Cabling the Cracking Maple

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treeseer

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first pic is a crack that opened just this summer.
The smaller trunk is failing. Attached is a picture with red lines where the trunk could be cut back to (all cuts to lateral branches, and leaving enough foliage to keep the stem alive) and an orange line where a cable could be installed.

Comments?
 
Please explain your rationale for getting all whackedee Treeseer, Don't you trust your own rodding and cabling abilities enough to let a more natural heeling process take place with your capable guidance and support?

Respectfully

jomoco
 
Lot of wood for only one cable, any reduction on the larger stem planned or all the work only on the one over the road? Also crack looks older than one year, how much decay in the split are you looking at?
 
"Please explain your rationale for getting all whackedee

Sudden cracking and high target rating. also that stem seems to be dclining so its time to head off the dieback. lots will be left.

Lot of wood for only one cable, any reduction on the larger stem planned or all the work only on the one over the road?
yES MAYBE 20% of the sprawl off the other
Also crack looks older than one year, how much decay in the split are you looking at?
cable holds 7 tons. re decay, Good question--it's in your city and i have only seen those pics. wanna :help: me do it on the 13th?
 
my experience with maples.. if its is doing that how bad is the rot inside the tree? we had one by the house that looked good but was 75% hollow on the inside. its a nice looking specimens but you might be delaying the inevitable.. or the tree failing and falling on a car or house or injuring someone.
 
With the parties involved in this I know that a proper root crown eval will take place prior to work being done. Other variables will be assessed and evaluated.

If it is decided to still, at that point, proceed with the cable and reduction, I would strongly encourage the climber to NOT remove all the annoying interior limbs that are going to be in his/her way. These will be needed to create a reduced, but yet solid crown, to enable the two trunks to move as one tree. If thinned or reduced without creating an appropriately solid crown there is an increased risk for independent oscillation.

Dave
 
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my experience with maples.. if its is doing that how bad is the rot inside the tree? we had one by the house that looked good but was 75% hollow on the inside. its a nice looking specimens but you might be delaying the inevitable.. or the tree failing and falling on a car or house or injuring someone.

People, property and powerlines are way down on the list. Trees come first, according to Treeseer and his ilk.
 
"Please explain your rationale for getting all whackedee

Sudden cracking and high target rating. also that stem seems to be dclining so its time to head off the dieback. lots will be left.


yES MAYBE 20% of the sprawl off the other cable holds 7 tons. re decay, Good question--it's in your city and i have only seen those pics. wanna :help: me do it on the 13th?

Pm sent
 
oops, sweetgum

Here's the report i did for the city and the neighbors. we'll see what's budgeted and where to go.

Cracked Sweetgum Report 080913

ASSIGNMENT
September 13 2008 Mark of the Association asked me to assess the condition of a tree at Road in , and describe reasonable management options. Per the request of the city arborist, I was assigned to determine whether a support system could comply with the American National Standards Institute (ANSI)’s standards on support systems, so I refer to ANSI A300 (Part 3) 2006. I am not certain whether my client is the City of , the Association, both, or neither. I agreed to inspect the tree as soon as possible given the emergency conditions.
OBSERVATIONS AND DISCUSSION
The tree forks out a foot above the ground. The smaller fork has a moderate lean over the road and powerlines. Lower branches have been shortened to avoid the powerlines, but higher branches extend over them and over the property across the street. The larger trunk has a slight lean toward the residence. The fruit is in its green stage, with more water and more weight.

A crack between the trunks has opened this summer and is now 1-2” wide. There is no visible decay inside the crack at present, but the wood is highly likely to decay in the future. There is a small amount of decay in a ground-level wound facing the street. The trunk shows no defects, and the wounds from pruning branches appear to be sealing well. There is one fork above the yard with included bark. Many branches on both trunks have heavy ends. The top of the tree has less leaves.

Both trunks form major scaffold limbs about thirty feet up. I climbed the tree to complete my inspection, and in light of the considerable hazard I tied the trunks together with rope to prevent further failure and damage. I read the relevant portions of both the ANSI standards and the Best Management Practices (BMP’s) published by the International Society of Arboriculture. I saw the last 5 panels of the Taylor’s sidewalk lifted, and the grass near the tree is brown, indicating aggressive root expansion and water uptake. The asphalt pavement on Road has small cracks, allowing infiltration of water and nutrients and gas exchange.

