Bought a splitting axe on Thursday.

[alleyyooper]

Well I used that fiskars (super split 36) splitter yesterday (Friday). I was disappointed, with the raving reviews I expected the wood to fall apart in fear. Didn't though, I first tried in on some 20 inch dia 4 years seasoned Ash, bounced off would not even chip off the edges, wedges and sledge is what will work there. Some 18 inch stuff took more than one strike despite the thing on the handle that says one strike split. I figured with the raving reviews it had some kind of laser guide so a second swing went in the same spot or in the same line at least, but it didn't. You still have to take a healthy swing and depend on your eye to aim correctly for the second strike. It just isn't a super natural high tec device I guess. But when you think about it being a one strike and split device it would not need that laser guide.

It works and is lighter than a 8 pound maul or 10 pound sledge but you still have to swing it a lot to split seasoned Ash bigger an about 10" in dia.
Maybe it will work better when the wood freezes in the winter but right now I just am not impressed for the cost.

Al

 

[Deleted member 135597]

Swing harder

 

[Erik B]

Swing harder

Maybe it is like a chainsaw and needs to be broken in for awhile before it starts to split good

 

[zogger]

Myself and others have posted this before, it's different than a maul. It might take you some time to actually get the correct speed and aiming to do it. It's high speed versus heavy and slow like a traditional maul. Muscle memory will screw you up at first big time. I have used an analogy before, rem 7mm magnum vs 45-70 government. Both get the job done well, just differently, although they are both similar tools.

I know it took me way into my second cord before I was really ripping with mine (original 28 inch super splitter, never tried an x27), although I had very good results at first doing mostly fresh cut standing dead oak. It also could be your first choice of wood, I've never tried splitting 4 year old ash, and the ash itself makes a difference, dragged out of the forest straight grained with very minimal branches except at the very top of the crown, or edge of field or in a a field twisted with lots of branches. Heck, just doing pine here, on the *same tree*, some splits..like easy pine, the rest I noodle, doesn't even want to split with sledge and wedge.

 

[dancan]

I'll give you 5$ , you pay the shipping .




LOL
OK 10$

 

[alleyyooper]

I can return it to the store for a full refund if I do it with in 30 days.
This Ash is/was standing stuff in the woods that had died from 2 to 4 years ago I cut down a couple days before I bought the splitting axe.

Probably do just that return the axe make some ramps and roll the stuff on the trailer and get it to the power splitter that way.

Al

 

[square1]

It's your wood, sounds like you have gotten ahold of some sorry ash
Seriously though, I've been cutting & splitting between 10&15 cord a year of dead standing ash for the past 6 years. Do 90% of the splitting with an X27. The other 10% is anyone's guess what it's going to take to make it into firewood

 

[Marshy]

What you find out is technique matters (still). If you didn't have any/good technique to begin with then the x-27 isn't going to change that. I've split plenty of 20" rounds in maple, ash and even elm, some easier than others. Did it take one swing, no but I think it took a comparable number of swings or I'm some cases less and when you compare the weight beig 2 lbs less you really are saving work. That being said, it helps to hit he same spot twice.

 

[MuskokaSplitter]

Gor me i really like the x27. I bought 2. Also a x25. But that doesnt mean i dont use my 8lb maul. I use the fiskars on some 12 in. seasoned ash and that was some tough stuff to split. i find that the fiskars splits most wood better when its wet. Any wood under 18" wet i havent had trouble splitting. Ironwood, oaks, soft/hard maple. Elm, yellow/other birches, the knotty pine/spruce ill usually leave for the maul or hydro.
The x27 does req a lot of speed which i get by using a sort of whipping action with my wrists. Being light i have and can split ALL day. Im tired in an hour with the maul.

This is the best splitting tool i have used when used for whats its meant for. Im not throwing the maul away it just doesnt get used very much.

The metal is a little soft and chips/dents rather easy if you hit a nail or rock. But it does sharpen easy.

 

[MuskokaSplitter]

What you find out is technique matters (still). If you didn't have any/good technique to begin with then the x-27 isn't going to change that. I've split plenty of 20" rounds in maple, ash and even elm, some easier than others. Did it take one swing, no but I think it took a comparable number of swings or I'm some cases less and when you compare the weight beig 2 lbs less you really are saving work. That being said, it helps to hit he same spot twice.

