SawTroll
Information Collector
'Course I do (361), but I am sure (even though I have no reason to try) the 5100S has the power and the balance point to do a good job with it - it isn't a run-of-the-mill 50cc saw.......:biggrinbounce2:
Best bar length for 346XP
- Thread starter rick_reno
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'Course I do (361), but I am sure (even though I have no reason to try) the 5100S has the power and the balance point to do a good job with it - it isn't a run-of-the-mill 50cc saw.......:biggrinbounce2:
rickyrooster
ArboristSite Guru
346xp
Why not get a 60cc or bigger saw for the 20" bar and leave the 346xp with the 16" for the smaller stuff. you could send it out for a woods port and then it may handle a bigger bar. I run 20" on my 60cc saws without a problem. I've got a 16",.325 on my husky 55 and a 16",.325 on my 026. I've got a 24" on my 76cc 475 poulan pro and a 25"on my stihl 075.
Why not get a 60cc or bigger saw for the 20" bar and leave the 346xp with the 16" for the smaller stuff. you could send it out for a woods port and then it may handle a bigger bar. I run 20" on my 60cc saws without a problem. I've got a 16",.325 on my husky 55 and a 16",.325 on my 026. I've got a 24" on my 76cc 475 poulan pro and a 25"on my stihl 075.
Engineeringnerd
ArboristSite Operative
I run both a 16" and 20" narrow kerf set-up on my 346. The 16" is really the right size for this saw, the 20" is good when I am cutting mostly small stuff but may have to cut something a little larger on occasion and I don't want to lug both saws into the woods. Using the 16" on limbing is perfect and this is the intended use for this saw. It doesn't get any better, I'd argue this may be the best saw on the planet for limbing. If you start cutting hardwood greater than 12" in diameter with any regularity, go to a bigger saw with a more aggressive chain, it will be more enjoyable and productive.
I really recommend the narrow kerf set-up for this saw; it helps to keep the rpm's up and slices like a knife. I also notice that the kickback tendencies with narrow kerf are greatly reduced, which is nice when limbing. Others mention that they prefer 3/8" or standard .325. I just don't see why you'd want to drag the saw down given it was built for speed, not torque.
I really recommend the narrow kerf set-up for this saw; it helps to keep the rpm's up and slices like a knife. I also notice that the kickback tendencies with narrow kerf are greatly reduced, which is nice when limbing. Others mention that they prefer 3/8" or standard .325. I just don't see why you'd want to drag the saw down given it was built for speed, not torque.
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Oregon_Rob
ArboristSite Guru
Bar length
So do you notice any difference in the saw, out of the cut with the 16 vs. 20 inch bars?
For all of you “now longer than 16” guys. What is the difference if I am cutting a ø6” limb with a 16 vs. a 20” bar? Does 8” of chain make that much difference?
opcorn:
My 346 came with a 20” bar and seems to work just fine. I don’t cut much over 10-12” with it. From there, I switch to the modded 385xp with the 20” full comp or the 32” with full skip as I did last night on a ø40” Fir.
BTW, what chain do you all like for the 346?
So do you notice any difference in the saw, out of the cut with the 16 vs. 20 inch bars?
For all of you “now longer than 16” guys. What is the difference if I am cutting a ø6” limb with a 16 vs. a 20” bar? Does 8” of chain make that much difference?
opcorn: My 346 came with a 20” bar and seems to work just fine. I don’t cut much over 10-12” with it. From there, I switch to the modded 385xp with the 20” full comp or the 32” with full skip as I did last night on a ø40” Fir.
BTW, what chain do you all like for the 346?
SawTroll
Information Collector
You got it right, as usual! :rockn: :rockn:
