best way to pull a clutch ???

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Stumper said:
Lakeside, Russ made the point already but.......Impact wrenches loosen frozen fasteners that a cheater bar wont budge or simple will break. The reasons have to do with the energy transfer via sudden impact and vibrational patterns set up by multiple impacts etc. -Bottomline is -Anyone who has worked on a bunch of stubborn bolts with both tools knows that the impact is more likely to get things loose without breaking something.

I agree. That's why I said "but sometimes you have to..." (use an air wrench). Let me be clear - I use a breaker bar to remove, but not to excessively overtorque the threads. If it doesn't move I reach for my Makita impact wrench. If it still won't move (very unusual) it's now the air wrench or whatever it needs to be... I say 90% of the time the clutch comes off with minimal (relatively) effort on the bar. Most clutches aren't rusted in place (have had ample oil everywhere) and the breaking torque isn't excessively more than the orginal tightening. If it was put ON with a breaker bar orginally, that's a different problem.
 
Fish,

I almost said, sometimes what seems to be inuendo is too obvious and must be pulled out, but that just didn`t sound right.

AHEM

:D
 
tree envy, wedge envy, ... or handle envy ???

for Marky Mark ... Wedge trick ??? man that's the best ???? picture of a full wrap handle I've ever saw ... Ever !!!

(see post #51, page #4, of this thread ... http://gypoclimber.com/denniswedgetrick.JPG )

What's wierd, is that every east coast distributor of Husky and Stihl wont even take an order for a large saw with a wrap handle on it ( imagine they sell real saws -- without full wrap option ?? you won't believe it until you check it out for yourself ). You want a real saw, you gotta fly it in from the west coast, or order $150 worth of parts, including new cover plate for the matching dawgs. (BTW, older properties on the east coast never have large trees in tight positions, so we don't have a need for wrap handles, and east coast trees always have an escape route so that the back cut can always be made from the right hand side ... and I'm a pretty boy too ... )

I say it again ... Man!-- that's best ???? picture of a full wrap handle I ever saw ...
 
Clutch Removal Tool

Clutch on the JBWeld saw had a unusual clutch configuration. Hopefully the pics post of the tool I made. Simple flat bar, drilled and tapped two approx 10 32 threads to accomodate two bolts. Unfortunately the bolts didn't quite line up with the notches on the clutch so had to file the bolts down a little. Put the tool up to the clutch lining up the bolts/notches and with an adjustable on the flatbar....Sucksess!

Probably went around my elbow to get to where the sun don't shine. Maybe it'll help someone else out later.
 
I usally stuff as much 1/4" rope as I can into the bore and find two snug bolts to drop (not thread) into whatever holes there are and lever them with my "big giant crafsman screw driver"
 
Bar Stock

Tom that piece of metal looks like a piece of 1/4" bar stock that you drilled and tapped . When I replaced my spur sprocket I was going to make a tool by grinding a old socket but I like your idea better . You keep fixing that grey saw and it will be one of your favorite saws .
 
Scott, the socket idea is great and I considered it.But I just dont have any spare sockets to hack up. Had six feet of that flat bar though. I needed to do a better job on setting the distance between the bolts. I was a full sixteenth of an inch off(tapped holes too close to each other).

The oiler on that saw was putting out less than ideal amount so I wanted to clean that bleed off screw. Didn't notice any trash, line is attached and clear. The foam filter in the oil tank was hard and had debris on the sides where it pulls from. Cleaned the foam filter and rotated it around to a new spot. Maybe that'll help.
 
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