Benifits of a shorter bar

[JUDGE1162]

I started a thread about choosing a new bar and chain set up for my Husky 455 Rancher, I had plan to step down from the stock 20 inch bar to an 18 inch bar, because of what I have read here on the forum, many of you seem to recommend a 3 to 1 ratio of cc to inches of bar some even 4 to 1 ratios for increase speed and chain pulling power. The 455R come with 55 cc so a 1/3 is 18.3, so I was going to buy an 18 inch bar. However on the thread many people said that the 20 inch bar is fine and I will see no diffrence between a 20 and 18 inch bar is this true, I think the 16 bar would be too small and I already have a limbing saw "eager beaver" with a 16 inch bar


So I guess my question is what is the benifit of running a smaller Bar, is there a formular to figure out the diffrence in chain speeds for diffrent length bars, some people on the thread even said that if I was going to get a second bar get a 24 or 26 inch bar(I am not sure the saw would run a 24 or 26 inch bar) husky does say it will run a 24inch bar (some place other they say 20 inch)


I am cutting 10 cords a year of firewood ad some small clearing (for a garage)on 40 acres of land.

:help: I am just confused please help :bang:

 

[Four Paws]

Any snow up in the Catskills? Heard Bufallo got pounded with 20" of lake effect! The weather has been pretty nice here lately, although we got about a foot almost 3 weeks ago now - none since!

First, I think you need to port your muffler - open that thing up and you will like your saw much more! It will a lot have more grunt - talk to Freakingstang - he has a Rancher that really came around after a few mods. Also, I think Musch is pretty into the Husky saws - heard he has done a LOT with the 50's. I think if you like Husky saws - the 372XP would be the best compliment to your saw. Or, you could sell both and get a Dolmar 5100S and 7900. If you spend much time around here, most of us will have you wanting 10 different saws - LOL. Most will agree that it is nice to have 2 saws in the woods - one for felling/blocking the big stuff, and they another saw for limbing. And, your Husky would fit the bill with a 16" bar and a muffler mod for limbing. Then, that 372XP could wear a 20 or 24" bar for the times you need it. Many will attest it is the best saw Husky ever made. Trust me, you would be very happy with that set-up.

Good luck with the addiction - it is about to begin!

 

[JUDGE1162]

No snow Yet, but I hear this weekend maybe

Yeah I have been thinking about possible mods, the saw is OK, but when I bought it I was expecting more saw then I got, for now it is the saw I got maybe down the road the 372XP, I'll try to touch base with Freakingstang and see if he can point me in the right direction.

 

[computeruser]

So I guess my question is what is the benifit of running a smaller Bar, is there a formular to figure out the diffrence in chain speeds for diffrent length bars, some people on the thread even said that if I was going to get a second bar get a 24 or 26 inch bar(I am not sure the saw would run a 24 or 26 inch bar) husky does say it will run a 24inch bar (some place other they say 20 inch)

Most who elect to run a shorter bar do so because they want to have as small, light, and nimble a package as they can within the context of the job at hand. Why carry extra weight around and have extra cutters to sharpen if you don't need to?

On the felling side of the equation, you can fell trees 2x the length of your bar using "conventional" techniques, and nearly 3x the length of your bar using Scandanavian felling techniques. The only place where the short bar hurts you is if you're blocking up a lot of stuff that is substantially larger than your bar, in which case you have to cut from both sides of the log.

In your instance, a 16"-20" bar seems appropriate, given the power output of your saw. I would not want to go any bigger as my normal bar in the midwest and on the east coast, where hardwoods predominate. You can do darned-near anything with a 20" bar, anyway.

On the subject of being underwhelmed by your 455, I sold my 290 (20", .325 round chisel) to my father in law a while back. He also has a 455Rancher (18", 3/8" round chisel) and feels the 290 is noticeably faster in 16"+ wood, despite the similarity of the on-paper specs. The 455 is now his loaner saw. At some point I will have to borrow a .325 bar for the 455 and do some timed comparison cuts.

 

[SawTroll]

Most who elect to run a shorter bar do so because they want to have as small, light, and nimble a package as they can within the context of the job at hand. Why carry extra weight around and have extra cutters to sharpen if you don't need to?
......

I agree, it is mostly about balance and weight, as long as the wood is the same.
Differenses in cutting speed is there, but hardly noticable in most cases, with a couple of inches difference.

 

[outdoortype]

benefits of a shorter bar

I recently switched from an 18" bar to a 16" bar on My Husky 359. My MS310 came with a 16" bar it just seemed more handy & easier to sharpen. Most of the wood I cut is Oak and averages around 14". Now sometimes I get trunks 16" to 20" diameter but most of the time the 16" seems like its just long enough. The 359 would pull the 18" 3/8's bar with ease but it was either just long enough or a way too long. If you're wishy washy like me, you'll buy both & switch back in forth! I hope this helps

 

[oldsaw]

Don't look down on 16" bars...it's my favorite size, and outside of hanging with the two guys I mill with, the 16" gets the most use of all. With the size of the logs they get, I run a 36" a lot.

My Super XL is about 60cc, and in hardwoods, a 16 is really about all it is good for. I know guys run longer bars on them, but it just doesn't like it. I guess I'm a "4 to 1" guy rather than a "3 to 1". Another reason to buy an 090?...nah, I'll have to "settle" for my 3120...it's paid for.

