Building a chainsaw workshop - Ideas, Comments, Suggestions...

[Jwalker1911]

What do you think the woods is for??

Thats fer bears to poop in.

 

[Zombiechopper]

Regarding PVC, it is specifically prohibited for use as air line. The pressure rating and strength of glue joints aren't the issue. The problem is that air typically contains oil and that along with the pvc creates a situation where the pvc can "explode" and send shrapnel everywhere. In your own personal shop at home, if you use pvc it is not likely anyone would gig you on it. It wouldn't make it safe, it would just be unlikely to be a legal issue. If pvc is used for air anywhere that OSHA might inspect or have jurisdiction over, I am pretty sure the fines and penalties would far outweigh the cost savings and ease of installation that pvc provides. Black pipe is the standard for air lines and there are other types of approved lines. I personally use air hose to plumb my drops. It isn't as cheap as pvc but is easy to run anywhere and way simpler to install than pipe (which I have also used in the past). I would strongly discourage anyone from using pvc for air that isn't buried underground. Just because something "works" doesn't make it safe and pvc for air is an application that has been determined to be "unsafe".

What I found is that PVC is recommended to 100psi max for air. ABS is fully rated for air.

I feel very comfortable with schedule 40 PVC, especially in a home shop that probably isn't going to see high pressures. I think isolating the plastic line from compressor vibration with a section of hose would be wise.

 

[Bigdgb]

Regarding PVC, it is specifically prohibited for use as air line. The pressure rating and strength of glue joints aren't the issue. The problem is that air typically contains oil and that along with the pvc creates a situation where the pvc can "explode" and send shrapnel everywhere. In your own personal shop at home, if you use pvc it is not likely anyone would gig you on it. It wouldn't make it safe, it would just be unlikely to be a legal issue. If pvc is used for air anywhere that OSHA might inspect or have jurisdiction over, I am pretty sure the fines and penalties would far outweigh the cost savings and ease of installation that pvc provides. Black pipe is the standard for air lines and there are other types of approved lines. I personally use air hose to plumb my drops. It isn't as cheap as pvc but is easy to run anywhere and way simpler to install than pipe (which I have also used in the past). I would strongly discourage anyone from using pvc for air that isn't buried underground. Just because something "works" doesn't make it safe and pvc for air is an application that has been determined to be "unsafe".

I dont think we are talking about normal pvc that you would use like downpipe or conduit,Not all PVC is the same, the oil has nothing to do with it, there is proper pressure rated pvc for air line and over here they do not use glue on the fittings or joints they use compression joiners that screw together,
Most of our Water, Sewer and gas pipe in Australia is PVC or poly and that withstands a lot of pressure,

 

[Zombiechopper]

I dont think we are talking about normal pvc that you would use like downpipe or conduit,Not all PVC is the same, the oil has nothing to do with it, there is proper pressure rated pvc for air line and over here they do not use glue on the fittings or joints they use compression joiners that screw together,
Most of our Water, Sewer and gas pipe in Australia is PVC or poly and that withstands a lot of pressure,

same here. It's been many years, but when I worked plumbing even new construction water mains were PVC. Those were 8" diameter.

 

[Steve NW WI]

From an OSHA bulletin (full bulletin HERE if you want to read it.

Furthermore, sections 842.32, 842.43 and 849.52(b) of the American National Standards Institute/American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ANSI/ASME) B31.8-1986, Gas Transmission and Distribution Piping Systems Standard, limit the operating pressure of plastic piping distribution systems to 100 pounds per inch (psi) and prohibit the installation of such systems above ground except where ". . . the above ground portion of the plastic service line is completely enclosed in a conduit or casing of sufficient strength to provide protection from external damage and deterioration."

The issue isn't whether it will hold the rated pressure, it's what happens when deterioration or physical damage weaken it to where it won't hold the pressure being applied to it. It will shatter and send shards of plastic across the shop.

There are plenty of "plastic" lines out there that install as easy or easier than PVC and are rated for compressed air use. I'm going with steel, because I'm used to working with it and I'm comfortable with it.




