Carb Cleaner.

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Carb cleaner is pretty strong, and can discolor plastics. Probably not good for rubber. After I clean out the clutch cover gunk with a brush or tool, I use a bit of brake clean spray to flush the oily bits out of corners. Even it is a bit strong.
I just use compressed air to blow off the sawdust and a clean rag to finish the job. NEVER, NEVER use carb spray in a 2 stroke carb on any 2 stroke engine. Carb spray is very dry and will immediately strip the oil off the piston, rings and cylinder walls and cause scoring. If the carb is questionably dirty, remove it, strip it, soak the body and parts in a solution like Berryman's B12 Chem Tool, rinse it in water, blow dry it and replace the diaphragm with a new one or buy a rebuild kit. Cotton swabs are great for getting coagulated crud out of nooks and crannies too.
 
I own a large heated ultrasonic cleaner and I use it often and I can drain various fluids out and replace them with others very quickly. In fact I have a number of different solutions on hand at all times, from Berryman's Chem Tool to Simple Green Commercial cleaner, depending on what I'm 'dunking'. How I clean my Volquartsen competition target pistols, I've never field stripped them other than removing the optics and grip panels. They always 'go for a swim' for 30 minutes in the cleaner at 130 degrees. It completely removes any and all carbon fouling and residual lubricant which, of course I do replace. Mine is actually large enough to 'dunk' a long gun as well, though I rarely do that because the Jewel triggers are very prone to actuation issues.
 
I own a large heated ultrasonic cleaner and I use it often and I can drain various fluids out and replace them with others very quickly. In fact I have a number of different solutions on hand at all times, from Berryman's Chem Tool to Simple Green Commercial cleaner, depending on what I'm 'dunking'. How I clean my Volquartsen competition target pistols, I've never field stripped them other than removing the optics and grip panels. They always 'go for a swim' for 30 minutes in the cleaner at 130 degrees. It completely removes any and all carbon fouling and residual lubricant which, of course I do replace. Mine is actually large enough to 'dunk' a long gun as well, though I rarely do that because the Jewel triggers are very prone to actuation issues.
Yup. I was surprised to see that this thread got to the second page without the mention of ultrasonic cleaners. Spraying carb cleaner on the outside just makes it look pretty. Spraying carb cleaner down the throat of the carb doesn't really do much. Dumping stuff in the tank is just a band aid solution, as, if there's a blocked passage, the cleaning agents can't get to the blockage.

IMHO, if it hasn't had a "bath"... It's not clean..
 
Well, WD 40 is good to spray on the saw before cutting pine.
I suspect kero or diesel fuel would work just as well for that, at about 5-10% of the price/gallon (like so-called "lemon oil furniture polish," wd-40 is almost entirely mineral spirits)...
 
I suspect kero or diesel fuel would work just as well for that, at about 5-10% of the price/gallon (like so-called "lemon oil furniture polish," wd-40 is almost entirely mineral spirits)...
AFAIK, WD-40 isn't marketed as a lubricant, per se. Or, it's marketed as a "multi purpose" spray. The name stands for Water Displacement 40th formulation. Although it may act initially, as a cleaning agent or lubricant. There's way better options for Pine sap.
I usually use Seafoam "Deep Creep", when in sappy Pine, but, I'm sure there are other options.
 
It is actually marketed as a lubricant, the wd40 website has a whole page dedicated to it being a "lubricant".
Key word there is "Marketed".. Perhaps I should have used the word "reviewed". As a lubricant, it sucks.. large.. There's way, way better application specific products on the market.
 
Carb cleaner spray has worked for me so far .
Have tried two-three different ones and always do the job .
I have unblocked several times the passages without the need of removing any welch plug .
Only once ,I have used a thin titanium wire ( for vape DIY resistor ) to unblock a heavily clogged idle jet passage,along with a carb cleaner spray .
Me thinks carb cleaner sprays do
work as intended.If one knows where and how to apply the spray the carb gets cleaned thoroughly.
 
Key word there is "Marketed".. Perhaps I should have used the word "reviewed". As a lubricant, it sucks.. large.. There's way, way better application specific products on the market.
I agree, it's a shite lubricant, amd there are better out there, however it's still a lubricant. You can deny that till your the color of the can and you would still be wrong.
 
Funny how lube issues get folks so lubed up........


Here you go.............. any want to pick on Kroil as a penetrating LUBRICANT must be a bad and a ch-mo creeper since in "creeps".

1687228748532.png
Come on folks we all use what works for us. Hell ATF and acetone
 
Full strength Simple Green cuts most oily crud very well. Wipe and blow it out when its good and drippy. I do use brake kleen on bar grooves and clutch assemblies. I also spritz some light clean oil on all the metal bits and bearing grease when done. Keeps the mag rot at bay.
There is no substitute for brake and carb cleaner for cleaning out the carburetor. I tried many different solutions. Especially when cleaning varnish out of the passageways inside the carb.
An ultrasonic cleaner at 60c works amazing. Best carb cleaning tool I’ve ever used.
 
Funny how lube issues get folks so lubed up........


Here you go.............. any want to pick on Kroil as a penetrating LUBRICANT must be a bad and a ch-mo creeper since in "creeps".

View attachment 1091598
Come on folks we all use what works for us. Hell ATF and acetone
I like the atf/acetone mix. Keep some around in a squirt can.
 
So since the conversation has shifted to ultrasonic cleaners, what is the best
I have a little L&R. We had big versions at the machine shop. Always worked. My little one is old as dirt, got it used at a junk sale. Said it didn't work, and it turned out it was a bad heater timer. Easy to replace. No issues since.
New version of of what I have.
https://www.lrultrasonics.com/syste...c-cleaning-systems/quantrex90-with-timer-heatI wish it was bigger, but it works well for carbs and smaller parts
 
I have an old sand blasting cabinet that i put them in, then hit them with the air hose i`ve got rigged up inside of it. You could eat off the floor in my shop, my floors are very clean, and i keep them cleaned.
I don't recommend anyone trying to eat off the floor in my shop...
I use the gallon can of carburetor cleaner. Take carburetor apart, soak metal parts in cleaner , rinse off with hot water then lightly blow dry with compressed air. That method has worked for me for several years.
 
I just use compressed air to blow off the sawdust and a clean rag to finish the job. NEVER, NEVER use carb spray in a 2 stroke carb on any 2 stroke engine. Carb spray is very dry and will immediately strip the oil off the piston, rings and cylinder walls and cause scoring. If the carb is questionably dirty, remove it, strip it, soak the body and parts in a solution like Berryman's B12 Chem Tool, rinse it in water, blow dry it and replace the diaphragm with a new one or buy a rebuild kit. Cotton swabs are great for getting coagulated crud out of nooks and crannies too.
Who sprays carb cleaner into a 2 stroke engine? That is NOT what it is for. Not for cleaning plastics either. ALWAYS remove a carb to clean it, that way you're assured not to get any foreign material or carb cleaner into the slug and jug. The cleaner will wipe out bearings too.
 

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