I just use compressed air to blow off the sawdust and a clean rag to finish the job. NEVER, NEVER use carb spray in a 2 stroke carb on any 2 stroke engine. Carb spray is very dry and will immediately strip the oil off the piston, rings and cylinder walls and cause scoring. If the carb is questionably dirty, remove it, strip it, soak the body and parts in a solution like Berryman's B12 Chem Tool, rinse it in water, blow dry it and replace the diaphragm with a new one or buy a rebuild kit. Cotton swabs are great for getting coagulated crud out of nooks and crannies too.
Carb Cleaner.
- Thread starter Andrew15
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Ultrasonic "bath".. Complete disassembly, including the jets. Warm water with a touch of dish soap, and twenty minutes of time. It's amazing what comes out of the internal passages.
I own a large heated ultrasonic cleaner and I use it often and I can drain various fluids out and replace them with others very quickly. In fact I have a number of different solutions on hand at all times, from Berryman's Chem Tool to Simple Green Commercial cleaner, depending on what I'm 'dunking'. How I clean my Volquartsen competition target pistols, I've never field stripped them other than removing the optics and grip panels. They always 'go for a swim' for 30 minutes in the cleaner at 130 degrees. It completely removes any and all carbon fouling and residual lubricant which, of course I do replace. Mine is actually large enough to 'dunk' a long gun as well, though I rarely do that because the Jewel triggers are very prone to actuation issues.
Yup. I was surprised to see that this thread got to the second page without the mention of ultrasonic cleaners. Spraying carb cleaner on the outside just makes it look pretty. Spraying carb cleaner down the throat of the carb doesn't really do much. Dumping stuff in the tank is just a band aid solution, as, if there's a blocked passage, the cleaning agents can't get to the blockage.
IMHO, if it hasn't had a "bath"... It's not clean..
I suspect kero or diesel fuel would work just as well for that, at about 5-10% of the price/gallon (like so-called "lemon oil furniture polish," wd-40 is almost entirely mineral spirits)...
AFAIK, WD-40 isn't marketed as a lubricant, per se. Or, it's marketed as a "multi purpose" spray. The name stands for Water Displacement 40th formulation. Although it may act initially, as a cleaning agent or lubricant. There's way better options for Pine sap.
I usually use Seafoam "Deep Creep", when in sappy Pine, but, I'm sure there are other options.
It is actually marketed as a lubricant, the wd40 website has a whole page dedicated to it being a "lubricant".
Key word there is "Marketed".. Perhaps I should have used the word "reviewed". As a lubricant, it sucks.. large.. There's way, way better application specific products on the market.
I found a product made by WD40 a cleaner degreaser. When air and wiping isnt enough.
This stuff spray on let set and then spray off. Then wipe dry.
Why I tried it was looking for something that dont discolor aluminum or plastics. This doesnt harm anything.
This stuff spray on let set and then spray off. Then wipe dry.
Why I tried it was looking for something that dont discolor aluminum or plastics. This doesnt harm anything.
KostasVolos
ArboristSite Operative
Carb cleaner spray has worked for me so far .
Have tried two-three different ones and always do the job .
I have unblocked several times the passages without the need of removing any welch plug .
Only once ,I have used a thin titanium wire ( for vape DIY resistor ) to unblock a heavily clogged idle jet passage,along with a carb cleaner spray .
Me thinks carb cleaner sprays do
work as intended.If one knows where and how to apply the spray the carb gets cleaned thoroughly.
Have tried two-three different ones and always do the job .
I have unblocked several times the passages without the need of removing any welch plug .
Only once ,I have used a thin titanium wire ( for vape DIY resistor ) to unblock a heavily clogged idle jet passage,along with a carb cleaner spray .
Me thinks carb cleaner sprays do
work as intended.If one knows where and how to apply the spray the carb gets cleaned thoroughly.
I agree, it's a shite lubricant, amd there are better out there, however it's still a lubricant. You can deny that till your the color of the can and you would still be wrong.
but every Guy keeps a gallon can of WD-40, and has the hand sprayer.........that other product is costly!
Bill G
ArboristSite King
Funny how lube issues get folks so lubed up........
Here you go.............. any want to pick on Kroil as a penetrating LUBRICANT must be a bad and a ch-mo creeper since in "creeps".
Come on folks we all use what works for us. Hell ATF and acetone
Here you go.............. any want to pick on Kroil as a penetrating LUBRICANT must be a bad and a ch-mo creeper since in "creeps".
Come on folks we all use what works for us. Hell ATF and acetone
Doorfx
ArboristSite Operative
An ultrasonic cleaner at 60c works amazing. Best carb cleaning tool I’ve ever used.
I like the atf/acetone mix. Keep some around in a squirt can.
I have a little L&R. We had big versions at the machine shop. Always worked. My little one is old as dirt, got it used at a junk sale. Said it didn't work, and it turned out it was a bad heater timer. Easy to replace. No issues since.
New version of of what I have.
https://www.lrultrasonics.com/syste...c-cleaning-systems/quantrex90-with-timer-heatI wish it was bigger, but it works well for carbs and smaller parts
I don't recommend anyone trying to eat off the floor in my shop...
I use the gallon can of carburetor cleaner. Take carburetor apart, soak metal parts in cleaner , rinse off with hot water then lightly blow dry with compressed air. That method has worked for me for several years.
Who sprays carb cleaner into a 2 stroke engine? That is NOT what it is for. Not for cleaning plastics either. ALWAYS remove a carb to clean it, that way you're assured not to get any foreign material or carb cleaner into the slug and jug. The cleaner will wipe out bearings too.
