As the title says. I've got a leak and wondering if they can come apart to fix or V it out n goo it? 
Runs great otherwise
Runs great otherwise
Can you split a 162se metal fuel tank?
- Thread starter Jethro 2t sniffer
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Two part liquid steel expoxy the kind you looks like a cigar and you cut a chunk off and knead it together and apply.I have fixed several 162 tanks always on the seam .Make sure you rough the metal up and clean with brake cleaner.
Kash
Kash
Awesome thanks mate. Selley's knead it? Did ya hog out a groove?
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A good engineer could weld it- shame you don't know any! 
A good engineer knows when not tooA good engineer could weld it- shame you don't know any!
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Where did you find a good one that told you that?A good engineer knows when not too
You could replace it with a 61/266 plastic tank. You'd need the handle screws too.
Have considered that also. Kinda like the metal tank
I don't know how bad the opening is or if you have a similar product but I would be inclined to use Red Kote for a leaky metal tank. If it is too bad, you can put a little tape over a hole that is big enough to leak the Red Kote, just be sure to give it enough time to cure completely.
Mark
Mark
Thanks Mark kinda forgot about that stuffs existence
I get that. Also the alloy tank has superior vibration damping but was dropped because the sonic-welded polyamid tanks proved to be more durable.
Interesting we tid bit there. Thank you.
I'll slosh some liner around in it. Should sort it out.
I notice when looking at pictures of these some have what looks like a little bracket from the top handle down to the chain brake. Both my 162s are no brake models and have a bung in that hole in the handle. The brake is off a 268 but still metal handle. What was going on there on the original brake setup? Very curious
I have a Jonsered 2054 I cleaned the JB off of the oil tank as it was leaking through it. I never finished gooping anything else on and like post #10 I had forgotten it existed. I will bashfully say I never even considered Red -Kote.
Thank You Mark.
Thank You Mark.
The original "Swed-o-matic" brake was like the one in this pic, requiring a bracket on the handle, to which the black knurled adjustable bolt was attached.
The one you have is the revised version with the actuating bolt on the brake instead of the handle, so no need for the bracket.
bolted throu throught
The one you have is the revised version with the actuating bolt on the brake instead of the handle, so no need for the bracket.
bolted throu throught
BTW, the brake you have is probably from a 61 or 266. The 268 brake should be the fully enclosed "knee-link" mechanism with a black plastic guard.
EDIT: Ahh! Unless NZ got 268s like the ones in the US which could well have had metal handle brakes. In Australia we had
66 = same as US 268
268 = same as US 268XP
EDIT: Ahh! Unless NZ got 268s like the ones in the US which could well have had metal handle brakes. In Australia we had
66 = same as US 268
268 = same as US 268XP
Thanks mate awesome. The 268 is an se on the badge and XP everywhere else I do understand it was just a marketing thing. I have another brake the same but the knob is gone and I need to weld up the band. I like the metal ones
Nice saws. I put a new ring on the other 162 but still has sod all compression compared to the 1 in the picture. Not sure why the bore looks good it was a meteor ring of the 61 none window piston
