Can't seem to figure out replacement chain part number for P20

[cscltd]

bar could be hardnose or roller nose, no pitch for them.
sprocket should have chain pitch stamped on it.
and they could have been changed as we always put .325 on it if .298 or if customer needed sprocket and chain as those bars were not effected by pitch

 

[ray benson]

The ipl lists the P20 using a 14" bar 473924. The owners manual lists the chain as 3/8 .058.

 

[RRRocketMan]

Not a direct answer but I did find the bar or at least a facsimile of it under the part number I guessed:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143909355659

 

[camel2019]

Not a direct answer but I did find the bar or at least a facsimile of it under the part number I guessed:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143909355659
View attachment 975473

I’d take both bare and chain off need to to properly count the drive links anyway and inspect the bar it most linkup will need to be dressed. Every sharpening the bar should be flipped too.

 

[Pioneer]

If you want a spare, take the chain to the nearest full service saw dealer and have a chain made up. Should cost around $25-30 for that length.
However, the chain looks like it has plenty material left for you to sharpen it.

 

[RRRocketMan]

Is it ok? I thought the opening should be nearly circular for a new chain and this one looks like it's 2/3 gone. If it's still good I'll run with it but I was afraid of teeth being ejected when they get torn off.

 

[Captain Bruce]

Count your Drive links then go to a decent saw shop and tell them you want whatever your drive link count is in 058 3/8 pitch in semi or chisel chain your choice.They will either have it or will make you a loop.This way you are dead sure you will get the correct chain providing they can count and read.
Kash

Another waste of time; seeking a 14" chain?, for a Pioneer? A bar/chain combo/set-up is sold everywhere, for that saw. for 40 bucks. You can replace that unit for that much......

 

[thenne1713]

I counted them and I think it's 50. Bit hard to keep track of where I started but it's definitely 50 +/- 1

The bar doesn't look like a 16". Every document I can find says it should be 16" minimum but it supposed to be measured from tip to where the bar dissappears into the saw. That's measuring about 13". Could be some odd length bar but as I mentioned, I have 2 P20s from completely different former owners both with identical bar and chain so whatever this 13" is all about, it must be a local thing? I can't seem to find anything on Bailey's other than 60 drive links, 3/8", 0.05, the latter part making sense to me but the 60 links seems a few too many. I don't have 60 links on mine now, which makes sense if the bar is 13" I guess.

Many MFR stamped the bar w/ groove size and # drive links? Have you checked bar near mount?

 

[camel2019]

Is it ok? I thought the opening should be nearly circular for a new chain and this one looks like it's 2/3 gone. If it's still good I'll run with it but I was afraid of teeth being ejected when they get torn off.

Put a file to it 7/32 is what you need and check the rakers

 

[RRRocketMan]

Ok. I think I have the right one. I've already replaced the fuel line, rebuilt the carb and changed the plug so once the chain is sharp, everything should be tip top.

 

[camel2019]

Ok. I think I have the right one. I've already replaced the fuel line, rebuilt the carb and changed the plug so once the chain is sharp, everything should be tip top.

Is it running well? Can it run on it it’s side without running lean?

 

[RRRocketMan]

Yes I think so. Why would it run lean on its side? Because of where the fuel pickup is?

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

Yes I think so. Why would it run lean on its side? Because of where the fuel pickup is?

Bad crank seals will cause it. You don’t want to run it with bad seals, you’ll burn up the piston and cyl.


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