Better Saw to Replace Echo CS590?

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I got the Echo running!

I'm using an HDA-327 carb which has barely been used but has sat since '22. I just did a half-rebuild on it, replacing the diaphragms, needle, two gaskets, and a mesh filter. It turns out it's important to put all the parts in the right places, but enough about that.

I put the H and L screws at 1.25 turns and got it going, but it idled way too fast and died when the throttle reached a certain point. I cranked the idle screw down almost to nothing, and now it runs like crazy without moving the chain at idle.

I have decided to turn the saw "on" (toggle switch) every time I shut it down, because if I don't, I will never remember to do it before I try to start it, and then I'll flood it. I'm also putting the choke on and then releasing it before pulling the cord, so the throttle is open. I saw someone saying to avoid using the compression release, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything, so I'm using it.

This will now be my backup/project saw. I ordered a Gearhead deflector and a flywheel key, and once I install them, I'll take the saw to the shop to let a pro adjust the carb. I'm also going to open the muffler up a little before taking it in. I saw some guy doing two 1/4" holes, and it seemed like it helped without making the saw scream too much.

I don't want to tune the carb myself until it has been tuned correctly at least once, and I don't want it done until these little mods are done. I want a pro to get it right so I don't burn it up before I get the hang of tuning it.

I wonder if I can get it to pull a 24" bar as well as the Husky.
 
I've had it with my Echo CS590 Timberwolf. This thing has been down most of the time I've had it, and you have to be a wizard to start it. I thought I was the problem, but then I saw posts all over the web complaining about it. I started it yesterday and then put it down for a minute, and I haven't been able to do anything with it since. I watch Youtube videos and read stuff on the web, and it doesn't seem to help. It floods if you breathe on it.

Is there a good 60cc saw out there that a) actually starts when cold and hot, and b) is not a miserable saw to work on? I have a Jonsered CS2240, and it actually runs, but working on it is a horror. Makes me wonder if a Jonsered/Husky 60cc is a bad idea.

I would prefer not to spend a grand on a Stihl, but I live on a farm, so it's not out of the question.

These days I do most of my work with a Makita cordless chainsaw and a $99 cordless Kobalt pole saw! Unbelievable, when I own an Echo, a Jonsered, and an Echo gas pole saw.
My cs590 has never gave me any issues. Only once. It was super hot out and I think it flooded because the pressure in the gas tank was a lot, when I cracked the cap alot of gas squirted out. I let sit for a bit then after a few pulls it started up. Usually it's 3-4 pulls when cold 1-2 when hot. Did you buy saw at dealer or box store?
 
I got the Echo running!

I'm using an HDA-327 carb which has barely been used but has sat since '22. I just did a half-rebuild on it, replacing the diaphragms, needle, two gaskets, and a mesh filter. It turns out it's important to put all the parts in the right places, but enough about that.

I put the H and L screws at 1.25 turns and got it going, but it idled way too fast and died when the throttle reached a certain point. I cranked the idle screw down almost to nothing, and now it runs like crazy without moving the chain at idle.

I have decided to turn the saw "on" (toggle switch) every time I shut it down, because if I don't, I will never remember to do it before I try to start it, and then I'll flood it. I'm also putting the choke on and then releasing it before pulling the cord, so the throttle is open. I saw someone saying to avoid using the compression release, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything, so I'm using it.

This will now be my backup/project saw. I ordered a Gearhead deflector and a flywheel key, and once I install them, I'll take the saw to the shop to let a pro adjust the carb. I'm also going to open the muffler up a little before taking it in. I saw some guy doing two 1/4" holes, and it seemed like it helped without making the saw scream too much.

I don't want to tune the carb myself until it has been tuned correctly at least once, and I don't want it done until these little mods are done. I want a pro to get it right so I don't burn it up before I get the hang of tuning it.

I wonder if I can get it to pull a 24" bar as well as the Husky.
Yea I run 24" all the time no issues and once in awhile a 34"43822fa2-e6e9-4b1a-a217-51726e9751a3-1_all_70967.jpg43822fa2-e6e9-4b1a-a217-51726e9751a3-1_all_70969.jpg
 
I bought this saw online because there was nowhere else to buy a saw in September of 2017.

I just gave a crew a king's ransom to cut a bunch of dangerous trees from around my house and shop, and today I went out to clean up behind them. I had to cut up a few things, including a 20" trunk, in order to get them on the tractor fork and out the gate. I could have used my Makita, but I wanted to see how the Echo worked after the rebuild, tuning, modification, and sharpening.

It really rips now. Enjoyable to use. When it's hot it starts on the first or second pull. Cold, it's more like three on choke and three off.

I have learned you don't turn this saw off by turning the ignition off. You turn it off and back on, so you don't leave it off the next time you start it. When you start it hot, you always pull the choke out and push it back in first to make sure the saw gets gas. When you start it cold, and you take the choke off after it barks, you always pull the choke out and push it in before pulling. The compression release doesn't make any difference if the saw is tuned right and you start it correctly.

My Jonsered 2240 (435) is ready to bring home from the shop. So what mods should I do?
 

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