I split some 24" maple with the x27. 3-5 good whacks down the center splits it in half. I think thats pretty good.

Red oak 30" i could split with 2-3 swings. Im impressed with that personally.

 

[dancan]

I just like the fact that I'll never have to replace the handle , ever
Is it the magic splitter , no it isn't , it's just a well made tool .
It is a big shame that they don't bring the mauls into North America , I think they would sell .

 

[benp]

I can return it to the store for a full refund if I do it with in 30 days.
This Ash is/was standing stuff in the woods that had died from 2 to 4 years ago I cut down a couple days before I bought the splitting axe.

Probably do just that return the axe make some ramps and roll the stuff on the trailer and get it to the power splitter that way.

Al

That's what I would do then Al, if you can get a full refund then no harm no foul.

No sense in fighting something trying to make it work for you when you'll most likely wind up frustrated.

I've done that with a few pistols. lol

 

[Dogsout]

I've split plenty of 20" rounds in maple, ash and even elm, some easier than others.

I split all of my wood with a 35 ton Speeco splitter and have never split wood by hand. Knowing what it takes to split Elm on a hydro splitter I can't help but call BS splitting a bunch of it by hand regardless of what type of splitting maul you are using. At least with the hydro you can push the stringy crap right on through with the next piece, where as with hand splitter you would be chopping at those strings for ever. (JMO)

 

[Marshy]

I split all of my wood with a 35 ton Speeco splitter and have never split wood by hand. Knowing what it takes to split Elm on a hydro splitter I can't help but call BS splitting a bunch of it by hand regardless of what type of splitting maul you are using. At least with the hydro you can push the stringy crap right on through with the next piece, where as with hand splitter you would be chopping at those strings for ever. (JMO)

Call BS all you want but I do and have split a lot of elm by hand and there are plenty of other who do as well. However, not ALL elm can be split by hand but you'd be surprised how much can be after noodled in half and let seasoned for 8-9 months. It still comes down to technique.

 

[turnkey4099]

It's your wood, sounds like you have gotten ahold of some sorry ash
Seriously though, I've been cutting & splitting between 10&15 cord a year of dead standing ash for the past 6 years. Do 90% of the splitting with an X27. The other 10% is anyone's guess what it's going to take to make it into firewood

That's about my ratio on the locust and willow process...of course willow is a snap to split. Rejects on to the splitter and stuff that won't split into neat pieces there get noodled.

Harry K

 

[alleyyooper]

Never had a chunk of any type of wood my power splitter would not split or cut. Did have a chunk of Ash once with a funny looking double crotch that twisted the beam while pushing it thru. had to do a mod job on the beam to get it back fairly straight again.

By the way this is the SUPER SPLIT 36 not the X27.


Al

 

[svk]

By the way this is the SUPER SPLIT 36 not the X27.

They are one in the same.

 

[CWME]

It took me a while to get the hang of it. Let the wrist snap over center at the last second which whips the head down. I can't get the same action with the X27, handle is too long for me. I have the original and the X25, the narrower head of the original splits better for me. More force concentrated on the smaller face is my thought on why. They are not magic bullets though. A fair amount of stuff goes through the hydro splitter.

 

[zogger]

It took me a while to get the hang of it. Let the wrist snap over center at the last second which whips the head down. I can't get the same action with the X27, handle is too long for me. I have the original and the X25, the narrower head of the original splits better for me. More force concentrated on the smaller face is my thought on why. They are not magic bullets though. A fair amount of stuff goes through the hydro splitter.

Yes, anything to increase the speed, and I agree the original pure wedge shape is superior. You can also drop your body, bend at the knees and drop, just a fraction of a second before estimated impact, that gives more speed and focus. Fiskars is really a technique splitting axe, it doesn't work with just brute force, the technique has to be in the mix. With that said, yes indeedy, some wood just SUCKS to hand split, doesn't matter what tool is in your hands. For moderate to easy wood though, fiskars is the fastest and easiest I ever tried.

 

[svk]

Fiskars is really a technique splitting axe, it doesn't work with just brute force, the technique has to be in the mix. With that said, yes indeedy, some wood just SUCKS to hand split, doesn't matter what tool is in your hands. For moderate to easy wood though, fiskars is the fastest and easiest I ever tried.

You nailed that one.

Even a year ago around here brawls would break out if anyone brought up the fact that Fiskars needed a different "technique".