Building My First Mill
- Thread starter 820wards
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Did a little more on the mil today. I finally finished my bathroom remodel. Momma is happy and so am I.
Here is a muffler I fabricated for the mill I'm building. I am using an 820 PowerBee motor, 135cc, as a power head for the mill. I had to build an exhaust pipe so I was able to have it exit away from the operator as it is running. The exhaust port on the motor is 2-1/2" long and 1" wide. I cut the flange out stainless steel with a plasma cutter and the pipe pieces from a piece of 2" diameter muffler. When I flattened the 2" pipe it spread out to the 2-1/2" I needed for the flang. I also built the spark arrestor from a piece of stainless steel screen mesh rolled up to fill the 2" diameter end. I used some additional SS screen mesh to make a containment screen and then made a containment strap from some 18 gauge steel that I used like a hose clamp to hold the screen on the end of the pipe. It holds the rolled up screen in the pipe. I used SS screen because it will never melt with the heat of the exhaust. I'm hoping it will sound real good!
I also started the chain tensioner which I should finish this week. After that I will need to work on an air filter system. The motor is a 135cc's, so I'm thinking I will need a pretty large filter for this motor. Does anyone have any suggestion for a good filter? I can machine a flange to fit any filter diameter I would use. I'm thinking tall an not too large in diameter.
Attached are pictures of the muffler pip and the spark arrester.
jerry-
Here is a muffler I fabricated for the mill I'm building. I am using an 820 PowerBee motor, 135cc, as a power head for the mill. I had to build an exhaust pipe so I was able to have it exit away from the operator as it is running. The exhaust port on the motor is 2-1/2" long and 1" wide. I cut the flange out stainless steel with a plasma cutter and the pipe pieces from a piece of 2" diameter muffler. When I flattened the 2" pipe it spread out to the 2-1/2" I needed for the flang. I also built the spark arrestor from a piece of stainless steel screen mesh rolled up to fill the 2" diameter end. I used some additional SS screen mesh to make a containment screen and then made a containment strap from some 18 gauge steel that I used like a hose clamp to hold the screen on the end of the pipe. It holds the rolled up screen in the pipe. I used SS screen because it will never melt with the heat of the exhaust. I'm hoping it will sound real good!
I also started the chain tensioner which I should finish this week. After that I will need to work on an air filter system. The motor is a 135cc's, so I'm thinking I will need a pretty large filter for this motor. Does anyone have any suggestion for a good filter? I can machine a flange to fit any filter diameter I would use. I'm thinking tall an not too large in diameter.
Attached are pictures of the muffler pip and the spark arrester.
jerry-
Mill Finished Time To Make Sawdust!
Well Guys/Gals,
I finally finished building my mill. Only need to add the air filter and get a couple of chains made, and then tear it down to paint.
Here is a link to my pictures of the mill.
http://s450.photobucket.com/albums/qq222/820wards/Mill/
I built the mill using an 820 PowerBee, 134cc 2-stroke motor. I had to build an oiling system that would oil both ends of the bar simultaneously because this is not a chainsaw that has an internal oil pump. The oil pump is a clutch master cylinder from a small car with a juice clutch. I then made the oil reservoir from an aluminum canister. The gas tank was made from 3031 aluminum sheet rolled and capped with fittings. The clutch is from an original WARDS 820 Chainsaw and the drum is made from the WARDS drum and another drum that utilizes the .404/7 drive system. I had to build a special mandrel to hold both pieces aligned so I could hard silver solder them together.
So now I've come to the part of this built that I need your expertise on milling chain. I have searched the many threads on ripping chain. I have read that the Oregon chain stretches too much and I haven't seen anything about the Woodland ripping chain that Baileys sells, then there is the Stihl chain.... So I pose this question to you all.
What chain should I start out with on this mill?
TIA
jerry-
Well Guys/Gals,
I finally finished building my mill. Only need to add the air filter and get a couple of chains made, and then tear it down to paint.
Here is a link to my pictures of the mill.
http://s450.photobucket.com/albums/qq222/820wards/Mill/
I built the mill using an 820 PowerBee, 134cc 2-stroke motor. I had to build an oiling system that would oil both ends of the bar simultaneously because this is not a chainsaw that has an internal oil pump. The oil pump is a clutch master cylinder from a small car with a juice clutch. I then made the oil reservoir from an aluminum canister. The gas tank was made from 3031 aluminum sheet rolled and capped with fittings. The clutch is from an original WARDS 820 Chainsaw and the drum is made from the WARDS drum and another drum that utilizes the .404/7 drive system. I had to build a special mandrel to hold both pieces aligned so I could hard silver solder them together.
So now I've come to the part of this built that I need your expertise on milling chain. I have searched the many threads on ripping chain. I have read that the Oregon chain stretches too much and I haven't seen anything about the Woodland ripping chain that Baileys sells, then there is the Stihl chain.... So I pose this question to you all.
What chain should I start out with on this mill?
TIA
jerry-
Last edited:
mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lots of threads and posts here about ripping chain.
I use the Bailey's chain.
Nice metal fab on your mill, by the way.
I use the Bailey's chain.
Nice metal fab on your mill, by the way.
parrisw
Tree Freak
About your chain. First I wouldn't use .404, its not necessary, and takes a bigger cut. 3/8 would be better, can you change your rim sproket? I always use just standard oregon chain and grind it to 5deg.
** Thanks, I can thank my Dad for teaching me. He was an engineer and made sure I did thing right. I learned to gas weld when I was 10yrs. old. I had some pretty cool looking double decked bikes when I was a kid.
jerry-
** About 60 lbs. with no fuel/oil. I can move it pretty easy but, I'm thinking of adding wheels that I can removed when I'm transporting it to where I'll be milling.
jerry-
parrisw
Tree Freak
Yes.
Thanks Parris,
I think I'm going to try the Woodsman chain from Baileys to start out with. I can buy a 25' spool of chain that I can make 3 chains from and the tools to put the chains together. When I talked to Art Martin last, he said he would show me how to put the chains together.
jerry-
Worked on the carb to air filter adapter today on the lathe. Sure was hot in the shop all day. It was 100+ easy...
jerry-
jerry-
Looks good 
. . . . but . . . . . doh, that filter's right where I like to lean with my leg onto the mill. I suppose you could look to see if you could put a guard or handle over the top of it!
. . . . but . . . . . doh, that filter's right where I like to lean with my leg onto the mill. I suppose you could look to see if you could put a guard or handle over the top of it!
Looks good
Good point. I'll look at that tomorrow. Don't plan to be leaning against the carb. I can easily make something that would keep me from leaning against it.
Thanks
jerry-
