Building a log splitter with a vertical shaft questions

[04Bmals]

I have a mower I rebuilt a while back just to keep as a spare on From a walk behind mower. It’s a Kohler command pro 18hp CV493. I plan on running 28GPM 2 stage pump 4” cylinder 2” rod 24” stroke. With a log lift and hydraulic 4-way wedge. I have search the forums and I can’t seem to find someone with the same problem as me. I have no mounting holes above my crankshaft besides my motor mounts, What would be the best way to mount the pump. Thank you in advance for any help.

 

[Wood Hound]

Well,you should NOT use that engine-you want your pump direct connected with a adapter..
Splitters are so cheap now,why not just go buy one and you will be splitting wood..

 

[ktmtigger]

Some enjoy using something we make instead of buying

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk

 

[Wood Hound]

Yes,i have seen some of this backyard stuff...

 

[TRTermite]

Get a 3/8" plate - mount pump to plate - another plate to mount the motor to and it needs to extend under the output shaft so you can weld pump plate to it Of course you will need to get the pump shaft in line with the motor shaft. This is easy to do if you have the lovejoy couplers in place and use them to visualize alignment.
Do it right and be proud of it, I have seen some of the store bought stuff come through my shop to be repaired but if you build your own I doubt it will be at some other fellers shop if it needs fixxin'
28 GPM is going to make that 4" cyl move right along.
And no You don't have to have the pump attached direct with an adapter if you have some mechanical savvy. have FUN

 

[04Bmals]

Thank you, I wasn’t sure if there was horror stories of people trying it and it failing. Any recommendations on a cylinder? I see on surplus they have a ton, some are cheap with same specs as one 300 dollars more.

 

[Patrick62]

10-4 on the build your own adapter. I have done it several times. It's easy.
Cut up a hunk of plate to fit the engine. cut up another hunk of plate to fit the pump. WIth the coupler on the shafts you hose clamp a bit of sheet metal around the coupler, that gets you into the close proximity. Slice up some small 1" angle iron make them the same lengths as required for this as "legs" between the plates. A fine job, it is all nice and square? Grab the MIG and tack the pieces together. she turns good? Nice job, pull it apart and do your welds and paint it up purdy.

Ain't nothing wrong with building a splitter. It builds character.

Pay close attention to the size of ports of a 4 inch cylinder vs the 28gpm pump. if you run the engine a tad slower you might get away with 3/4" ports. You don't want to restrict the flow, it builds heat (a bunch of it). I had a splitter with a 22gpm pump, 3/4 ports and hoses, 5 inch cylinder, and a 8 second cycle time. and she'd do 22 tons and bend the beam some.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Take a 3/8'' aluminum plate and mark the holes. Lay your regular pump mount on that then grind very accurately to fit. When welding the two together great care must be taken because the the two will warp a little. A little filing or shim will bring it into specs. I some cases you will have to grind the mount so it is close enough to the motor. Thanks

 

[Del_]

Go with a 5 inch cylinder.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Belt drive

 

[04Bmals]

Go with a 5 inch cylinder.

I think I am going too cycle time wouldnt be that much slower. Do you have a recommendation on a cylinder surplus has a bunch with same specs but big difference in price

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

Belt drive

Is belt slippage a concern?

 

[Wood Hound]

You should never run a HYD. pump with a belt...

 

[abbott295]

Why not? Isn't that what a power steering pump is?

 

[Wood Hound]

Your not thinking about the task or work the pump is doing..

 

[Patrick62]

belt drive would not really help anything. The engine can take it, but the bearings in the hydraulic pump are not designed for the side load.

I would use steel plate, and you could look up where the peak torque of that engine is, most likely less than 3600. Adjust the governor to a hundred above that. It will pull like a locomotive, and use less fuel.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Is belt slippage a concern?

I'm sure there's a small bit of slippage, it's impossible to not have any, but V belts can transmit hundreds of hp.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

belt drive would not really help anything. The engine can take it, but the bearings in the hydraulic pump are not designed for the side load.

I would use steel plate, and you could look up where the peak torque of that engine is, most likely less than 3600. Adjust the governor to a hundred above that. It will pull like a locomotive, and use less fuel.

All sorts of pumps are belt driven on equipment. Is it really a big deal if a $150 pump lasts only 5000hrs instead of 7000hrs because of side load? I bet the splitter will be dead (or the owner for that matter) before anyhow. If it's really a concern, can put an overhung adapter on it.

Have a 30ft conveyor with 8000+ hrs on it, on the 3rd 5hp engine, same pump.
Also have a wood splitter setup with a belt driven pump. Came from the factory like that.

 

[Patrick62]

Over $400 for a pump, 28 gpm 2 stage. I'd direct drive it.
The creator can build it anyway he wants to.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Not all pumps are created equal. Some can take the load from a pulley and some can not. Choppy is correct in that many are driven with a pulley. I prefer direct drive and it is not hard to take a regular pump mount and weld a aluminum plate that bolts directly to the motor. Thanks