also works well if the ****** is "agmented"/ pear shaped

 

[BigJohn]

What kind of friction saver won't work with a spliced eye? I don't have a single problem you mentioned with any of spliced eye, biners or friction savers. I think Mike is suffering from OE, operator error.

Sure rideing bicycle is easier than flying a plane. But if I was going from Phl to Lax I would choose fly a plane rather then ride a bike. That would be faster and easier for me. But maybe for Mike since he is untrained and unlicensed to fly the bike would be better choice.

The equipment we use is dependent on our own skill level.

 

[BigJohn]

I am trying to insult here. You clearly are haveing a problem that I must have missed or you haven't with us. That is what this forum is about helping and sharing. As you have seen before in pics I posted I just attatch my eye in the gate of my captive eye snap from ISC.

As for the friction saver. 17? Wow! I have had quite a few in my time and retired or gave them away. I have stuck with the ones that work well. I use one that is nothing more than a small ring on one end and fixe on the other. I go through the fixe then through the small ring.

Like in your pic. How is the splice not going through the pulley a problem? That is a good thing to retrieve it.The one shown just seems a bit big.

As for the eye splice not going through a tight crotch that is just an oversight and you missing a step in setup. When installing a FS or just line it is best to just run the rope or FS through as though you were to uninstall it and see if it hangs up. If so chose a different crotch or maybe use an adjustable FS like a rope guide.

Dan can you post a pic up here for my dear friend Mike who I am trying to help and not insult of the FS I am currently useing showing how it works? Thank you.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Dang Mike, you've got 17, and I have zero.

:alien:

 

[BigJohn]

Here's a thought maybe you can retire a few of those to become a false crotch for light rigging. What do I know about light rigging?

 

[NebClimber]

I use a spliced eye on my climbing line, but I never girth-hitch the caribiner to it. I just clip right into the eye.

I used to use a girth hitch, but it just seemed like a waste of time. Am I supposed to use a girth hitch? If so, why?

Steven

 

[okietreedude1]

the greatest advantage to girth hitching to a biner is to eliminate the possibility of cross loading the biner. the girth hitch keeps the rope tight to the end of the biner.

on the 16 st split tail I used to use, i always girth hitched around the biner.

as for 17 friction savers, WOW!, i can say I didnt know there were that many different ones available. Ive got one from buckingham and dont have many problems at all. If i install from the ground, i know imediately if it will come out as if it wont go in, it wont come out. i very seldomly install one after the initial climb but if i do, i make sure it will come out befor i set it up.

 

[OutOnaLimb]

I use an ISC captive eye girth hitched on the spliced eye of my climb line, and a ball lock HMS biner for my Schwabish with a tender pully attached via a keychain biner run through the spliced eye of my tress cord. The girth hitch may be a little bulky but I dont really notice it. The core taken out of the eye during the splicing process makes the rope significantly smaller in diameter and the girth hitch is actually smaller than a knot tied to the standing end of a climb line.

If I ever go old school end of rope method I like to use a tri-act steel biner through a bowline and tie off with a blakes.

Kenn

 

[Nathan Wreyford]

DMM Wales

I use these. You'll never look at ball locks again. I believe the ball locks are not the safest.

The DMM Wales are by far the best biner I have used.

.02

http://www.freeworker.de/store/pd1690408663.htm?categoryId=8

 

[jkrueger]

Originally posted by BigJohn
What kind of friction saver won't work with a spliced eye? I don't have a single problem you mentioned with any of spliced eye, biners or friction savers. I think Mike is suffering from OE, operator error.

Sure rideing bicycle is easier than flying a plane. But if I was going from Phl to Lax I would choose fly a plane rather then ride a bike. That would be faster and easier for me. But maybe for Mike since he is untrained and unlicensed to fly the bike would be better choice.

The equipment we use is dependent on our own skill level.

I think that climbers who insist on splices probaly steal fruit when on a job.

Had my new Samson Arbormaster go flat in my hands as I got near the TIP. Seemed the core was goofy. Anybody have a thought for this concerned guy?

Jack

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Originally posted by okietreedude1
the greatest advantage to girth hitching to a biner is to eliminate the possibility of cross loading the biner. the girth hitch keeps the rope tight to the end of the biner.

Good Point.

The girthing also takes the stress off of the splice/joint.

As the coreless eye flattens, it has less dimension and isn't as leveraged as it curls around the carabiner; thereby maintaining more strength i would think.

 

[murphy4trees]

Here's Big Jon's FS for pruning... the fact that the little red stopper ball won't go thru the fixie, makes it retreivable....
And I wouldn't want to go back to a non spliced eye climbing line... Spliced eye saves way too much time.... Unclip... recrotch... reclip.... And it takes just seconds to reset the ART rope guide when blocking down spars...

Matter of fact MM... that's the most un-new school thing I've ever heard you say!

 

[NeTree]

Originally posted by MasterBlaster
Dang Mike, you've got 17, and I have zero.

:alien:

Butch... ya GOTTA try one! Your line will run smoother, your ropes will last longer, and you won't rope-burn crocthes. Heck, your rope will stay cleaner, too!


Every try a split-tail? There's another "new" idea that you'd enjoy. Even using your TLH; wouldn't it be nice to only have to tie it once?

 

[wct4life]

Instead of bothering with a false crotch why not set a pulley with another line?

Throw your bag into the tree, set a line, attach a pulley with your climbing line in it. Then raise it near the crotch, tie off the pulley line to the tree w/ a bowline.

You don't have to worry about isolating your line, it's nearly friction less, quicker than setting a FC, and it'll move w/ you as you work the tree.

I was playing around with it this past weekend. Seems good to me.