Broken high jet carb stihl 064

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If it aint shifting- you need a bigger hammer. :lol:
True but really its the quick snap/jar that breaks them loose, I sure nuff have popped my share off with a ball pein and a brass drift, heck even a few with the back end of a hatchet when working on one out in the bush but I don`t recommend that all across the board.
 
Good arguments as usual. This isn't a saw i would like to bust.
The other stihl's I worked on before (019t, 034, 036, 038) where a lot easier to remove the flywheel off.
It's just a little bit harder to get hold of the specific puller as my dealer for stihl himself doesn't like to sell them (at least a year ago).
I'll be trying to convince him again next saturday.
I will just add that there were , There is a slew of them listed on eBAY more than a few motorbikes that used that same puller, Puch comes to mind and others that ran Bosch flywheels I have been told.
 
I remove them and make slotted caps on the lathe to fit over them and epoxy them on
Thanks for the update.

Was hoping for some good news. You got pics of the high and low needles?


Saws tuned and finished now. It's just got some mods and the caps are pulled out. Sounds good now. No more white spark plug and an early death.

I'd like to find OE or sumtin for us that is a replacement or have Louie da chip make some and spread them around a bit. I have not time to machine things these days plus he is all setup nice for anything tedious or challenging. He does this stuff everyday. R&D guy is his day job. Me, I just want screws that fit.
 
Thanks for the update.

Was hoping for some good news. You got pics of the high and low needles?


Saws tuned and finished now. It's just got some mods and the caps are pulled out. Sounds good now. No more white spark plug and an early death.

I'd like to find OE or sumtin for us that is a replacement or have Louie da chip make some and spread them around a bit. I have not time to machine things these days plus he is all setup nice for anything tedious or challenging. He does this stuff everyday. R&D guy is his day job. Me, I just want screws that fit.
I don’t have any pics. There’s just a long D shape sticking out. Like 1/3 of the jet extends all the way out. Pain in the ass
 
I don’t have any pics. There’s just a long D shape sticking out. Like 1/3 of the jet extends all the way out. Pain in the ass
Not the outside post the inside portion with the threads and needle to measure them. My L is already cracked in half at the top so I'd rather not remove it now. Customer wants it back tomorrow to buck for the firewood buss. It's the ends that matter to me. I'll see if new ones can be had from a dealer or used to get something currently made to update them. Could be the same as another flat head or better adjuster shape. This is crap cut in half.
 
Not the outside post the inside portion with the threads and needle to measure them. My L is already cracked in half at the top so I'd rather not remove it now. Customer wants it back tomorrow to buck for the firewood buss. It's the ends that matter to me. I'll see if new ones can be had from a dealer or used to get something currently made to update them. Could be the same as another flat head or better adjuster shape. This is crap cut in half.
No I don’t have any pictures of them or know what other sizes might fit
 
I will just add that there were , There is a slew of them listed on eBAY more than a few motorbikes that used that same puller, Puch comes to mind and others that ran Bosch flywheels I have been told.
Wow, sorry about the 'where' and 'were', my English writing isn't as good as it used to be...

On the other hand: got the flywheel separated this evening! Used a pulley puller and it came right off.

I plan to change the cranck seals while i'm at it, but the one on the flywheel side is really deep in the case, i hope i don't have to split the case to replace these? I assume they come off like on the smaller, older stihl's and splitting the case isn't needed?
The bearings are in good shape, so I won't be replacing them.
 
Wow, sorry about the 'where' and 'were', my English writing isn't as good as it used to be...

On the other hand: got the flywheel separated this evening! Used a pulley puller and it came right off.

I plan to change the cranck seals while i'm at it, but the one on the flywheel side is really deep in the case, i hope i don't have to split the case to replace these? I assume they come off like on the smaller, older stihl's and splitting the case isn't needed?
The bearings are in good shape, so I won't be replacing them.
No need to split the case on any vertically split Stihl crankcase.
 
Stihl sells a specialty tool to pull the seals from a fully assembled crankcase but only Stihl Techs need them, most of us just use a modified screwdriver to pull the seals like the ones pictured below,
4341-c7e0e4647bef608fd4bce9763bb6bcc4.data
 
Thanks! Already made myself a similar tool for getting the seals out off a 034, works just fine.

New Carb parts came in today so hope to start working on the saw this weekend.
Was just wondering as i am replacing the 2 jets: does it take any sort of loctite when reassembling the high and low jet in the carb?

And maybe a weird question, but when i play around with the start handle/controll (off/running/high idle/choke), i notice there seem to be only 3 different positions (normally four, as in forementioned off/running/high idle/choke). Is this normal on this type of stihl? If so, how do you start this engine without flooding it when engine is hot?
I think i'm missing something. Or perhaps something broke on the switch itself. But the cover doesn't have any notches/indicators like on more modern models, so not sure...
 
3 positions…Off, Run, Choke (which also sets hi idle).

To get Hi Idle with no choke, set the choke and lift the lever to Run without touching the trigger. Sometimes this feature doesn’t work well on the older 1122 saws
 
Thank you for replying.
Was a bit of a noob question, sorry about that.
But here to learn.
 
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