I was wondering if you guys could recommend a chain sharpener for me. Between me and my brother we cut about 35 cords a year. I want something that wil do the job without alot of messing around. I just see there are 100 dollar sharpener and then there is 500 dollar sharpeners. I just want a quality tool that should last a long time. I just don't know what is worth the money and what isn't .
best chain sharpener for me
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Alot of people will tell you to hand file, others will tell you to buy a grinder. If you're filing, there are jigs that make it more accurate (granberg file n joint). If you're looking at buying a grinder, the Oregon 511a seems to be the industry standard (according to what I've read). People are also using the much cheaper copy from Northern Tool, but from what I understand, there are some modifications involved in order for it to operate as well as the Oregon. Do a search on Chainsaw Grinder, or Sharpener, it's been discussed quite a bit. I'm sure that you'll find more information than you know what to do with.
One more tidbit
DO NOT waste your time with the harbor freight chain grinder... I just had to put that out there..
FYI the Oregon 511a grinder is copied by many but will usually be of cheaper construction. Tecomec (as far as I understand) actually makes the Oregon 511a for Oregon and they have their own model of the same grinder. I haven't heard anything bad about either one of them.
I've been doing quite a bit of research myself, and have found that a decent, out of the box grinder is going to cost anywhere between $300 and $500. I was looking specifically at the 511a, and the MAXX Professional Grinder Mod. 13151. The main advantage that the MAXX has over the Oregon 511a is that you can run the wheel in reverse (this allows you to cut into the tooth on both sides of the chain, it's a burr thing, some think it's a big deal, others don't.)
Okay, I'm done.
DO NOT waste your time with the harbor freight chain grinder... I just had to put that out there..
FYI the Oregon 511a grinder is copied by many but will usually be of cheaper construction. Tecomec (as far as I understand) actually makes the Oregon 511a for Oregon and they have their own model of the same grinder. I haven't heard anything bad about either one of them.
I've been doing quite a bit of research myself, and have found that a decent, out of the box grinder is going to cost anywhere between $300 and $500. I was looking specifically at the 511a, and the MAXX Professional Grinder Mod. 13151. The main advantage that the MAXX has over the Oregon 511a is that you can run the wheel in reverse (this allows you to cut into the tooth on both sides of the chain, it's a burr thing, some think it's a big deal, others don't.)
Okay, I'm done.
Buzsaw
ArboristSite Member
I use the Oregon 511a daily, grinding 11H and 18H processor chain with Cylone grinding wheels. Usually grind 10-12 chains a day. The only part that broke was the return spring for the head. Been grinding for years with it with no major problems. It is "sloppy" since of high wear and tear. Be getting a new one next month.
Poley4
ArboristSite Guru
I bought the Northern Tool chain grinder, and for the money, it's hard to beat. My only real complaint with this grinder is the grinding wheels it came with were junk, but fortunately, quality wheels are available thru Bailey's. This grinder uses the same wheels as the Oregon 511A.
harrygrey382
Addicted to ArboristSite
hand file - it's a no brainer IMO. You can file when out cutting (don't need two chains), can get it sharper (so I hear...), MUCH cheaper initial costs, gives you and the saw a good break, no setting up time. Plus more I maybe haven't thought of.
Cons are you need a bit of practice before you're a 'pro'. But it's not rocket science, much easier than hand grinding a knife or chisel on a whetstone.
Cons are you need a bit of practice before you're a 'pro'. But it's not rocket science, much easier than hand grinding a knife or chisel on a whetstone.
+1 for the Granberg File-n-Joint
I've had very good results with the Grandberg. The setup is fast and easy and I can actually file a chain that cuts better than new. After some time with the Grandberg, I would say that you could easily train yourself to free hand file, IMHO.
I will add that I also have a Stihl USG electric grinder, and I use the Grandberg more.
I've had very good results with the Grandberg. The setup is fast and easy and I can actually file a chain that cuts better than new. After some time with the Grandberg, I would say that you could easily train yourself to free hand file, IMHO.
I will add that I also have a Stihl USG electric grinder, and I use the Grandberg more.
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Swamp Yankee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Appropriate size file.
I hand file and have yet to see a ground chain that pull a chip the way someone that knows how to file sharpen can.
If you're going to do any amount of cutting you'll need to know hand filing anyway. I'm quite sure you'll also find your chains last longer.
As to file holders and jigs, on the saw I use the Stihl handle and holder. This is because my hands don't work as well as they used too and the holder makes it easier for me to hold and guide the file. So far I've found Stihl files are the best.
For rocked chains, I sharpen off the off the saw and use the Stihl bench mount filing jig. No. it ain't cheap, but it works well and there is no flex like on the inexpensive models. Settings stay where you put them.
Take Care
I hand file and have yet to see a ground chain that pull a chip the way someone that knows how to file sharpen can.
If you're going to do any amount of cutting you'll need to know hand filing anyway. I'm quite sure you'll also find your chains last longer.
As to file holders and jigs, on the saw I use the Stihl handle and holder. This is because my hands don't work as well as they used too and the holder makes it easier for me to hold and guide the file. So far I've found Stihl files are the best.
For rocked chains, I sharpen off the off the saw and use the Stihl bench mount filing jig. No. it ain't cheap, but it works well and there is no flex like on the inexpensive models. Settings stay where you put them.
Take Care
buzsaw, I've got a like new Oregon 511A without the chain holder assembly. your old chain holder will bolt right into new 511A grinder.
I'm offering it for $195 + shipping... please PM if interested
I'm offering it for $195 + shipping... please PM if interested
The easiest thing to do is get a chain vise, a dozen Stihl files, and a wife with a steady hand and a good eye for detail.
flatpikr
ArboristSite Operative
I've been successfully using the el-cheapo plastic wonder from Harbor. It has and still is serving me well. I am going to upgrade to the Northern this week (on sale for 89 bucks). Guess it depends on how much you have to spend. I'm glad I bought the plastic grinder first as I am now comfortable using one. The learning curve with the new Northern shoud be brief. If you have a business, however, you might want to go for the gusto and get a top of the line model and write it off as well.
habanero
ArboristSite Guru
After years of hand filing I finally broke down this fall and bought a MAXX grinder. I hand-file chains several times, then go over them with the grinder every once in a while. I've been filing chains for 20 years and I know I for one can't get them as sharp as the grinder gets them. I still think overuse of the grinder will wear down the chain a lot faster than hand-filing, which is why I still touch up with the file, but I don't regret buying the grinder for a second.
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