Big CC saw advice???

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qbilder

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Hey fellas, I got a question for yall. I'm looking for a big saw & have found two 084's for sale. One is on the forum here for $650 but it's gotta be shipped from UP Michigan to New Mexico. The other is somewhat local to me, about 70 miles away, for $800. The local saw has a 36" bar with new ripping chain and a 30" bar with a carbide chain ground for milling. Which is the best deal given that both saws are solid, and is it worth the risk buying from afar if I have something I can thoroughly look over before buying at $150 more?
 
650 is a good deal for running 084 if its in decent shape. But then again tha 30" cbar and carbide chain has to be worth some $$$$$$$. That should more than make up the difference between the two. even if ya don't want/need it you can throw it on the bay and get a couple of bills I would think then you got an even cheaper 084 local! Just my humble opinion but either one sounds like a good deal to me.
 
Was thinking the same thing, i.e. if the MI saw is PHO, the one closer to you is a good deal, a new 30" bar is going to cost at least 60 bucks, and a chain at least 30. Throw on top of that the carbide Stihl chain, and that chain is probably worth at least close to 50 bucks. Plus the savings on freight to you of probably at least 30-40 bucks UPS, and you can easily eat up the difference.
 
If it is a real carbide chain it is worth some serious bucks. A quick search on the net and you will find that even a 20" loop can cost you as much as $300. Ooouucchh!:dizzy:
 
A 30" bar on a big cc saw intended for milling is a bit of a waste. Of course that depends on what you have available to mill. Not a totaly useles size bar as it can come in handy for bucking a good size log.

I recomended a rapco chain to my dad years ago when he was building a rataining wall with some stairs out of railroad ties. with regular chain he had to sharpen after every other cut, with the carbide he made it through the whole project without sharpening. He has an almond orchard and now he uses the carbide to cut up dead trees. His neighbors wont touch a dead tree even thogh almond is the most prized fire wood in our area due to what dead almond does to a chain.

If you have some tough stuff like mountian cedar or juniper and mesquite and the carbide loop is a rapco style chain I would go that route.

Being able to see and hear the saw as well as throw a compression guage on it might also make the local saw worth the extra cash.
 
Being able to see and hear the saw as well as throw a compression guage on it might also make the local saw worth the extra cash.

I'd definitely be going for the one you can see and hear and do a compression test on.

I don't hold much score for the carbide chain in terms of milling. Here is australia the trees are much harder than most other places but I was advised against using a carbide chain on a CSM and I glad I did because I haven't run across anyone that has stuck with using one. Milling is much harder on chains than crosscutting so it will eventually go blunt and then you won't be able to sharpen it yourself. However it would come in real handy for cutting up rootballs and such stuff that has been in the dirt.
 
Thanks much for all the advice. It's nice hearing different perspectives. CSMilling is a new thing for me so I have a lot to learn. I still need to buy or build a mill, and get a bar & chain big enough for the task.
 
Don't do it! Chainsaw mill is addictive, worse then crack or heroin(or something like that)!!!

I started really small, MS390 with a 24" ripping setup. That worked into a 064 with a 36" ripping setup, and a WoodMizer LT10.....you see where this is going? One 084 will turn into a bunch of stuff and then a tractor and who knows..............





I'd jump on the local deal, that way you don't have to worry about the PostOrfice loosing your stuff or worse.











Scott (can see it running too) B
 
Don't do it! Chainsaw mill is addictive, worse then crack or heroin(or something like that)!!!

I started really small, MS390 with a 24" ripping setup. That worked into a 064 with a 36" ripping setup, and a WoodMizer LT10.....you see where this is going? One 084 will turn into a bunch of stuff and then a tractor and who knows..............

:laugh: Yeah I know. That's what this is all about. I have a band mill & can saw 36" logs, but I want to do BIG logs, wide slabs. Mostly I want to be able to take really big oaks & quarter them into pieces that fit the band mill. Tractor is next.......but gotta save for that one.
 
I run a 084 for milling pulling a 36" chain at least 3 days a week only in hardwood and I absolutely love the saw. and as far as parts go yes there getting a lil harder to find but they are out there..and also there fairly easy to work on..
 
I've heard the advice given here that you should not buy a saw that was used for milling since milling is so hard on a saw. The guy has milling chain means he used it for milling, but for how long. Just one more thing to consider :smile2:
 
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