Carb adjustment for easier starting?

[david newbie]

Some saws seem to take a lot of pulling, even after a carb rebuild. Is there any sort of general rule of thumb? I can usually adjust the low speed screw okay while it’s running, but I always wonder if a little leaner or richer would help it start easier. Asking this question while I’m working on a very low hour sexy Wild Thing I know there’s going to be a dumpster comment. I paid 80 total for the 3 saws

 

[oldguy]

I like to think a little richer on the low screw works best, then bring the idle screw up to get a clean idle, this for cold starting.

 

[SunburnedCock]

I have always tuned idle for max rpm on a fully warmed up engine. I may slightly tweak for off idle response.

I also re-tune the screw between seasons, as it is heavily dependent on outside temperature

 

[John Lyngdal]

I'm in the slightly rich low speed jet camp, then set the high speed jet to compensate.

 

[altatim]

Never had an issue with a well tuned saw starting easily. Just make sure that the idle is set right and all should be good. Too rich on the L can cause fuel pooling which is an issue on its own.

 

[MacAttack]

I came to suggest a little more rich on the L adjustment and turn the idle up a little helps with cold starts.
With that said.... an old, stiff diaphragm in the carb will make it start hard too.

 

[huskihl]

You could compensate a little bit with the L screw and turn the idle screw up to compensate. But most of the gas comes through the H circuit straight through the brass nozzle when the choke is closed and throttle is open (high idle). Hard to justify opening up the high-speed needle though, just to get it started and then have to retune once it’s running. You likely have a stiff diaphragm or two and/or the needle lever is set too low. I would also check the fuel filter and fuel line

 

[stihltech]

When you have to fiddle with the carb a lot to get an easier start, it is time to look further. I would be doing s vscuum and pressure test.
Alternately, get a can of brake cleaner and spray around gaskets, seals, and point where air might be sucked in. I bet you will find the idle change somewhere.
This is why in the shop I usually replace a carburetor. The results are immediate.
I realize on older saws it may not be an option. Recheck the inlet lever height and fuel lines. Don't forget the vent.
It is not getting enough fuel for a reason. And it usually is not adjustment.