Broke the cardinal chainsaw rule... Now sparks fly

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cnice_37

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So I lent my little Jonsered to my neighbor with more body ailments than I care to keep track of. He owns 2 455 ranchers and bucking with those wears him down.

He claimed the chain kept working loose so I took it home. What I find now is sparks were flying at the bar tip with a moving chain. The rails are extremely worn, but most interesting is the sprocket at the tip has so much play it would seem the rivet must have snapped internally.

I got this saw in a lot buy and I liked it and kept it as my limber. I made my money back so its basically free. The bar very well could have been worn prior, but I cut with it maybe two tanks of gas and aside from needing a new chain (which it received) the sprocket was fine.

So.... I might be able to true up the rails but how do I deal with that rivet? As I understand these are made to be replaced so what's the procedure? Probably going to price out a new bar as well. Saw runs great, sounds great, and cuts well for the vintage so it's staying in the stable... Just not really free anymore.

Thanks as always with my novice questions. Merry Christmas
 
Since we are on the topic of replacing tips. How does one go about doing one on a stihl rollomatic bar? I do not need to do this yet but I have four of these and I'm sure I will at some point.
 
You would be better off to buy a new bar than to replace the roller tip and true up the rails. With the age and amount of use this little saw has seen it is time for a new one.
 
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Sometimes digital compression and my eye problem don't mesh
So keep that in mind.

Seems like a couple hunks out of the top rails and they look to be worn unevenly.
Right side looks thicker or has a big burr.
the nose possibly looks pinched where it's closest to the saw handle,
But that could be the way the light is shadowed there.

If I'm way off base forgive me, I'm just trying to keep a check of my peepers calibration
with these observations.
but this all could be my eyes screwing with me again.
 
it is impolite to handle another mans rifles saws or wife. Even if offered, one should refuse the rifles & saws.

Thanks for demeaning women. We can mostly make up our own little minds on what we want to do.

I will gladly lend my saw, rifle and dog to some of my friends. They probably know more about those three items than the combined knowledge of this thread. That "never loan your saw" is B.S.

OP, buy a new bar.
 
My golden rule is never lend my saws to ANYONE that way is if something goes wrong I have no one to blame but myself :D

I think I have to disagree with you slowp. It's not BS. When you drop $500+ on a quality tool that provides for you (heat for my home), I'm not lending it out. I'll come over and help out, but I'm running my saw. Even a cheap, backup saw has a purpose - Be available in the event of the primary saw going down.

Too many times, I watched my dad lend out tools to his skilled nephews only to see them returned in horrible condition. These were guys that used tools for a living and took care of their own, but everytime they returned them they would be abused. Dad would end up spending his time to repair or clean what they messed up. Finally he said no more and I have to agree with him. I know that isn't always how it happens, but I learned a lesson that not everyone cares about your equipment like you do.
 
I was taught to never lend out anything you "have to have back". The key words is "have to have back". I have lent many things including money out over the years & seldom have been burned. When I go to work parties I always have extra tools on hand for those willing to work but don't have the tools & frequently the experience. Rather than thumb my nose at these willing helpers, I prefer to provide tools, instruction, & hopefully turn the event into something so enjoyable they will be willing to repeat. Have I lost tools over the years? Yes. I expect to have some misplaced & damaged. This is not a problem. My only request to those using my stuff is to let me know when something is broken so I can fix it. Again if it is something I "have to have back", I don't bring it or just use it myself.
 
Some regular Oregon sprockets can be replaced, but in practice, it can be hard to find the right parts.

From the description of the rest of the bar, a new guide bar is probably the way to go.

That said, I have pulled and replaced the nose sprocket on a few consumer bars that were bound up with string, etc . Instructions used to be in the Oregon Maintenance and Safety manual.

It is worthwhile to try, even if you plan to scrap the bar, just to see how it all goes together.

Drive (or drill) out the center rivet. Slide out the sprocket assembly over an old towel - there should be two main pieces and about 40 tiny roller bearings that want to fly everywhere.

Reassemble everything on a 3X5 card and slide it back into place as a unit. Replace the rivet with an OEM one, one from the hardware store, a cut down nail, etc.

STIHL nose sprockets are sandwiched between thin, circular, shims. Not sure how to hold those in place during reassembly (Super Glue? thread?).

Philbert
 
Thanks for demeaning women. We can mostly make up our own little minds on what we want to do.

I will gladly lend my saw, rifle and dog to some of my friends. They probably know more about those three items than the combined knowledge of this thread. That "never loan your saw" is B.S.

OP, buy a new bar.

My wife picks out her own firearms and we agree on dogs. She doesn't run saws. Thanks for lumping all men into the asshat category. :rolleyes:
 
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