Can old 346xp be fitted with NE346xp P&C?

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Same holds true in the 2 stroke world, I believe. Or at least in the Yamaha Banshee atv's.
I've seen some really big carbs on drag 'shees. Some as big as 40 plus mm. Stock on a 'shee is dual 28mm.
They make a single carb conversions for the Banshee too that's suppose to give more low end power than the duals.

Same thing on my harley. I put a 95" BB kit in it with a S&S super e carb, 48mm throat. Had a heck of a dip low to mid range. Installed a Mikuni 42mm and the power curve is as smooth as can be. It pulls as soon as you crack the throttle and never stops. I may have lost a tiny bit top end, but these things only turn 6K anyway.
 
All of that is correct. However, chainsaws don't need torque off idle. If throttle response is good, a saw is used mostly in its upper RPM range, never down low. Low on a chainsaw would probably be 8,000 RPMs.

That's the key.

I guess we're getting a bit off topic, aren't we.
 
That's the key.

I guess we're getting a bit off topic, aren't we.

Not entirely. Throttle response is critical IMHO. Of the three I've done, it's lightning quick and jumps to full revs. That's one of the key advantages of the 346 and it's no different ported and with the 357 carb. To be honest with you, I don't even know the difference in the venturi sizes. If anything, I've found that porting usually improves throttle response. But we're taking about carbs, not porting, lol. Idle and throttle response were the problems with th 260. The 044 carb completely cured that. Excellent throttle response and much more useable.
 
I was definately amazed at the difference in throttle response with my 365. You just touch the throttle and she's screaming. I'm ruined forever:clap:

Can't wait til my 346 get's here. The 350 throttle response is good, but I'm excited to see how much better the 346 is.
 
I'm trying an aftermarket 346xpNE P&C on one of my 346OE cases now just to see how it will hold up. I have run 10 tanks of fuel through it so far, P&C still look great through the exhaust port. The saw has plenty of zip, really winds up quick. I also have an OE346 that I was/am very happy with. I think the NE (aftermarket) & the OE are close in power, the NE has been getting more fun with each tank so far; if the P&C holds up, I think it's a great alternative for the price. I won't be parting with the OE any time soon (if ever) it never hurts to have a back-up; either one should make you happy compared to the 350 you mention in the OP.
 
I'm trying an aftermarket 346xpNE P&C on one of my 346OE cases now just to see how it will hold up. I have run 10 tanks of fuel through it so far, P&C still look great through the exhaust port. The saw has plenty of zip, really winds up quick. I also have an OE346 that I was/am very happy with. I think the NE (aftermarket) & the OE are close in power, the NE has been getting more fun with each tank so far; if the P&C holds up, I think it's a great alternative for the price. I won't be parting with the OE any time soon (if ever) it never hurts to have a back-up; either one should make you happy compared to the 350 you mention in the OP.

Do you happen to have a link to your source for the aftermarket? Did you install it out of the box or do some porting before first?
 
Hey Brad a 357XP is only 6cc more than a NE346 so thats a mild mod compared to a 044 carb on a 026:jawdrop:
 
I'm trying an aftermarket 346xpNE P&C on one of my 346OE cases now just to see how it will hold up. I have run 10 tanks of fuel through it so far, P&C still look great through the exhaust port. The saw has plenty of zip, really winds up quick. I also have an OE346 that I was/am very happy with. I think the NE (aftermarket) & the OE are close in power, the NE has been getting more fun with each tank so far; if the P&C holds up, I think it's a great alternative for the price. I won't be parting with the OE any time soon (if ever) it never hurts to have a back-up; either one should make you happy compared to the 350 you mention in the OP.

That aftermarket cylinder fits the 346/350/353. It doesn't look like the transfers are nearly as big as the OE cylinder. Is this just the picture fooling me or is that the case. Seems like the OE ports really bulge out of the side of the casting, like they have a lot more area inside. The aftermarket looks more like an OE 350 casting to me.
 
That aftermarket cylinder fits the 346/350/353. It doesn't look like the transfers are nearly as big as the OE cylinder. Is this just the picture fooling me or is that the case. Seems like the OE ports really bulge out of the side of the casting, like they have a lot more area inside. The aftermarket looks more like an OE 350 casting to me.

The picture in the ad is a generic picture, the actual P&C you get has the fat transfers! Send him a messaage & he'll confirm everything first, very good at returning correspondence.
 
