Can I see your rails?

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samdweezel05

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Going to get a chainsaw mill and just wanted to see what you guys are using for rails. Metal or wood, bought or made, doesn't matter. I make my living as a welder and diesel/heavy equipment mechanic so i wounder if I can make something instead of spending $200 on a 9' section of rail.
 
I got 2 x 20' channel for hanging electrical conduit 16.00 $ each , then i use a piece of 1 1/2" angle iron on the end of the logs .drilled full of 1/8" holes then 16 penney nails anchor the rails . I found the idea in the stickey at the top posted by the master BOB .
 
i'm at the same stage as you, building the carriage to hold the saw now, dont have the $$ or space right now to build a full on trailered frame type mill. I was thinking of ripping 12' 2x6's in half, then dadoing slots into the edges, and using 4"x12' plywood in the center, sandwiched between the 2"x3"s, similar to engineered floor joists used for building homes. i thought this would provide ample stiffness, while still being light and portable. i plan on staggering the center plywood piece 6" in on one end, and 6" overhang on the other, then i could slip 2 12' assemblies together for a 24' rail when needed for longer milling. seems like it should work ok, i'll let u know when i get there!
 
I got 2 x 20' channel for hanging electrical conduit 16.00 $ each , then i use a piece of 1 1/2" angle iron on the end of the logs .drilled full of 1/8" holes then 16 penney nails anchor the rails . I found the idea in the stickey at the top posted by the master BOB .


How are you holding the unistrut to the angle iron?
 
i'm at the same stage as you, building the carriage to hold the saw now, dont have the $$ or space right now to build a full on trailered frame type mill. I was thinking of ripping 12' 2x6's in half, then dadoing slots into the edges, and using 4"x12' plywood in the center, sandwiched between the 2"x3"s, similar to engineered floor joists used for building homes. i thought this would provide ample stiffness, while still being light and portable. i plan on staggering the center plywood piece 6" in on one end, and 6" overhang on the other, then i could slip 2 12' assemblies together for a 24' rail when needed for longer milling. seems like it should work ok, i'll let u know when i get there!

Awesom idea with laminating lumber.
 
How are you holding the unistrut to the angle iron?

with the standard plates that slide in side that way they will twist to fit the end of a log thats not sawed square . Plates are avable every elect store and both big box stores . The spring backed ones dont work as well as just the plain plate and grabe some extra bolts they fall out when you forget to tighten them up .
 
I use concrete forms. Just shim or wedge them where necessary then run a few deck screws through them. For the second cut, I hang the mill directly on the log.

Works for the occasional unconventional bit of milling as well :)

39937_145333752158493_2298784_n.jpg
 
I got this idea off another site; 2 "chairs" made from 4x4's mostly, with the chair uprights or backs having about a 10" gap between the vertical 4x4's and a log placed on them my rails are 2x4s screwed together with several cross "rungs" of 2x4 about 14ft long so I can cut easily 12ft for now. I will take some pics of it tomorrow. My plan for upgrade is to get 2 pieces of steel or aluminum angle and put them on the inside top of the rack setup, with some crosses of the same angle welded in several spots. I will fashion some all thread "stops" to contact the log in several points along the run, similar to the granberg quick rails. This will speed up setup time for the first cut.
 
I havent tried anything else but a extension ladder is hard to beat for a set of rails they are really light.
I have been using a 10 footer.
The longer ones may need a support or shims in the middle.
Chad
 
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