woodchuck357
Addicted to ArboristSite
We of Scott/German/Cherokee descent just call them frame saws!My grandpa said way back when they used a Finn saw for most stuff. He prolly woulda rather used the Swede saw since that's what he was.
We of Scott/German/Cherokee descent just call them frame saws!My grandpa said way back when they used a Finn saw for most stuff. He prolly woulda rather used the Swede saw since that's what he was.
We of Scott/German/Cherokee descent just call them frame saws!
I picked up a 3' single handled saw with a removable handle that can be installed at the far end, or attached as an extra handle for one man use. It was $6 at the local flea market and is in very good shape.I just bought a five footer off CL for 5 bucks a few days ago almost like new. Got one earlier for 10 that's in the reverse electrolysis bath to remove a light coat of rust. That one has a very aggressive double H tooth design that will be rough to use one man.
I believe they were stacked to mark out the edges of the cleared fields, not just for property lines.
Ayup.
Typically the earliest fences would have been zig-zag fences.
It took about 50 years for the stones to start being an issue -- a combination of the original forest duff/soil eroding off and frost working them up. Forest floors don't get frost to any where near the extent open fields do.
So you dump the stones along the zig-zag fences that you can't grow crops or mow easily near.
Later on, as you have time, you come back and straighten them up and make a wall about waist height which is as high as is comfortable to easily lift them.
The stones probably made it hog tight, but not high enough to keep cows from jumping over, nor sheep from clambering over (they, like goats, love to climb on rocky places!). So you still had to build a wood fence on top of them, probably like an "A" or "H" frame with the legs down to the ground and horizontal members above the stones, though there was a few styles. Whatever the design, they took a lot less wood then the old zig-zag fences (important now that you had cleared most of the land), plus they were straighter giving you more useable land in the cultivated fields.
For a family farm of say 1780 -- 1830 (and most stone walls were built after the Revolution!) that is cutting, splitting, and burning 30 cords a year...building 500' of stone wall a year around the farm really wasn't that much work in comparison. Do that for two or three decades and you're talking some serious wall building.
Cutting fire wood all my life till the mid 1980's was a family affair and I mean family. We had double bit and single bit( dads favorite for some reason) plumb brand axes. We had bow saws, cross cuts and single man cross cuts and what we called Swedish saws and a couple of buzz rigs for the family.
Once the crops were harvested it was wood cutting time and before spring crops got planted. We built buzz piles of wood huge logs were split with wedges to make then manageable to place on the buzz rig table. Mom and aunts would cook huge meals while all the males were out buzzing wood from the pile which could take a couple of days or more. Then we would gather at a uncles place to repeat the steps till every aunt and uncle had stove wood instead of a buzz pile.
Some time about 1951 or so dad made a mounted rig for the buzz rig on the Allis Chalmers WC, later a WD and even later a Massey Harris 44. I have one that I've mounted on a Massey Harris 30. And a 3 pt one that mounts on the Ford 5000.
One uncle bought a stationary engine that he ran my aunts washer with cut fire wood and other chores so he could do stuff is self.
Those were great family reunions where every one had a great time with great food.
Al
Cows and horses got "hobbled" so they could not get too far away even without a fence. That was after there were no more wolves to worry about.
Not to get off topic too much, anyone ever put up hay, loose with scythe and a pitchfork right from the field? That is real work too.
I picked up a 3' single handled saw with a removable handle that can be installed at the far end, or attached as an extra handle for one man use. It was $6 at the local flea market and is in very good shape.
Ahh, but that's the thing - those are tasks I will learn to do myself. I like to sharpen things and enjoy acquiring new skills. I've picked up some saw sets too, mostly for finer pitch, but I think one of the last ones I found might be right.There is a rub with old saws. Many good ones are to be found at auctions and flea markets (in fact better quality than most new saws), but it's still a misery whip if dull. Finding someone to file it correctly, a job that will take hours if done right, will boost the finished price of that 6.00 saw -- but then you will have a quality saw jointed, pointed, and set that cuts far better than a "new" one purchased retail.
You might have seen this if searching for saw filing, but if not, give it a look. My focus was on one-man saws because the small teeth don't always conform to the big jointer-raker gauges designed for 2-man saws. As for files, 8" mill and slim taper files are the only ones you'll need unless you want to lower the gullets, then a 1/4" chainsaw file does that pretty well.