Bombing down big blocks

[Lumberjack]

What is yalls personal fav for when it comes to blocking (and bombing) down bigish wood say 2'6" and up?

I like a mismatch cut also known as the snap cut. It is very effective on big wood that has little to no forward lean, and is very easy to cut. With a foward lean the snap cut can "stall out"and be hard to break, but a light bouncing on the lanyard will normally get it free.

I normally use the snap cut but I have also started cutting all the way through in one swipe and then pushing it off. I do that some on peices that have a foward lean, but to prevent it tearing down, I leave the right back side intact, starting at my left shoulder rolling the saw throught the wood and then coming back to finish off the piece. That way I dont have to worry about the piece peeling down and draggin me down the tree.

On really big pieces nothing beats a small hinge and/or a tagline.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

It depends on the wood and the size.

If it is real long then a hinge makes it easier to break out.

Cutting cookies I usually gust go right through on a slight angle so the fall off.

If log lenght is not a big deal you get a feel for how long the need to be for your hight to land flat. i'm told there is an equasion for the size/hight to get the perfect rotation

 

[xtremetrees]

Id like to know that equasion JPS.
I know the Humbolt or the unside down notch aids me greatly in getting smaller peices to lay flat, it gives me time to get my hands on the wood and push it downward. I also get less spar movement with the upside down notch.

 

[NickfromWI]

The equation of which you speak can be found in the bible....

I have to go find some banana leaves. I'll see if I can dig up the equation later.

love
nick

 

[MasterBlaster]

Its not a formula so much as ratios.

 

[MasterBlaster]

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

ratio of .18

so from fo 50 ft the optimal piece is 9ft long, and 25 ft is 4.5 ft

 

[NickfromWI]

Thanks MB, you da man!

 

[MasterBlaster]

Didja find those leaves?

I found mine!

 

[Reed]

Many chunking variables!!

When doing pines and no timber salvage....

I chunk 'em every 1.5 to 2.5' depending on the diameter and how far what kind of groundie(s) can carry each one away and load 'em. Here's the helpful hints part that'll probably get me into trouble with the two-hands-on-saw folks:

Left hand on upper or top edge of chunk, saw all the way thru, knowing when that perfect "rock forward and then back" to release the saw pinch allowing it to eject the blade completely thru the cut. It's severed, and you employ a "zen" movement that kills the saw switch, swings it right back to your belt loop and hooks on, and your now free right hand can help rock or roll the chunk to any tragectory you want to control it's drop on. Then take a breather and gaff down to the next one, repeat.

The faster the crew hauls out of the drop zone the quicker the spar comes down and you're loaded and outta there even before the sap starts pumping all over everything.

On all other trees it's a situational proposition. Carry all the stuff in case of any challenge.

 

[coydog]

if it's light enough to man handle i'll cut all the way through straight accross, if it's really thick and heavy I'll cut a little over halfway trough, then shove a twig in each side slightly past the halfway point and snap it off, then proceed to cut straight across and through, gravity rocks it back ever so slightly off the bar, then the twigs act as rollers to get a good shove in the right direction. This works good on a flushcut too.

 

[ORclimber]

For pushing off big blocks. I'll cut until the kerf starts to close, usually almost all the way through. Then go around the backside and make a short lower cut so its kind of a snap cut. then walk back ot the other side and push the round off. If they're really heavy, I use a pry bar to get them moving.

 

[rbtree]

All those techniques work. But how many of you have tried this: As the kerf is closing, back off with the bar a bit a couple times. This will cut a bit of wood out of the kerf, making a nice little space for the bar, and allow you to cut through, even as the chunk sits down. Works great.

Edit, I think oakwilt described the same technique. As well, he also mentioned another MM, and Arbormaster, ANSI nono, one handing....oh my I'd never do that......haha

See my new thread in chainsaws... my 7900 just made the shortest quickest work of two firs ever!! And I 100% guarantee you bigjohn, riggs or any of you hotshots with a Hobbs could not have lowered long sections in anywhere near the same time. I say screw lowering big trunk wood..unless absolutely necessary. Besides, the wood had to be cut anyhow, and it is 80-90% as fast to do in the air as on the ground.

PS, we had the Hobbs, 3/4 and 9/16th lowering lines all ready, but I had dug out a lot of perennial plants and made an adequate though very small drop zone. We lowered most all the limbs, but free dropped all the wood.

That said, I'm may go in with another tree co. and buy a GRCS. I can't have that scum wiley_p the only guy in town with one. Of course he wouldn't have a clue how to use it.....

 

[rbtree]

As far as ratios go, and short wood, that is all child's play. when the real action starts, as Gerry describes in his great book, is when the logs being dropped are 26-40 feet long.

Being a certified arborist and loving tree preservation, I don't think it is bragging, maybe more i should have my tail between my legs, but I wonder if any CA logs as much as me?

not RB Wan......

 

[Reed]

Arrrrghhh!!!!

(as expressed by Tim the Toolman Taylor)

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I like to block down firewood hunks too. While you cut the ground crew loads the last piece, then when you're done cutting all the woods loaded. I'm ok with not loading wood.

 

[rborist1]

:Eye:

 

[ORclimber]

QUOTE]Originally posted by rbtree
All those techniques work. But how many of you have tried this: As the kerf is closing, back off with the bar a bit a couple times. This will cut a bit of wood out of the kerf, making a nice little space for the bar, and allow you to cut through, even as the chunk sits down. Works great.
[/QUOTE]

That's how I was taught from day 1. Gave it up for some reason, can't remember why. So that's what Oakwilt was describing. Masterblaster recommeded it as a technique for cranework on another thread. Must have merit with all those endorsements, I, for one, will give it another shot.

 

[TimberMcPherson]

I prefer to carve off all the green, clear it (if you dont need it to pad out the area) and then make it rain firewood. 020 then 044 and then 066 if needed.

With really heavy slabs I carry a nail prying crowbar which is made of flat steel with me in the tree, gives good leverage while being pretty light. I have been meaning to try a handful of marbles to slide the slab off to! Gotta say that I hate slabbing off once the 40inch on the 66 isnt big enough!

 

[rbtree]

TimberM,

I've used a round dowel, as in broken rake handle, etc to slide blocks off. Gotta have a crowbar of some size to lift the chunk high enuf to slide the dowel in.

Havent needed to do that in years, but it works well for any situation, including a tree in a deck.