Rallyeguy
ArboristSite Member
Just letting everyone know I added a 797 Complete gasket kit to my store.
https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-797-Gasket-Kit-p723524302
https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-797-Gasket-Kit-p723524302
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Rotax Steve
ArboristSite Member
I don't think we're talking about the same thing. The wire I'm looking at is not electrical, it like a thin utility wire wrapped around the intake. I tried to clean the area up more for a better picture.
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JS - If you keep the tank filled with fuel in good condition you don't need to worry too much about oxidation in the tank. I use Red Cote to seal a tank when the gaskets just won't hold, or in the case of the SP models where the tanks are assembled with epoxy and you cannot separate them.
If the saw is going to set for extended periods without fuel, consider using some fogging oil, or even a bit of mix oil and roll the tank around to give everything a good coating to prevent exposure to the atmosphere.
Vinny - McCulloch tried a lot of things along the way, some were good ideas and they stayed with them, some were not as good and they made improvements. I have not had the spring ground fail completely but I have had saws that gave you a little notice when you turned the switch off.
Mark
If the saw is going to set for extended periods without fuel, consider using some fogging oil, or even a bit of mix oil and roll the tank around to give everything a good coating to prevent exposure to the atmosphere.
Vinny - McCulloch tried a lot of things along the way, some were good ideas and they stayed with them, some were not as good and they made improvements. I have not had the spring ground fail completely but I have had saws that gave you a little notice when you turned the switch off.
Mark
Lol...ive had that once. They really let ya know.
Thats the same wire Mark referred to. It is a spring but acts as a ground also.
JSMississippi
ArboristSite Member
Thanks Mark. That sounds easy enough to do. I think it was an SP81 you were working on where I saw about the Red-Kote - was just missing the full contextual knowledge there about the tank halves.
I've recently made some plates for checking crankcase leaks. This is for the 10 series saws. You drill for your fitting you want to use. I would like to make some for the bigger saws but need cylinder for exhaust and intake fitment. Is anyone willing to let me borrow one. It can be roached on inside as I only need outside.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/cinci5
https://www.ebay.com/usr/cinci5
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Rallyeguy
ArboristSite Member
If McCulloch made it, chances are Mark has it!
Yeah and they were very bad at doing their job Vinny. Thus why they disappeared in later models.
And its HARD on the old girls when it happens too!
I don't think I posted this here, yet. PM700 arrived recently, low hour / late release (note the grey crankcase/oil tank) saw in need of some attention. PTO side seal was leaking, among other things.
As I mentioned a page or two back, 8 screws holding the crankcase together. In these days McCulloch was using some sort of clean anerobic sealer and they were pretty generous with the sealant during assembly.
The 12-24x1-34 screws on this one have a very large flange, and the aluminum sealing washers.
I replaced the 8-32 flange head screws with socket head cap screws. Shorter ones are 3/4", longer one is 1-3/8"
I put a generous dab of Dirko HT on the screw threads in the hope that a little will transfer to the surface around the hole when I insert them and aid in the seal.
The fuel tank was leaking badly, and had been previously sealed with Threebond 1184 (MotoSeal) or some similar product. Rather than trying to take it apart and clean all of that up, I went with Red Cote in the tank so it will be a few days before I get to test the saw.
Two other issues I found were the throttle boot was destroyed, and the oil pick up line had a hole in it. Replacing those are both tasks I hate, but both went very well on this saw.
Getting the new boot in place is bad enough, but then you have to work the throttle rod back through it as well.
I am guessing that at some point the spring clip that hold the rear of the automatic oil pump down came loose was rattling around in the oil tank. I cannot come up with a better explanation for how the oil line would get cut up like that.
I posted this before, but the best way I've found to change or install the screen in the end of the oiler hose is to roll the edges of the bell back.
Then you can lay the new screen on there and just roll them back in place.
Like Andy Reid says "It's fun, try it..."
Mark
As I mentioned a page or two back, 8 screws holding the crankcase together. In these days McCulloch was using some sort of clean anerobic sealer and they were pretty generous with the sealant during assembly.
The 12-24x1-34 screws on this one have a very large flange, and the aluminum sealing washers.
I replaced the 8-32 flange head screws with socket head cap screws. Shorter ones are 3/4", longer one is 1-3/8"
I put a generous dab of Dirko HT on the screw threads in the hope that a little will transfer to the surface around the hole when I insert them and aid in the seal.
The fuel tank was leaking badly, and had been previously sealed with Threebond 1184 (MotoSeal) or some similar product. Rather than trying to take it apart and clean all of that up, I went with Red Cote in the tank so it will be a few days before I get to test the saw.
Two other issues I found were the throttle boot was destroyed, and the oil pick up line had a hole in it. Replacing those are both tasks I hate, but both went very well on this saw.
Getting the new boot in place is bad enough, but then you have to work the throttle rod back through it as well.
I am guessing that at some point the spring clip that hold the rear of the automatic oil pump down came loose was rattling around in the oil tank. I cannot come up with a better explanation for how the oil line would get cut up like that.
I posted this before, but the best way I've found to change or install the screen in the end of the oiler hose is to roll the edges of the bell back.
Then you can lay the new screen on there and just roll them back in place.
Like Andy Reid says "It's fun, try it..."
Mark
Rotax Steve
ArboristSite Member
Will a 10-10 flywheel work on my SP81E? Surprised I hadn't noticed yet but one of the fins are snapped off. Will one missing fin be a problem?
