Best chain for my application?

[rustyb]

My saw: MS 260....will have a 16" bar.

My application: from dirty dead on the ground hardwood to standing live softwood and everything in between.

I like the idea of the fastest cutting chain but need something that will stay sharper longer in the variety of stuff I'm cutting. I also want something which is easy to sharpen......in other words, I'm not sure I want to tackle learning a new technique with a square file.

I'm currently running the stock Stihl 3/8" RM safety chain.

My thinking so far is with either Oregon full comp semi-chisel or Stihl RS.

Can you recommend one or the other & why?

Thanks,
r

 

[Marky Mark]

I would go with the Oregon full chisel. The Stihl chain to me is way to hard to file.But that's me. Don't forget Carlton chain either.

 

[jokers]

Hi Rusty,

You won`t get the best staysharp with chisel chain if you cut less than perfectly clean wood. You could try Stihl RM vs RM2, it does not have the guard links and it cuts slightly faster, or you could try someone else`s semi chisel.

Russ

 

[ray benson]

Hi Rusty,
I would order a hoop of each (chisel and semi-chisel) from Baileys or maybe commercial cutters.The chisel when your going to be cutting clean wood and the semi-chisel for the dirty wood days.By the time the chains have to be replaced you will know what worked best for your situation.
Ray

 

[tony marks]

id use semichisel on that.. carry an exstra chain an a good file..i hate to do that kinda job..one thing you can try is making plunge cuts so the chain is coming outa the dirty parts. that works pretty good..ive done it..

 

[glens]

I would combine Russ and Ray's posts to say get one loop each of RM and RS.

Glen

 

[GeorgeWLogger]

Hey Rusty,

How bout a Freska?

Run oregon DG. Do NOT listen to what these other people are saying. DG is designed to stay sharper and cut longer in dirty conditions.

GeorgeW

 

[Fish]

Never listen to anyone from Ky. Go with the semi-chisel.

 

[Lawn Masters]

I'd use semi chisel too. seems to be my chain of choice. holds a nice edge, cuts nicely, and doesnt get screwed up easily like full chisel does. even though it is a significantly slower chain to cut with, I still like it.

 

[GeorgeWLogger]

DG = Semi-chisel cutters with ramped depth gauges and standard sequence.

UmKay

 

[rustyb]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

One thing I didn't make clear in my original post is that I'm primarily wanting something that'll cut faster than my stock RM2 Stihl chain.

Won't just about any chain be an improvement in cutting performance over what I'm using now?

I don't care if my chain won't win any backyard races. I just want more performance than what I have now for real world non-pro firewood cutting. Of course, the chain needs to be good at holding its edge in varied conditions and user friendly to sharpen.

From what I have been able to gather so far, the semi-chisel is the way to go as far as holding the edge in dirty stuff. Unless I missed something though, I can't really find a definate answer as to whether it'll cut faster than my RM2.

Buying a whole slew of different chains would be the way to go. But, with so many other things I'm in need of right now ($), I have to draw the line some where.

Thanks again & I look forword to more posts.

 

[lucky]

Rusty there's no way to say another "off the shelf" semi chisel will cut faster than RM2 on your saw. Round chisel or square chisel would cut faster than your semi (RM2) but the full chisels will probably dull quicker in hardwoods. Like others here, I'll keep several loops around and use the chain that best suits the wood.
If you don't want to spend much, buy a loop of round chisel and see how you like it. John

 

[BlackSmith]

rustyb, l only use Stihl™ RSF. Does great in dirty wood, stays sharp, cuts faster and takes half the time to sharpen. l average 60 cords per loop. Word of warning though, it's got some kickback to it if you're new to sawing.

 

[glens]

RM performs a fair bit better than RM2 in a couple of respects.

You can largely eliminate the differences between them in respect to boring or cutting wood wider than the bar is long by removing the rear tit of the safety bumper.  Score it with the edge of a file as indicated in the attachment and snap it off sideways with pliers.

I'd shy away from skip chain unless you're doing mostly full-bar cuts.  They're hell on limbing and even though you'd have less cutters to sharpen, you'll have to do it more often.  It's a wash in that respect.

I carry on the truck at least one loop of RM for every bar length I've got, and have the couple of RM<s>2</s> chains along for the really nasty stuff.

Glen

 

[trimmmed]

Oregon DG rocks for dirty and dry hardwoods.