Mark

 

[Brushwacker]

For me bars shorter then 20" give me an acheing back in most conditions cutting firewood for longer period s of time. Always have even when I was a young one.If I am up in a tree, cutting small stumps, or cutting up a big wooly tree top, or just packing a saw to clean up trails or use occasionly camping is when I find a short bar more benificial.20" and 24" keep my back straight most of the time when bucking firewood. I'm 6',a shorter person probably would feel more comfortable with a shorter bar.

 

[Freakingstang]

Shorter bars are a thing of beauty and function. Why carry a bar longer than needed? I don't like extra weight if I don't need it.

I run a 16" bar on my 346, and the 5100.

I run a 20" on my 372's and 7900's.

The small saws don't need a bar longer than 16" or so in these parts. Kinda like putting a V8 in a pinto. It is cool, but pointless.

I have longer bars if needed, but here in hardwood country, most trees can be felled and bucked with a 20-24" bar. Guys that carry a 36" bar in these parts are people with penis envy problems.

I spent some time in Catskill, NY three years ago. Nice area. I was in poughkeepsie more than Catskill, though.

 

[SawTroll]

Shorter bars are a thing of beauty and function. Why carry a bar longer than needed? I don't like extra weight if I don't need it.

I run a 16" bar on my 346, and the 5100.

I run a 20" on my 372's and 7900's.

......

Sounds right to me - my 361 with an 18" bar fit nicely in there, but I also use a 15" on it....:greenchainsaw:

How does the 372 and 7900 balance the 20" bars, and longer ones - is there a differense (between the saws, I mean)?

 

[musch]

Shorter bars are a thing of beauty and function.

Guys that carry a 36" bar in these parts are people with penis envy problems.
.

I have thought that for a while, but didn't want to start yet another argument.

I try to run the shortest possible bar to reasonably do the task at hand.
The way I look at it, why use the extra HP to pull a 32" bar on a 16" log? Doesn't make sense. Use the shorter bar, and the extra displacement you gain will go into cutting.

That would seem to be simple physics, but I have not done a real world timed test. Been meaning to.
opcorn:

 

[oldsaw]

Outside of a mill, 36" bars make me nervous, and they are heavy to lug around. A lot less thinking with a 16 about where the bar is, and more thinking about what it is doing. I'm good with that.

The upside is that the 36 has made me a whole lot more comfortable with a 25" bar...it's no longer "big". I'm just not into the "bar envy" thing...I'd rather have a saw that will pull through a cut without playing with it.

Mark

 

[manual]

. Guys that carry a 36" bar in these parts are people with penis envy problems.

why does it always got to go there:monkey:

 

[JUDGE1162]

It is a guy think who does not love to say mine is bigger than yours it can be chainsaw cc, bar size, truck, house, wood stove, etc. Who does not love to have the biggest "thing" in town

 

[wagonwheeler]

why does it always got to go there:monkey:

Projection?

 

[oldsaw]

It is a guy think who does not love to say mine is bigger than yours it can be chainsaw cc, bar size, truck, house, wood stove, etc. Who does not love to have the biggest "thing" in town

Mine doesn't have to be bigger...just better.

If I didn't mill, I wouldn't have an 066, a 3120, or a 36" or larger bar. I would have a 046 with a 20" bar and be happy....sort of, but I'm getting off the topic here. My inherent cheapness keeps me from many of these "contests". But I do get to play with cool stuff a lot.

Mark

 

[blis]

whats wrong with you ppl and huge bars.... im running my 353 on 13" and it works fine...

 

[Monkeyhanger]

whats wrong with you ppl and huge bars.... im running my 353 on 13" and it works fine...

Hi,

there are, well there used to be, some big trees there. Much bigger than we usually get to see here in Europe. I have wondered the same thing but the other way around - it seems many people here in Germany have a "phobia" of bars that measure more than 20". I do use a 24" myself but only for cutting stumps down low.

People here worry about putting a 24" bar on a 460, the Stihl recommendation for a 460 is either 18" or 20"! The most common lengths for most saws here are 38 to 45 cm long (15" to 18"). The recommended bars for a 660 here are only either 20" or 24".

I find it all quite strange...

Bye

 

[sawinredneck]

HHHHHHMMMMMMMMMMM............ I dunno bout all of this!!!!!! I can see the point for the shorter bar, I have seen those crazy guys from Husky doing the bore cuts and taking down some large 36"ish trees with a 14" bar, impressive I must say!!! Now me, I am mainly doing removals and firewood, I want to cut it as quick as possible not having to spend the time making four cuts to chunk it out! I also have a 32" for the 046 after running into some large trees. How would you go about cutting up a 72" by 49" Oak stump and save it for firewood with a 20" or even a 25"?
The small bars are great when you can use them or have to use them, if Iam cutting something I just want to cut it once and move on, if that means I need a bigger saw then so be it, why I onwn the 046 now!
Andy

 

[SawTroll]

whats wrong with you ppl and huge bars.... im running my 353 on 13" and it works fine...

Welcome to the site!

The 353 balances better with a 15".....:biggrinbounce2: