mexicanyella
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for giving that info a bump...
Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about
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conarco13a
ArboristSite Lurker
I bought this saw refurbished little over a year ago, I had read this reviews before i did, so it feels right to leave some feedback. Its my first saw so i can`t tell you much.
i`m liking it so far and works good for my homeowner use. i do feel some symptoms of CAD
every now and then.
the saw starts pretty good, it does die on me a lot the first minutes i think it has to do with the fact that I don`t use it too often. i do run it till dry before storage but still feels like it`s burning old fuel or crap the first minutes and dies in iddle or in full throttle all the same. once hot runs good. if you let it cool off the same day or the next day it runs good as well, hence my theory.
also if you get it too hot
it seems not to like it much, that happens after a full tank or 5/8 of a tank, and the saw stops. but you can get it started again. i don`t get it too hot now after realising that. or it might be a carb thing i don`t know, i have it factory set.
i`m in my 3er or 4th tank i think.
comparing the pro saw of friends of mine of course you can tell the difference, but there is also a price difference!.
as it`s been mentioned
the bar does seem a bit long for the engine, bugs down or stalls if you use to much of the bar at the same time. and the teeth of the sprocket seem to show some were
i took this pics this week
i had to take down some young eucalyptus that were growing from a stump, half were leaning the right way, the others the opposite direction. i used a rope and a chinese come along
to "encourage" them rebels
of course you can see mistakes in the techniques and so on. i try to learn from them, it was my first time pulling with a rope. some notches were too small etc. i`ll do better next time.
i`m liking it so far and works good for my homeowner use. i do feel some symptoms of CAD
every now and then.the saw starts pretty good, it does die on me a lot the first minutes i think it has to do with the fact that I don`t use it too often. i do run it till dry before storage but still feels like it`s burning old fuel or crap the first minutes and dies in iddle or in full throttle all the same. once hot runs good. if you let it cool off the same day or the next day it runs good as well, hence my theory.
also if you get it too hot
it seems not to like it much, that happens after a full tank or 5/8 of a tank, and the saw stops. but you can get it started again. i don`t get it too hot now after realising that. or it might be a carb thing i don`t know, i have it factory set.i`m in my 3er or 4th tank i think.
comparing the pro saw of friends of mine of course you can tell the difference, but there is also a price difference!.
as it`s been mentioned
the bar does seem a bit long for the engine, bugs down or stalls if you use to much of the bar at the same time. and the teeth of the sprocket seem to show some were
i took this pics this week
i had to take down some young eucalyptus that were growing from a stump, half were leaning the right way, the others the opposite direction. i used a rope and a chinese come along
to "encourage" them rebels of course you can see mistakes in the techniques and so on. i try to learn from them, it was my first time pulling with a rope. some notches were too small etc. i`ll do better next time.
mexicanyella
ArboristSite Operative
Wow, Argentina? I guess I never realized Poulans were distributed outside of North America. Cool.
So those are young Eucalyptus trees? There's a type of wood I've never cut before!
I have done some extended cutting on some 20+" oak trunks in 95 degree July heat, and did not encounter any heat-related running problems once I leaned out the super-rich factory carb setting mine came with. I lived with the rich running for the first few tankfuls, thinking it would provide additional lubrication and cooling during break-in. Retuning the carb to run correctly after the first few tankfuls woke that saw right up. The symptoms you describe sound like carb tuning issues to me. Make sure your air filter's clean--mine gets dirty pretty quickly--and watch the excellent, concise saw carb tuning Youtube vids a page or so back in this thread...do that with your saw and I'd bet your heat-related running issues go away.
So those are young Eucalyptus trees? There's a type of wood I've never cut before!
I have done some extended cutting on some 20+" oak trunks in 95 degree July heat, and did not encounter any heat-related running problems once I leaned out the super-rich factory carb setting mine came with. I lived with the rich running for the first few tankfuls, thinking it would provide additional lubrication and cooling during break-in. Retuning the carb to run correctly after the first few tankfuls woke that saw right up. The symptoms you describe sound like carb tuning issues to me. Make sure your air filter's clean--mine gets dirty pretty quickly--and watch the excellent, concise saw carb tuning Youtube vids a page or so back in this thread...do that with your saw and I'd bet your heat-related running issues go away.
conarco13a
ArboristSite Lurker
we also have the craftman version of this saw.
yes, those are young they can grow quite large, both in height and in diameter the thing is they have shallow roots so if it rains a lot on season the wind can take them. but they make nice firewood, good strong heat, middle sized flames, good hot coals and not a lot of ashes. they are fast growers too. but once dry is hard to split them and the grain is not straight.
i might attemp to set the carb in the future but i think i`ll wait a few more tanks.
i read here some people put some silicone sealant to protect the air filter but i cant underestand where
yes, those are young they can grow quite large, both in height and in diameter the thing is they have shallow roots so if it rains a lot on season the wind can take them. but they make nice firewood, good strong heat, middle sized flames, good hot coals and not a lot of ashes. they are fast growers too. but once dry is hard to split them and the grain is not straight.
i might attemp to set the carb in the future but i think i`ll wait a few more tanks.
i read here some people put some silicone sealant to protect the air filter but i cant underestand where
mexicanyella
ArboristSite Operative
If you flip off the wire bail that holds the filter element on the filter base and lift off the filter element, you'll see that there's a groove molded into the filter and base where the two mate. Some 5020 users have reported seeing traces of sawdust inside the filter, sticking to the oily fuel residue, as I'm sure you've read. Applying a bead of silicone to that mating groove eliminates the insufficiently tight fit provided by that wire bail.
On my 5020, I saw sawdust leakage sticking to the inside of the filter base and on the strato intake butterfly, and once I saw how often I'd be cleaning the smallish filter element, I decided to try a thin bead of grease in the mating groove, not silicone. Seemed quicker and easier--I just use the little grease gun I keep in the case for greasing the bar tip sprocket. When I do that I do not see sawdust getting past the mating groove. The fuel mist hovering around inside the filter seems to dissolve any grease that squeezes out to the inside of the groove...I guess the engine gradually ingests it and burns it or passes it through. What little grease remains in the groove when I clean the filter is easy enough to clean up with a little solvent and an old toothbrush.
On my 5020, I saw sawdust leakage sticking to the inside of the filter base and on the strato intake butterfly, and once I saw how often I'd be cleaning the smallish filter element, I decided to try a thin bead of grease in the mating groove, not silicone. Seemed quicker and easier--I just use the little grease gun I keep in the case for greasing the bar tip sprocket. When I do that I do not see sawdust getting past the mating groove. The fuel mist hovering around inside the filter seems to dissolve any grease that squeezes out to the inside of the groove...I guess the engine gradually ingests it and burns it or passes it through. What little grease remains in the groove when I clean the filter is easy enough to clean up with a little solvent and an old toothbrush.
TheBunz
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi all! New to site and chainsaws, so after a little research on the Poulan PP5020, I decided to pick one up for my first saw because they are on sale right now for $99 at Lowe's! Went there and they didn't have any left besides the display model with no chain. Asked if I could buy that and I got it for $45! Picked up a new chain for it, just the recommended Oregon.
I will post some pics and video later this Monday when I go stress test it. Any quick tips for a beginner with this saw?
I will post some pics and video later this Monday when I go stress test it. Any quick tips for a beginner with this saw?
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
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7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Get some PPE!!! (= personal protection equiment = chaps, helmet, eye- & ear protection, chainsaw proof boots)!!! That is recomended minimum and all together real cheap compared to any visit to the doctor/hospital. And besides you already saved a bunch of money so there still should be enough left over.
Further stress and chainsaws are no good mix, so just go at a relaxing pace and use what is between your ears before choosing your cut.
good luck!
7
mexicanyella
ArboristSite Operative
The Bunz...a 5020 for $99? Wow. And for $45 without a chain? Super Wow. That's a screaming good deal.
As far as quick tips, I'm going to sound like SNL's Debbie Downer but I don't mean to be condescending, or anything (and I realize that "beginner with a saw" can describe a whole range of native ability or lack thereof).
My main tip would be to keep it firmly in the front of your mind that while a 5020 is not a pro logger saw, it is still a powerful and aggressive tool for someone who is not expereienced at chainsawing in general. It can bite/maim/kill you in an instant if you space out or get distracted while operating it. It has pretty large cutting teeth, even with the low-kickback chain, and those combined with the fairly powerful and revvy engine, can grab very abruptly and unpredictably and yank the saw (and you) around. Especially on small, whippy branches that you're trying to clear in a hurry as it's getting too dark to see but you want to finish the damn job tonight etc. etc. In short, it's a pretty big and demanding first step, compared to starting out with a little saw with a smaller-toothed chain, lighter weight, a shorter bar etc. Lots of people have survived starting off on saws this size and bigger, but be more careful and alert than you've ever been with anything, and the protective equipment suggestion above is a great one.
I'd also advise you to saw with a helper/partner, particularly one who is more experienced than you with saws, if you know someone like that. Learn how to sharpen your chain and consume everything you can about how to approach different cutting situations, and also learning to recognize which ones are above your ability level at any given moment.
All that is a tall order and sounds discouraging, but it's a learning process and if you embrace that you'll stand a better chance of telling saw stories later in life while still attached to all your body parts. Eventually the learning will be fun, even if it's not now.
As far as quick tips, I'm going to sound like SNL's Debbie Downer but I don't mean to be condescending, or anything (and I realize that "beginner with a saw" can describe a whole range of native ability or lack thereof).
My main tip would be to keep it firmly in the front of your mind that while a 5020 is not a pro logger saw, it is still a powerful and aggressive tool for someone who is not expereienced at chainsawing in general. It can bite/maim/kill you in an instant if you space out or get distracted while operating it. It has pretty large cutting teeth, even with the low-kickback chain, and those combined with the fairly powerful and revvy engine, can grab very abruptly and unpredictably and yank the saw (and you) around. Especially on small, whippy branches that you're trying to clear in a hurry as it's getting too dark to see but you want to finish the damn job tonight etc. etc. In short, it's a pretty big and demanding first step, compared to starting out with a little saw with a smaller-toothed chain, lighter weight, a shorter bar etc. Lots of people have survived starting off on saws this size and bigger, but be more careful and alert than you've ever been with anything, and the protective equipment suggestion above is a great one.
I'd also advise you to saw with a helper/partner, particularly one who is more experienced than you with saws, if you know someone like that. Learn how to sharpen your chain and consume everything you can about how to approach different cutting situations, and also learning to recognize which ones are above your ability level at any given moment.
All that is a tall order and sounds discouraging, but it's a learning process and if you embrace that you'll stand a better chance of telling saw stories later in life while still attached to all your body parts. Eventually the learning will be fun, even if it's not now.
cornfused
Saw & Firewood HACK
Very sound advice above. My 5020 is the most dependable saw I own...starts easy and runs well. Don't fear it, but do respect it for what it is: a very usefull tool that can also be very dangerous. Great deal on your saw....enjoy!!!
ncpete
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At $99, everyone who buys one of them gets a serious "You Suck!", and $45? + $25 chain - for $70 all in on the saw. That is a stupid good deal.
mexicanyella
ArboristSite Operative
Seems like a pretty good deal to me...especially if these 4820s (not seen that model yet myself) are actually the same powerhead as the 5020. I say that but have to admit I have about zero understanding of how Canadian dollars relate to US ones.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
ncpete
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If you can get the Efco, new, in 56cc displacement for $200, please turn me onto your source
They cleared them efco out labeled under cub cadet at TSC one time way back too.
zogger
Tree Freak
I checked my local lowes, absolutely no pp5020AVs on sale here, full price only, and they don't even carry them in stock anyway, just the smaller poulans. Double rats, I was gonna scoot over and snag one.
