Blown Husky 350...now what?

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That's the oldest OE muffler mounts.

To use the newer style, just cut the leg off the starter side and use the dawg mounting hole for the PTO side.
The bar side leg of the one I tried to put on is a good 1/4" toward the center of the case away from the spike mounting point. AND it is shaped so it won't bend there.
 
That's the oldest OE muffler mounts.

To use the newer style, just cut the leg off the starter side and use the dawg mounting hole for the PTO side.
I see now, had it bass ackwards. I don't mess with 350s much anyway.
Cat say it don't fit that way either, but I believe I've seen pics of it somewhere???
 
I see now, had it bass ackwards. I don't mess with 350s much anyway.
Cat say it don't fit that way either, but I believe I've seen pics of it somewhere???
nmurph seems to be saying there's two different 346 brackets. I'd like to have the part number of one that will fit. I have 2 saws now that need the fix!
The bracket that I tried to use fits on my 353 just fine.
 
The old style brackets are NLA. Husqvarna references new style bracket # HUS 54480980. Less than $4.00. If you are looking for ipl's that give part numbers, just go to any online parts source like parts tree and look them up. I prefer to buy the parts from my local dealer though.

It's funny, I thought I was going to get questioned about the NAPA CV boot clamps and it was the muffler, a much simpler issue to solve.

I am having trouble finding the NAPA part number, I have a photo of the last install, and two more clamps but I can't find the part number. The clamp is the biggest problem in my book. $16 for a replacement oem clamp on a bad oem part is just wrong.

I'll add the photo and the part number when I find it

20141031_185658_zpsbjgctlqr.jpg
 
I'm gonna try a different solution on the exhaust bolts....I'll put a couple tack welds with the Mig welder just to prevent the bolts from turning....easily removed with a Dremel if need be...haven't tried it yet though
I put Red loc-tite on my 350. It's a shelf queen, so who knows if I'll ever have problem with it!
 
The old style brackets are NLA. Husqvarna references new style bracket # HUS 54480980. Less than $4.00. If you are looking for ipl's that give part numbers, just go to any online parts source like parts tree and look them up. I prefer to buy the parts from my local dealer though.

It's funny, I thought I was going to get questioned about the NAPA CV boot clamps and it was the muffler, a much simpler issue to solve.

I am having trouble finding the NAPA part number, I have a photo of the last install, and two more clamps but I can't find the part number. The clamp is the biggest problem in my book. $16 for a replacement oem clamp on a bad oem part is just wrong.

I'll add the photo and the part number when I find it

20141031_185658_zpsbjgctlqr.jpg
The Husky steel clamp at my dealer is just a little over $2. I file a little bevel on the tiny latch part and it goes together much easier!
 
The old style brackets are NLA. Husqvarna references new style bracket # HUS 54480980. Less than $4.00. If you are looking for ipl's that give part numbers, just go to any online parts source like parts tree and look them up. I prefer to buy the parts from my local dealer though.

It's funny, I thought I was going to get questioned about the NAPA CV boot clamps and it was the muffler, a much simpler issue to solve.

I am having trouble finding the NAPA part number, I have a photo of the last install, and two more clamps but I can't find the part number. The clamp is the biggest problem in my book. $16 for a replacement oem clamp on a bad oem part is just wrong.

I'll add the photo and the part number when I find it

20141031_185658_zpsbjgctlqr.jpg
Good stuff, but have never paid close to $16 for the Husky clamp. Like Cat said, it's just a couple bucks. The clamp and new partition together was around $10-12, or less last I bought.
 
A video... 350 to 346 hybrid.


I posted over in "Modded work saws" a playlist documenting two other 350 builds and a pile of shop notes.
And there is a wealth of info on those saws sprinkled throughout this website from many way more knowledgeable than I. I think of these saws as "instant gratification" saws. Easy to work on, easy to mod, and great runners once built understanding their strengths and weaknesses.

Three Achilles heels... (Try running with three legs! ) OK three area's that can cause issues:
1) Under the "Bearing" caps, that aluminum cup that squeezes the bearings& crank and is what the cylinder is bolted too. They almost always leak between the plastic cases and aluminum bearing cap. Especially the ones with the "course" thread screws. I use a "flat plate" and emery cloth to take the warp out... 1194 to seal. AND a side benefit is you can do the same to the cylinder side to adjust squish.. :)
2) Those plastic cases get melted BAD when the muffler rattles loose. MORE common on the 45mm versions than the 44mm open port versions.
3) plastic clamp to intake boot. You can make them work with a mod, but they relax and loosen over time. Then the resultant air leak toasts a perfectly good saw.

ALL of the above are fixable and I think this series are about the best to learn the saw tweaking game as they are cheap, parts are available; and there are many sources of parts from new OEM, to used parts saws, to Aftermarket. AND since there are many variations on the chassis, you can swap top end parts from "higher" spec models such as the 346 back to the entire series of those saws. 345,350,353,346OE,346Xp etc...

Sound like an advertisement for 350's yet?? Love this series of saws. A great way to learn the hobby
 
Sorry, when I bought oem it was the kit that included the boot, that's what I paid $16 for. I broke an ear on the clamp trying to latch it. Ever since I have been using the NAPA part because it's easy to set the size of the ring and then a pair of bull dikes pulls it permanently tight.


I used a die grinder to drill a hole and cut a slot where I was able to add a screw to the "streached" plastic clamp. TIME will tell if it survives! Wonder if we could just cut away some of the plastic and use a thin hose clamp to save that $16 dollars OEM solution?

Got pics of your solution? Can it be applied to the old clamp? Might save a guy a bunch of time and $10 bucks a saw..
 
I used a die grinder to drill a hole and cut a slot where I was able to add a screw to the "streached" plastic clamp. TIME will tell if it survives! Wonder if we could just cut away some of the plastic and use a thin hose clamp to save that $16 dollars OEM solution?

Got pics of your solution? Can it be applied to the old clamp? Might save a guy a bunch of time and $10 bucks a saw..
It's very simple to clip the plastic clamp off then be sure to file ALL high spots around where the steel clamp will sit. Use the Husky steel clamp!
That's an EXCELLENT video above!
 
Bingo! Love that build concept.. :) (Check out fugly one 350)

Just the muffler rattling off needs to be addressed with those 45mm 353 style cylinders. Working on some solutions. First a strip of sheep metal and standard hex vs. allen head muffler screws/bolts. Using the strip for tabs that can fold up on the flats... another doing the old safety wire after drilling holes through the screw caps with carbide drills. And have one with a 346 brace after cutting one leg off... I've also heli coiled up to 6mm x 1 .... as these things mature maybe some posting will happen. I just want to have some time on the saws before posting. Hard to run three at once!
 
I had a 350 that was going to be my hot-rod, junker, tractor saw, but sold it to a bud before I got to tweak it.
Maybe I need to pick up another? There is a ugly one at the pawn shop here...
 
I still don't understand the 346 bracket idea, I like the idea but my 346 bracket will not reach over to the pto side mount?????????
 
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