SawTroll
Information Collector
Imo, the difference has little to do with chain changes, but with chip flow, and sprocket changes.......:biggrinbounce2:
Because the bar tends to slip down to the thinner parts of the bolts, if you don't hold the bar in place during initial tensioning.
Sounds like you may need to come up with a new technique. ...
Somebody please tell me the trick to changing the chain on the husky with the outboard clutch. I don't see an easy way to do it. What am I missing?
Somebody please tell me the trick to changing the chain on the husky with the outboard clutch. I don't see an easy way to do it. What am I missing?
Caution, THREAD DERAILER!!!!
Ok, what works best for me, loosen the adjustment as much as you can. Work the chain onto the spur gear, MAKE SURE it is lined up in the groove on the sprocket!!! This has burned me several times! Place the bar over the studs, holding it at an angle (up) slide the bar back tight against the clutch/sprocket and place the chain over the tip of the bar. Lower the bar down and guide the chian on the bar as you pull the bar forward to lineup on the adjuster. Then tighten the adjuster to take some of the slack out of the chain, I like to put the cover on and tighten down the nuts, then loosten them and adjust the chain tension. If the bar DOES NOT sit tight against the oiler plate, it's usually an 1/8 inch gap and noticible, you need to start all over! I can put my 350 together day after day and never have a bit of problem. I can't put my 346 together three times without screwing up at least once, you tell me?
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