Now for a quick progress update, I've got the longer 2x4s I need, picked up at Menards last weekend while I had the trailer, going to get the rest this weekend, all shorter stuff that will fit in the back of the truck. I'm stripping some excess pieces off the skids, and I found some 4" thick patio blocks to use for foundation pads. Hopefully by this weekend I can get the skids set and leveled, and maybe build some walls, but that depends on what I can scrounge for windows & a door cheap, not going to build and then tear apart again when I get a window a different size than I planned on originally.

I'll get some pics of what I've been tearing off the skids tomorrow, the guys building these were REAL trigger happy with the nail gun!

 

[Jim Timber]

At least someone else knows what stretching and drying fur is. As for money if that is why you do it then you are in it for the wrong reason

Sorry, I hadn't checked this thread in a few days.

No money for the materials to build the shed - the money fur brings at auction is more like gas money to subsidize my hunting/trapping addiction. I'm not looking to make a living at it, but we do have some over fed coons that are probably worth $15 in Canahodia at the auction. We don't have enough fox to kill any yet, but they're making a come back, and I need them to clean up the over abundant mouse population before I reduce their numbers. Our yotes are too busy harassing deer to bother with field mice. I can't go 50' in the woods at night without seeing a mouse. In the day, it's more like 100. :msp_thumbdn:

Mainly I'd like someplace to work when dealing with game, and somewhere to store traps in the off season that isn't stunk up with my other activities scent.

 

[Jim Timber]

I have the same problem with the, old style, larger diameter flourestents not coming on in 40-50f temps. A sparky friend suggested the newer 1" diameter tubes to fix the cold weather problem. Anybody using the NEWER 1" diameter tubes in cold weather??
THANKS

Yep, and they light off down to -20F just fine in my unheated garage.

 

[Streblerm]

I have the same problem with the, old style, larger diameter flourestents not coming on in 40-50f temps. A sparky friend suggested the newer 1" diameter tubes to fix the cold weather problem. Anybody using the NEWER 1" diameter tubes in cold weather??
THANKS

The tubes arent the problem it is the ballasts. you need cold weather fixtures that have cold weather ballasts. The old magnetic ballasts would usually start slow and then eventually make enough heat to come on fully. The newer electronic ballasts make little to no heat so if the dont come on 100% right away then that is all you are going to get out of them. They either won't come on or will flicker. To upgrade to the newer small tubes you need to upgrade your fixtures.

I'm using 100W cfl bulbs in my garage. They were easy to install and work fine in the cold. I'm talking true 100 watters not the 23w/100w equivilant. these are almost the size of a 2 liter pop bottle. They can be had for around $25 a piece from an electrical supply house and screw into a standard base fixture. Their light output is similar to an 8' fixture

 

[Warped5]

Now for a quick progress update, I've got the longer 2x4s I need, picked up at Menards last weekend while I had the trailer, going to get the rest this weekend, all shorter stuff that will fit in the back of the truck. I'm stripping some excess pieces off the skids, and I found some 4" thick patio blocks to use for foundation pads. Hopefully by this weekend I can get the skids set and leveled, and maybe build some walls, but that depends on what I can scrounge for windows & a door cheap, not going to build and then tear apart again when I get a window a different size than I planned on originally.

I'll get some pics of what I've been tearing off the skids tomorrow, the guys building these were REAL trigger happy with the nail gun!

Habitat for Humanity runs ReStore shops all over the country. If the one nearest you is like ours, there are always windows and exterior doors in there. You'd easily be able to get a window and door for under $100.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Habitat for Humanity runs ReStore shops all over the country. If the one nearest you is like ours, there are always windows and exterior doors in there. You'd easily be able to get a window and door for under $100.

I have 2 of em close by, and they'll be my first stop this weekend.
I'm sure the ReStore will have other goodies I'll want for the shed as well, cabinets, etc.

I actually have a line on a steel entry door from one of my friends, just haven't negotiated price yet. The same guy has some of the cheaper metal shelving units too, just gotta talk "package deal" price with him.

 

[TXcowboy]

From an OSHA bulletin (full bulletin HERE if you want to read it.



The issue isn't whether it will hold the rated pressure, it's what happens when deterioration or physical damage weaken it to where it won't hold the pressure being applied to it. It will shatter and send shards of plastic across the shop.

