Vibes the website is www.americanmsr.com .I believe they are located in NY. I bought the 25HH with the log pans, 4way and 6way for roughly what a tw2 cost with no accessories.
Buying splitter, what should I look for?
- Thread starter Vibes
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Look for one of these. Ive had em all this ones the cats ass
LNG24
ArboristSite Operative
Yes indeed, but the Cats A$$ sure is expensive!
Vibes ,if youhave not found a splitter yet . Here is more informatiom to add to the confusion.
here's a used TW5 listed on craigslist for $4,000
timberwolf tw5 logsplitter - $4000
Reply to: see below
Date: 2008-01-02, 1:09PM EST
2000 timberwolf logsplitter tw5 11 hp honda with 4 way wedge hasnt seen alot of wood brand new is $6800 first $4000 takes it machince can do a cord an hour with two people call gary at 413 455 8429
http://westernmass.craigslist.org/tls/526011138.html
timberwolf tw5 logsplitter - $4000
Reply to: see below
Date: 2008-01-02, 1:09PM EST
2000 timberwolf logsplitter tw5 11 hp honda with 4 way wedge hasnt seen alot of wood brand new is $6800 first $4000 takes it machince can do a cord an hour with two people call gary at 413 455 8429
http://westernmass.craigslist.org/tls/526011138.html
LNG24
ArboristSite Operative
RATS!!! $4,000 looked like a decent price...
been checking Timberwolf's website for info on TW5.
that is one impressive splitter!
really like how four way splitter has a hydraulic adjustment.
liftgate would be a must for me.
oh.. well you never know, a used TW5 could pop up local at a decent price. :greenchainsaw:
been checking Timberwolf's website for info on TW5.
that is one impressive splitter!
really like how four way splitter has a hydraulic adjustment.
liftgate would be a must for me.
oh.. well you never know, a used TW5 could pop up local at a decent price. :greenchainsaw:
woodchuck361
ArboristSite Guru
Is it better to push the wedge into the wood or to push the wood into a fixed wedge? I like the push the wood into the wedge option because a table can be placed at the end to hold the other half of the log once split. Is there a drawback to this?
Wet1
Addicted to ArboristSite
^ Typically this makes it nearly impossible for the machine to be able to do vertical splitting.
ziggy2b
ArboristSite Member
vibes
If you want something that is good on gas that will split anything that comes your way.............. Look at split-fire.com there made in canada and they know a few things about splitting wood. In fact I think you could do custom wood splitting where you live for other people?
I've had mine for eight years and never had a problem with it and made money or wood on the side. It is well worth your time to check it out..
I all most forgot(it's fast):jawdrop: Time is money period!!! the more wood you split the more money you make.
And the price is resonable................................................
If you want something that is good on gas that will split anything that comes your way.............. Look at split-fire.com there made in canada and they know a few things about splitting wood. In fact I think you could do custom wood splitting where you live for other people?
I've had mine for eight years and never had a problem with it and made money or wood on the side. It is well worth your time to check it out..
I all most forgot(it's fast):jawdrop: Time is money period!!! the more wood you split the more money you make.
And the price is resonable................................................
oneoldbanjo
Addicted to ArboristSite
I personally prefer the wedge moving and the plate stationary. The way I split is I pick up the wood from my trailer that is about 24" high and carry it over to the splitter, then I split the wood and immediately carry it into the wood shed. The splitter is placed right at the door to the woodshed and the trailer is right next to the splitter - I don't have to bend over for any reason. My log splitter is an Iron and Oak 26 ton Horizontal and Vertical model with the log cradle. With most rounds that are small enough for me to lift I can split a round and push the other half over to the log cradle - I don't split very small as I have an OWB.
Before I bought my splitter I used a tractor mounted splitter that had the wedge mounted to the frame and the cylinder pushed the log. The problem I had with it was that when the wood is split it is pushed beyond the wedge and you had to retrieve the split wood and drag it back to the area between the wedge and cylinder to resplit. It seemed to be a lot more work to me as with my splitter all the wood stays right in front of me while splitting.
I have noticed however that all the commercial splitters for processing large quantities of wood have the wedge stationary and they all push the wood off the end of the splitter....into a big pile. I guess for these to work efficiently you might have to use a table at the end.....or have a splitter wedge that can split the wood into multiple pieces (4 or 6).
Before I bought my splitter I used a tractor mounted splitter that had the wedge mounted to the frame and the cylinder pushed the log. The problem I had with it was that when the wood is split it is pushed beyond the wedge and you had to retrieve the split wood and drag it back to the area between the wedge and cylinder to resplit. It seemed to be a lot more work to me as with my splitter all the wood stays right in front of me while splitting.
I have noticed however that all the commercial splitters for processing large quantities of wood have the wedge stationary and they all push the wood off the end of the splitter....into a big pile. I guess for these to work efficiently you might have to use a table at the end.....or have a splitter wedge that can split the wood into multiple pieces (4 or 6).
milkie62
ArboristSite Guru
My experience
I have used the same splitter for 18 yrs now.I will give you my opinions.#1 you cannot build a splitter much cheaper than you can purchase from northern tool.Their basic splitter is hard to beat for the price.Plus not very many people have a 4x24 cylinder,2 stage pump,and proper valve laying around.It pays to have the proper setup with filters,the right hoses and fittings,decent wedge ,etc,etc. Well anyway I use a 11 gpm pump with a 4x24 cylinder.I use a 5 gallon tank with auto tranny fluid from Walmart . No problems in 18yrs. I also have an 8 HP Briggs motor hooked to it.Grade 8 hardware all the way on the slide and cylinder mts.My system pegs at 2350 psi.VERY few times has it pegged it to split.Most of the time it is between 550 and 1100 psi.Crotchy oak and elm are the toughest and most of the time it goes right thru it.If everyone that was in the market for a splitter would just check out the specs they would see that there is generally no difference between a 22 ton and a 27 ton splitter.The manufacturer just turns the pump pressure up a little and charges more.The only real way to increase power is to go from a 4" to a 5" cylinder.Increasing pressure will only cause problems down the road.And a faster pump could cause injury if the cylinder cycles to fast.IMO a 4x24 cylinder with a 11 gpm pump is plenty for MOST wood.I split up to 30" rounds.If you need more power jump up to a 5" cylinder and 16 gpm pump.Like I said I copied a Northern splitter 18 yrs ago and everything is still original and working fine.Back in 1990 it cost me $600.00 to build my splitter.The only thing I would change is to build it taller since I am 6'2" and I am in the process of adding a 4 way wedge and log lift.
I have used the same splitter for 18 yrs now.I will give you my opinions.#1 you cannot build a splitter much cheaper than you can purchase from northern tool.Their basic splitter is hard to beat for the price.Plus not very many people have a 4x24 cylinder,2 stage pump,and proper valve laying around.It pays to have the proper setup with filters,the right hoses and fittings,decent wedge ,etc,etc. Well anyway I use a 11 gpm pump with a 4x24 cylinder.I use a 5 gallon tank with auto tranny fluid from Walmart . No problems in 18yrs. I also have an 8 HP Briggs motor hooked to it.Grade 8 hardware all the way on the slide and cylinder mts.My system pegs at 2350 psi.VERY few times has it pegged it to split.Most of the time it is between 550 and 1100 psi.Crotchy oak and elm are the toughest and most of the time it goes right thru it.If everyone that was in the market for a splitter would just check out the specs they would see that there is generally no difference between a 22 ton and a 27 ton splitter.The manufacturer just turns the pump pressure up a little and charges more.The only real way to increase power is to go from a 4" to a 5" cylinder.Increasing pressure will only cause problems down the road.And a faster pump could cause injury if the cylinder cycles to fast.IMO a 4x24 cylinder with a 11 gpm pump is plenty for MOST wood.I split up to 30" rounds.If you need more power jump up to a 5" cylinder and 16 gpm pump.Like I said I copied a Northern splitter 18 yrs ago and everything is still original and working fine.Back in 1990 it cost me $600.00 to build my splitter.The only thing I would change is to build it taller since I am 6'2" and I am in the process of adding a 4 way wedge and log lift.
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