Can old 346xp be fitted with NE346xp P&C?

[SawTroll]

Hmmm. Supposedly, the 5100 gains are less than the 346, when both are ported.

However, both of mine were done by Ed Heard. In real wood, not little stuff, the 5100 is faster. As well, the 5100 was the first or 2nd one he did, which may have been the first that anyone did, fwiw.
.....

Later, he reported that the very first NE346xp he did beat his 5100Ss...........


It is a pity that he has withdrawn from the internet - but I guess he has his reasons!


The info I have got is pretty contradicting, so I sure won't pass on any rumors or opinions on the issue!

 

[SawTroll]

346, old style or new will not work on a 242/246. Completely different saw models.

Yep, different stroke, among other "things".....

 

[bjorn773]

I just ordered an aftermarket cylinder. When it arrives, I'll post some pics of the OE and AM side by side. It should be interesting to see how they compare.

 

[hedgehogtree]

I put a NE piston and cylinder on my OE 346 about 6 months ago. I ordered husky parts not aftermarket, so it was not cheap. It pretty much bolted on. I had to file a very small amount of metal on the outside of the cylinder because the clutch was scraping. Once I did that, no other problems. It took awhile to break in, but now it runs up with my NE no problem. Glad I did it, still cheaper than a new one.

When I was looking about 6 months ago, I couldn't find an aftermarket P and C kit for the NE 50cc.

 

[bjorn773]

The cylinder was waiting on my toolbox when I got to work this morning. As promised, here's the pics comparing the two. I would not want to just bolt on this aftermarket cylinder. The castings leave a LOT to be desired. I plan to do some grinding on it anyway, so it will just take longer. It looks like a cheap alternative to OE, but I emphasize the work cheap. It will be interesting to see how it runs aft er some cleaning up.

 

[bjorn773]

OE

Aftermarket

OE

Aftermarket

 

[bjorn773]

OE exhaust

Aftermarket exhaust

 

[epicklein22]

Doesn't look too good from the outside, but the inside looks pretty good for a 100 dollar kit. No different than an other aftermarket kit really. I will be cleaning up ports also when it shows up. (Still haven't made the order yet). Will probably buy OEM rings and clips. Maybe the wrist pin too if not too much $. Are you going to run 3/8 or .325? I'm gonna run a 16" bar, probably .325 pitch since my drum is already .325 and bars are easier to find.

 

[bjorn773]

I'll run .325 for the same reason, that's what's on it now. I have an 18 on my 350 that I may swap since I just bought three new chains for it. The 346 came with a 16 .325 but I only have the chain that came with it. I have a 350 rim sprocket setup that I have both .325 and 3/8 rims for, I might play around with 3/8 a little. I think this saw is better suited for .325 though.

 

[SawTroll]

I'll run .325 for the same reason, that's what's on it now. I have an 18 on my 350 that I may swap since I just bought three new chains for it. The 346 came with a 16 .325 but I only have the chain that came with it. I have a 350 rim sprocket setup that I have both .325 and 3/8 rims for, I might play around with 3/8 a little. I think this saw is better suited for .325 though.

Actually all 50cc saws are better off with .325 chain, at least in hardwood, providing you coose the right chain models (.325 chain vary a lot more in design and cutting ability than 3/8" chain does).

 

[cuttinscott]

Actually all HUSKY50cc saws are better off with .325 chain, at least in hardwood, providing you coose the right chain models (.325 chain vary a lot more in design and cutting ability than 3/8" chain does).

Hey Niko I fixed your Quote for ya



Scott

 

[bjorn773]

Ok, I'm back to chainsaw work after a long winter of wood burning. I started porting the aftermarket cylinder. As you can see from the pics, the castings are pretty crappy in this cylinder, especially the transfer port inside the bore. I have cleaned it up as best I can and tapered the intake side transfer port toward the intake. My wheel was a bit too large diameter, so I ended up taking a bit of material off the bridge(my terminology) between the two transfer ports. My understanding is this keeps the ring from wanting to slip into the transfer ports like on the exhaust port. If this is correct, will it matter if the bridge is a bit narrower, as long as there is some material for the ring to ride on? Also, because of this "bridge" I should not need to put a chamfer on the transfer ports like on the exhaust/intake. Is this correct?

 

[blsnelling]

Your transfer bridge should be fine. I always put a slight bevel on the transfers anyway, just to be safe. You did widen it. I'll agree, the ports at the cylinder wall are not pretty, especially the tranfers. Once ported though, that's all gone. Should make a great running saw.

 

[bjorn773]

Thanks Brad. Yes, I did widen the transfers, not make them taller. I don't want to mess with timing, that's beyond my abilities at this time. Perhaps in the future.

 

[blsnelling]

Thanks Brad. Yes, I did widen the transfers, not make them taller. I don't want to mess with timing, that's beyond my abilities at this time. Perhaps in the future.

I really widen up those rear transfers on the 346. Go 65%-70% of bore width of the bore on both intake and exhaust. Set squish .016"-.018". I like to raise the transfers and lower the intake a little, but certainly not required. Makes an awesome running little saw. Have you measured port timing by chance? That's cool if not. I was just wondering what you found.

 

[epicklein22]

I already went through everything and blew mine up.

I got the kit, widened the exhaust and intake port, lowered the intake slightly, and cleaned up the transfers (didn't feel comfortable widening the transfers). Threw it on a husky 350 and did a quick muff mod. It was cutting great and had very nice power. Running safety chain, it beat my buddies ported 026 (which is 15-20% faster than when it was stock). So I was pretty happy. Then one of the wrist pin clips let go. Didn't even have a tank through it yet. Lucas replaced the kit, so I now I'm starting over.

I got the kit already, but this time I ordered a OEM ring and clips. Plus I'm switching over to a 3/8" 16" bar. A pop-up might be in order too.

 

[blsnelling]

I already went through everything and blew mine up.

I got the kit, widened the exhaust and intake port, lowered the intake slightly, and cleaned up the transfers (didn't feel comfortable widening the transfers). Threw it on a husky 350 and did a quick muff mod. It was cutting great and had very nice power. Running safety chain, it beat my buddies ported 026 (which is 15-20% faster than when it was stock). So I was pretty happy. Then one of the wrist pin clips let go. Didn't even have a tank through it yet. Lucas replaced the kit, so I now I'm starting over.

I got the kit already, but this time I ordered a OEM ring and clips. Plus I'm switching over to a 3/8" 16" bar. A pop-up might be in order too.

No, no, no! My eyes are bleeding reading this! Sorry to hear that mang.

 

[epicklein22]

No, no, no! My eyes are bleeding reading this! Sorry to hear that mang.

It is all good. Doing it a second time will make it better anyways. I plan on going a little more in-depth with a degree wheel and such.

 

[SawTroll]

Hey Niko I fixed your Quote for ya



Scott

You are of course entitled to stand you ground, as you are a Dolmar dealer.......

 

[bjorn773]

I really widen up those rear transfers on the 346. Go 65%-70% of bore width of the bore on both intake and exhaust. Set squish .016"-.018". I like to raise the transfers and lower the intake a little, but certainly not required. Makes an awesome running little saw. Have you measured port timing by chance? That's cool if not. I was just wondering what you found.

I haven't checked any timing. I should read up on how to do that. I assume if I search this site, there's been a tutorial on timing. I don't have a degree wheel, but may have to pick one up. Do you have any links handy to a source for a degree wheel you like to use?