MANAGEMENT OPTIONS
1. A 3/8” Extra High Strength (EHS) cable properly installed below the scaffold forks would comply with ANSI standards. Rated at 13,600 pounds, it can support the defect and work to prevent further opening of the wound.
2. The branches can be shortened, reducing strain on the defect and perhaps allowing the trunks to be pulled closer together when the cable is installed. If sufficient pruning is done every 5 years, and decay does not spread rapidly, the cable may be strong enough on its own.
3. The trunks can also be bolted (braced) together, but ANSI standards do not require this treatment. The ISA BMP’s state that brace rods are used to stabilize forks that have cracked. Propping and guying are support methods that do not seem to fit this tree.
4. Removing the five sidewalk panels and adding 4-6” of loose soil and sand before possibly relaying them would provide more rooting area for the tree. So would mulching an area extending in an arc around the tree, where the grass is brown and woody roots protrude above the surface. Chopping the leaves that drop this autumn and spreading the chips from the pruning work about 4” deep would more closely approximate the nutrient recycling and root protection in the tree’s natural growing conditions. The rooting area beneath the gravel driveway could be aerated and fertilized, according to its needs. Testing the soil, adjusting the acidity, and adding prescribed nutrients might also improve the tree’s ability to strengthen itself, over time.

The work should be done by a Certified Arborist experienced with the treatments specified, especially pruning over power lines and designing and installing support systems.
This concludes my report. I can clarify any portions of it upon request.

Sincerely Yours,

BCMA
 
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I've had the same experience as Jkebxjunke, try to save the tree but it is rotten to the core, realized after it was decided to remove entire tree. I might be in for the same issue soon as the matching maple on the other side of the driveway has some rot and the owners are considering removal. The rot is 10 feet up in the first crotch where a branch broke out 3 years ago. Chance is the water got down into the tree and has rotted it out. Looks healthy but beware!:jawdrop:
 
its a pity there is no non-destructive way to look inside the tree.... if it has rot on the inside then it may be best to bite the bullet ant take it down before it takes out power,phone,cable, a passing car, house, person, dog piddling on trunk, ect.. there is also a safety issue with thte sidewalk in this day and age of sue happy people.. all that's needed is for someone to trip on the sidewalk and then lawsuit havens... sad actually.
 
It's been years since I did this type of work.
I am sure that methods are a bit different. Does anyone still drill through the tree and insert ready rod with big washers before installing any cables?
I have yet to see a tree fail that I have cabled and braced. However I have cut some down that were full of metal. And this hardware was ancient. I know this wasn't much help to this thread, but who knows I may just find a job to break out the old bits for sometime soon.
 
Take the failing side down and let the other side stand. It should grow limbs to the road side to rebalance itself over time. I don't think cabling and reducing is gonna do it.
 
"There is no visible decay inside the crack at present, but the wood is highly likely to decay in the future."

Decay is expected, but managed by cleaning out the crack and closing it (thanks I added that), and by invigorating the roots. The steel could buy a lot of years, with the tree monitored/decay measured annually.
 
What kind of metal are the rods that would be used for this?

zinc-coated, galvanized, ss, or something else?
 
It's a nice tree no doubt, but my guess is that the inevitable is being delayed. My vote, if I had one in this, would be to take it down and start with another tree that future generations could enjoy. This one looks like trying to do a heart transplant on an older person that smokes like a chimney.

A proper burial and memorial service followed by a new planting.
 
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What kind of metal are the rods that would be used for this?

zinc-coated, galvanized, ss, or something else?

I am not sure what the ANSI standards are. The rigging stuff we bought was zinc coated, but we used galvanized threaded rod we bought locally. However we never took chances on the cabling hardware. It was always zinc.
Also wanted to add...
When you drill a hole through the trunk to install the rod, you get a pretty good idea the internal condition of the trunk. I think that was the main reason we braced it b4 we cabled it.
 
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Yes, all trees die.

What's the point? :confused:

The client will be spending alot of money on a tree that will cause them worry and money. From the pix it looks like they would be better off starting over, in the long run. The cost/liability numbers seem to be against them. A new tree would not give them immediate satisfaction but it certainly would in 30-40 years to others.
 

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