Break in ques

[Stihl 041 super]

Can I use Amsoil Saber oil at 80-1 100% sythetic oil to comfortably break in my bike? Or any other two stroke engine?

 

[MacDaddy]

I wouldnt use any oil at 80-1 I would go back to 50-1 and call it good only snake oil runs 100-1

 

[2Coilinveins]

I'm with MacDaddy, I wouldn't run a Lawnboy mower @ 80:1.

 

[Grande Dog]

I recommend using a non synthetic oil through the break in period. Synthetics are so slick that rings might not seat properly.

Grande Dog
Master Mechanic
Discount Arborist Equipment and Tree Care Supplies

 

[2Coilinveins]

Something else occured to me. Is this a new bike? Or a fresh rebuild? Any warranty issues?

 

[Stihl 041 super]

Nope fresh rebuild. Its an 1985 IT 250.

 

[2Coilinveins]

Neat. I just picked up an IT465 in rough shape. Hoping I don't kill myself on it.

 

[NWCS]

i would never use less oil than 50:1 unless im willing to destroy an engine (im not) and most of the time i use 32:1.. i have several fav saws that only run 32:1 race oil because they are like my kids.. in all my customer saws i ONLY run 50:1 stihl mix because thats the standard to use in my area and i can tune to what the customer will run. i tried that 100:1 type stuff before and it took out the rings on an old Yamaha DT-1 250cc bike i used to have..
in my experiance, i say running less oil than 50:1 is suicide.. stick with the solid known 50:1, 40:1 or even 32:1. oil wise, something meant for AIR cooled 2cycle engines, like stihl, husky, or some of the motorcycle brands. no outboard motor stuff.

 

[Stihl 041 super]

First of all 100-1 is for lite duty stuff and second of all I wouldont even go
near 100-1 in ant thing third of all I run 80-1 and thats severe duty oil mix according to amsoil.

 

[MacDaddy]

I dont care what amsoil claims if its so good why dont all companys that produce 2 strokes recomend it Call any engine builder and ask if they even run amsoil or anything close to 80to1 most race engine builders run 32to1 and probably some type of caster oil Im sorry but i would use it for bar oil and buy something else Yamalube 2r is good,caster 927,klotz super tecniplate,are some of the best mix oils you can buy

 

[NWCS]

after all the amsoil claims ive seen.. and the problems it can cause... their products have never been run in my equipment, and never will be..
few friends have trashed 2cycle engines with that stuff after they got sucked into the ratio claims.

 

[Stihl 041 super]

Its because amsoil is 100% sythetic. most other brands are semi synthetic.
I have already tried most of the other brands and amsoils the only one that made my small engines run smooth never foul plugs kept the heat down.
I was running one of my old crap saws on stihl 50-1 mix and the was piston slapping like crazy like all you could hear was the piston slapping. I took it apart and checked it and the piston to cyl clearance was 25 thou. I put it all back together and put amsoil at 80-1 in it problem solved no slap. so I think amsoil is the best money can buy.

 

[MacDaddy]

Oil bridges the gap on your piston and cyl and the lack of oil that amsoil gives you will not solve the problem and as far as heat friction builds heat and lack of oil builds friction It also sounds like your are a amsoil dealer so if you are count me out not even for worst enemy

 

[Stihl 041 super]

I am not an amsoil dealer I am just a user. Also the amsoil is way more slipperier than the other oils so I doubt that you or any one else would squeak an engine on it at 80-1. If you feel this stuff and feel the stihl mix stuff the stihl stuff feels rough but the amsoil feels smooth in your fingers. Ive used this stuff in my 1985 it 250 since I bought it 2 years ago and ive run it as hard as I could possibly run it wide open for 3 hours straight every weekend then about 3 weeks ago I decided to try regular stihl mix at 32-1
and run it as hard as I did with amsoil and I nearly ceased it after 1 hour.
So I think amsoils pretty good.

 

[MacDaddy]

You still sound like a amsoil dealer

 

[woodsrider]

Nope fresh rebuild. Its an 1985 IT 250.

I think I'd go Yamalube at 32:1, at least for break-in. I've never gone leaner than 50:1 on any of my offroad motorcycles (I've had a "few" -- Yamahas, Huskies, KTMs, etc., etc.).

 

[begleytree]

You still sound like a amsoil dealer

Yes he does! And you won't hear anyone here tell you stihl oil is great stuff either, so your comparison means squat. Most folks here have moved on to semi or full synthetic mix oils, have their brands they use (klotz for me) and no amount of lies will make them start using amsoil! You want to run it, great. I ain't buying it.
-Ralph

 

[Mike mandry]

Its because amsoil is 100% sythetic. most other brands are semi synthetic.
I have already tried most of the other brands and amsoils the only one that made my small engines run smooth never foul plugs kept the heat down.
I was running one of my old crap saws on stihl 50-1 mix and the was piston slapping like crazy like all you could hear was the piston slapping. I took it apart and checked it and the piston to cyl clearance was 25 thou. I put it all back together and put amsoil at 80-1 in it problem solved no slap. so I think amsoil is the best money can buy.

25 grand piston clearence ?? & amsoil fixed it. It must be good stuff. Im going to get as much as I can

Id like to see an engine run with 25 thou piston clearence.

Personally, I would have used that new additive they sell at Autozone called Fix a piston.

I used it in my old 302 ford that lost compression in 3 cylinders.

now its up to 180 PSI in all 8 & runs like new.

It can burn rubber for 75 yards too.

 

[MacDaddy]

rings in a can they have two types chrome or cast

 

[Mike mandry]

Yep, good stuff also.

Ive also used the fix a bearing. Spin a bearing, no problem.

Just pour fix a bearing in your oil (Amsoil of course)

It will actually resurface your crank & rebuild the bearing surface while you drive.

You have to take it easy for about 100 miles or so, but after that your oil pressure will be up to spec. & your good to go.