!

This is correct. It has nothing to do with the pressure rating of PVC but the fact that as PVC ages it becomes brittle, especially when exposed to the elements and UV light. Take a look at a piece of PVC that has been laying around exposed for a few years. New PVC will be flexible and bendable, whereas the older it is, the more ridgid and brittle it becomes. I am sure a lot of you have seen PVC used for outside water faucet risers in a yard. At first they are flexible and move around even just turning the faucet on and off. Give it a few years and just barely bumping into it and it snaps off.
When used as air line, PVC will hold the pressure fine and will work for a while but then after a few years something as simple as a 2X4 leaned against the wall falls over and bumps the pipe, or a rolling tool box gets shoved back against it and it explodes. It doesn't just poke a hole in it and cause an air leak. It will split and shatter and you will have PVC shrapnel being driven by 100psi flying around. I have seen an instance in a shop that was plumbed with PVC air drops running down the wall from an overhead line. The mechanic had a air hose plugged into it and laying on the floor and tripped on it, causing the hose to pull tight against the QC on the end of the PVC drop. It didn't just snap the quick coupler off or break the Tee on the end. The pipe cracked and shattered over about a 3 foot length of the drop. We found pieces of pipe 20 feet across the shop.

 

[andydodgegeek]

Paint as much white as you can. Walls, floor, ceiling, workbench. Makes it much easier to see and looks clean. Having 2 doors one east and one west works well for me in my shop. Makes it nice for cross breeze. Think of prevailing winds and shade.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Paint as much white as you can. Walls, floor, ceiling, workbench. Makes it much easier to see and looks clean. Having 2 doors one east and one west works well for me in my shop. Makes it nice for cross breeze. Think of prevailing winds and shade.

Doors are gonna go on the north and east sides. It will be fairly close to another shed on the west side, so that's out. White will be the color of the day inside, would Dolmar Orange with black trim be too tacky for the outside :big_smile:

 

[hangfirew8]

Doors are gonna go on the north and east sides. It will be fairly close to another shed on the west side, so that's out. White will be the color of the day inside, would Dolmar Orange with black trim be too tacky for the outside :big_smile:

You won't regret White the inside color. I painted my garage interior white, it was drywall light grey before. I didn't think it would make a big difference, but it did. Everything is better lit, and it feels cooler in Summer (can't prove it).

HF

 

[Jim Timber]

I painted my shop walls battle ship grey. They hide the dirt really well.

I just used white primer on my ceiling. Pleased with that as well, but do wonder if semi gloss would reflect even better?

I used 22ga steel siding for my garage ceiling in whatever shade of white wasn't an up-charge, and that was unreal how much it improved over the bare wood trusses. It looks nice too.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Sumpthin like this maybe. Never did take a pic of the TV I have on the wall.

 

[kodiak]

Taller workbench

Not sure if it's been mentioned, but I'd suggest making at least part of the workbench "bar height" meaning around 42" high. Doing delicate work on a countertop height workbench gives me a sore neck.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Jim - does the steel ceiling make it "noisier" in the shop? I'm planning on cheap paneling inside, walls and ceiling.

Mike - nice lookin shop! I like the vintage look. Maybe I'll be able to find a couple old signs for decoration in this one. I'm thinking of a high shelf like yours to display my old saws on as well.

Kodiak, I have a bench down in the basement that works well that I built last winter, I believe it's 40" but will check for sure. It beats the heck out of working bent over, or sitting down and having to stand up when you need a better look at something.

Hope I can get some work done on it this weekend, but it sounds like I'll be working most of it. That ain't all bad, but it's irritating.

 

[Jim Timber]

There's 7"+ of fiberglass behind the steel, so it doesn't resonate. The garage is only 20x24, and has a 12x8' hole in the back wall that goes to my shop. The garage doesn't hold sound waves well to begin with because of those irregular walls.

 

[Simonizer]

On a farm forum I frequent, you'd be stoned to death, revived, and stoned again for using PVC. It has a nasty habit of sending shards of plastic flying throughout the shop if it breaks. I'll go with sch40 steel pipe in mine.

1/2" copper pipe is awesome for plumbing air.