I personally wouldn't sweat it. I don't want to get into the whole debate again, but when we tested the 50cc saws recently, a stock OE 346XP was 2nd only to a NE 346XP. It was stronger than the 5100 and 260 in the wood we were testing with.

Hmmm. Supposedly, the 5100 gains are less than the 346, when both are ported.

However, both of mine were done by Ed Heard. In real wood, not little stuff, the 5100 is faster. As well, the 5100 was the first or 2nd one he did, which may have been the first that anyone did, fwiw.

Both lose out to my Sling'r built NE. But they are a few years old, and may have lost a step. Not sure about that, as they're relatively low hours, as I have so many saws, and run a tree service, so they don't get the hard use that a logger or firewood operation might subject them to.
 
It seems in a limbing saw, the lower end would become more important. I personally don't run WOT very often while limbing. I run the saw all over the rpm spectrum, depending on the thickness of what I'm cutting.

+1 .
In long cuts I am at WOT close to 99%. When falling a tree most of the time I slow up at the very end and fine tune the hinge as the tree starts to fall. Its easiar for me to control the saw and hinge thickness at a lower rpm then WOT. Most of the time I aim to be precise with where it lands for various reasons. I know cutting timber for logs it may be differant. Usually I'll be making firewood and splitting it on the spot so I am not very concerned about splintering or splitting the log as long as it doesn't get excessive and dangerous. I mostly fall trees the old way, I suppose other methods may work differant concerning your RPM. I was taught a differant method of falling but most of the time I feel more comfortable and safe doing it the old way but there is exceptions.
I also slow up as I approach the ground when bucking, at part throttle I can feel when the chain gets into the bark or softer doughty layer on trees that have been dead and finish the cut with minimumal dirt contact with the chain.
 
The picture in the ad is a generic picture, the actual P&C you get has the fat transfers! Send him a messaage & he'll confirm everything first, very good at returning correspondence.

I'd like to try one of those too...

Hmmm. Supposedly, the 5100 gains are less than the 346, when both are ported.

However, both of mine were done by Ed Heard. In real wood, not little stuff, the 5100 is faster. As well, the 5100 was the first or 2nd one he did, which may have been the first that anyone did, fwiw.

Both lose out to my Sling'r built NE. But they are a few years old, and may have lost a step. Not sure about that, as they're relatively low hours, as I have so many saws, and run a tree service, so they don't get the hard use that a logger or firewood operation might subject them to.

Roger- Sling'r sure does build a mean saw, doesn't he? He's got a system down for the Huskies that seems to be working good. It's good to see you around.
 
Anyone knows the weight difference (if any) between a OE with the NE top end and a 100% NE ? Any other changes in crankcase, carb, muffler.. or should they then have exactly the same power output ?
 
I got a husky 350 from work that I plan on putting this 346 top end on. It will be a little bit till it is up and running, needs quite a bit of loving. I also have a lead on another 350 and have the word out for a 346OE.
 
I got a husky 350 from work that I plan on putting this 346 top end on. It will be a little bit till it is up and running, needs quite a bit of loving. I also have a lead on another 350 and have the word out for a 346OE.

I toyed with the same idea myself. There seems to be a concern around this site regarding the lower end of a 350 holding up to the 346 upper end. I opted to find a used 346 that I will go thru and most likely sell my 350. I'm trying to fight my CAD and get down to a 3 saw plan.
 
I toyed with the same idea myself. There seems to be a concern around this site regarding the lower end of a 350 holding up to the 346 upper end. I opted to find a used 346 that I will go thru and most likely sell my 350. I'm trying to fight my CAD and get down to a 3 saw plan.

Yup, there will be doubters, but that is all speculation; since, as far as I know, no one has tried this combo yet. The 350 does have a bigger diameter piston than an 346OE, so the only worry I might have is because of the increased RPM. So we shall see. My 064 with the 066BB has held up so far and there was some doubt out there about it being able to handle it.

I will find an 346OE eventually as I like how they handle and are built better overall than the 350.
 
I guess you won't know until you try it. That's why I picked up the 346. I keep hearing all the hype, just want to experience it for myself. I'm very happy with the 350 I ported. I imagine with the 346NE style cylinder, it would really breathe well. The transfers on that jug look huge compared to the 350. I'm cutting firewood, and not professionally, so either of these saws should last me for years.
 
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