You guys and your weenie spikes.
Largers spikes besides better leverage keep you from beating up the muffler on your saw. I noticed that right away.
Me no understand? How are you beating up the muffler on your saw?
Gary[/QUOTEI
I find when really trying to leverage on a big tree, and sometimes not even using alot of force the muffler is making contact on the tree and wearing it down faster than needs be. My after market spikes cost 30.00$ and a new muffler cost around 30-40.00$. I figure I get better leverage and grab along with an added buffer between the saw and the tree. Now if that is silly or poor thinking to someone then by all means strike me down as if I was anyone else on this forum whom is not agreed with. I was jsut trying to me helpful.
Me no understand? How are you beating up the muffler on your saw?
Gary[/QUOTEI
I find when really trying to leverage on a big tree, and sometimes not even using alot of force the muffler is making contact on the tree and wearing it down faster than needs be. My after market spikes cost 30.00$ and a new muffler cost around 30-40.00$. I figure I get better leverage and grab along with an added buffer between the saw and the tree. Now if that is silly or poor thinking to someone then by all means strike me down as if I was anyone else on this forum whom is not agreed with. I was jsut trying to me helpful.
Yup, they do also protect the muffler, once your past center on a 6' butt, they do help.
In hardwoods like back East or South, I wouldn't bother, here on Van Isle they throw them
in with the purchase of a modded saw.
They have a real function here, where the trees are rather large.
I would never have one of my falling saws without them.
Me no understand? How are you beating up the muffler on your saw?
Gary[/QUOTEI
I find when really trying to leverage on a big tree, and sometimes not even using alot of force the muffler is making contact on the tree and wearing it down faster than needs be. My after market spikes cost 30.00$ and a new muffler cost around 30-40.00$. I figure I get better leverage and grab along with an added buffer between the saw and the tree. Now if that is silly or poor thinking to someone then by all means strike me down as if I was anyone else on this forum whom is not agreed with. I was jsut trying to me helpful.
Please read between the lines here or don't, its your choice paint it however makes you feel more assertive in the situation.
Please read between the lines here or don't, its your choice paint it however makes you feel more assertive in the situation.
Ok, when I'm finishing my final felling cut the saw is well past center in the cut, the size of the trees here begin to impede on the brake and front handle due to the size of the tree and the fact of being past center in the tree, the larger spikes keep you farther away, affording you more space to keep your hold wood even.
Keep in mind, this only happens on the large trees, your felling cuts must line up.
I love reading all the different opinions on topics like this.
You have any of your own lad?
Well, all I've ever used is big dawgs. Actually after market, Pro Safety four point mainly. Sure nice when I have to low stump a swell butted tree, or buck a big log.
How's that my friend? It's all I got.
Good enough, pretty much the same here.
Gonna be freeze ass tonight, don't break a spindle.
Well, all I've ever used is big dawgs. Actually after market, Pro Safety four point mainly. Sure nice when I have to low stump a swell butted tree, or buck a big log.
How's that my friend? It's all I got.
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