Carburetor screws in horrible place. Any advice?

[pioneerguy600]

Te easy to tell difference is how the cylinder is held to the crankcase, the non Supers have regular screws through the base plate while the Supers have studs that go all the way through the cylinder fins from the very top of the cylinder down to the crankcase and then have nuts on the studs to tighten down the cylinder.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The only problem I see is the fact everyone is thinking conventional screwdriver with the blade applied parallel to the screw shank.

The slots of those screws are cut through the entire head- I would be grinding something like a hacksaw blade to suit and making a tool that came down from the top of the air box to engage the screw slot at a right angle to the shank.
You are only turning small increments to tune and hardly need the torque of a half inch breaker bar to do it.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The only problem I see is the fact everyone is thinking conventional screwdriver with the blade applied parallel to the screw shank.

The slots of those screws are cut through the entire head- I would be grinding something like a hacksaw blade to suit and making a tool that came down from the top of the air box to engage the screw slot at a right angle to the shank.
You are only turning small increments to tune and hardly need the torque of a half inch breaker bar to do it.

The screw heads could have another slot cut in them to make them look like a + , then they could be adjusted one quarter of a turn at a time in or out.

 

[HuskyShepherd2016]

The screw heads could have another slot cut in them to make them look like a + , then they could be adjusted one quarter of a turn at a time in or out.

I’m definitely going to weigh and consider all the suggestions here. The saw is gorgeous, and really well made. I’m trying really hard to not have to sell it or trade it off because it just looks like a straight up design flaw. If I can find a way to mitigate it, I will. I’ve tried using just my fingers and that’s a lost cause. Needle nose pliers, same. I looked at the idea of turning the carburetor and that’s unfortunately not feasible because the compartment configuration and other components will not allow it, nor will it yield anymore room.

I’m almost to the point of trying to rig my own little tool, or securing about a 1/4” to 3/8” platform under the carburetor to give the screws more height. If I can do that, I won’t even need any specialized tools to reach for adjustment.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I’m definitely going to weigh and consider all the suggestions here. The saw is gorgeous, and really well made. I’m trying really hard to not have to sell it or trade it off because it just looks like a straight up design flaw. If I can find a way to mitigate it, I will. I’ve tried using just my fingers and that’s a lost cause. Needle nose pliers, same. I looked at the idea of turning the carburetor and that’s unfortunately not feasible because the compartment configuration and other components will not allow it, nor will it yield anymore room.

I’m almost to the point of trying to rig my own little tool, or securing about a 1/4” to 3/8” platform under the carburetor to give the screws more height. If I can do that, I won’t even need any specialized tools to reach for adjustment.

Since there is very little room between the carb and the back of the airbox would it be feasable to make and install a sharp wedge shaped adapter between the carb and cylinder that would tip the carb body up causing the adjust screws to be raised above the oil pump tube? I seen adapters like that on old McCulloch saws back in the day. The thick part of the wedge at the bottom, thin edge at the top.

 

[HuskyShepherd2016]

Since there is very little room between the carb and the back of the airbox would it be feasable to make and install a sharp wedge shaped adapter between the carb and cylinder that would tip the carb body up causing the adjust screws to be raised above the oil pump tube? I seen adapters like that on old McCulloch saws back in the day. The thick part of the wedge at the bottom, thin edge at the top.

Now we’re cooking! I like that!

 

[HuskyShepherd2016]

Now we’re cooking! I like that!

If you might possibly be able to find such a wedge, hit me up. The carburetor is from an old McCulloch. A 10-10 if I’m not mistaken. Or do you have any suggestions on an acceptable material that might suffice for one?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Something like this is what I had in mind, it is from a 6-10 McCulloch,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3837474589...-53200-19255-0&campid=5338722076&toolid=10001

 

[thenne1713]

I like the spacer idea. Where would I possibly find one of these? Or would I have to make one? If I have to make one, should I use just a thick piece of rubber? Or should I use a block of aluminum?

Spacer block was where I was headed; I am thinking nylon cutting board material would be easier to machine, but first concern is height interference (cover?) for raising 1/4"- 1/2"?; 2nd is problems w/ linkage/ choke? YOU will have to evaluate? Alternate is remove carb and make sure each screw head has a + cut into it vs single slot? THIS might allow a special L-shaped screw driver to work well for up to 1/4-turns? (Similar to:

 

[Gumneck]

I may be looking at it wrong but my initial thought is taking my smallest cheapest screwdriver and bending the last 5/8ths of an inch just enough to fit.

 

[HuskyShepherd2016]

Spacer block was where I was headed; I am thinking nylon cutting board material would be easier to machine, but first concern is height interference (cover?) for raising 1/4"- 1/2"?; 2nd is problems w/ linkage/ choke? YOU will have to evaluate? Alternate is remove carb and make sure each screw head has a + cut into it vs single slot? THIS might allow a special L-shaped screw driver to work well for up to 1/4-turns? (Similar to:

I may be looking at it wrong but my initial thought is taking my smallest cheapest screwdriver and bending the last 5/8ths of an inch just enough to fit.

Or a pair of rat toothed tweezers. That might work.

 

[HuskyShepherd2016]

Spacer block was where I was headed; I am thinking nylon cutting board material would be easier to machine, but first concern is height interference (cover?) for raising 1/4"- 1/2"?; 2nd is problems w/ linkage/ choke? YOU will have to evaluate? Alternate is remove carb and make sure each screw head has a + cut into it vs single slot? THIS might allow a special L-shaped screw driver to work well for up to 1/4-turns? (Similar to:

I don’t think I’d need anymore than 1/4 of an inch. Maybe that small of a variance wouldn’t interfere much with screw angle and throttle and choke linkage….I hope! Lol!

 

[Overlooker]

Along the same idea as cutting a new slot in each of the two screw heads, instead, drill several small holes around the perimeter of each screw head. Drill the holes perpendicular to the length of the screws. Then you could turn the screws with a fine tipped punch or maybe a 1/16 inch drill bit. Good luck! O

 

[501Maico]

Along the same idea as cutting a new slot in each of the two screw heads, instead, drill several small holes around the perimeter of each screw head. Drill the holes perpendicular to the length of the screws. Then you could turn the screws with a fine tipped punch or maybe a 1/16 inch drill bit. Good luck! O

Perfect! Best done with help from a machinist friend.

 

[serdie]

I’m willing to consider a multitude of options. The easiest one that yields the most effective results is the one I’m willing to consider most.

Use an offset flat head screw driver. That’s what I use. Available from snap on or craftsman

 

[billyboy]

Looks like the cross cut in screw head and 90 degree bend in a small screw driver is the easy way out.

 

[501Maico]

I haven't looked for or bought an offset screwdriver for a very long time but I can't see one being short enough to fit. The shortest one that I have is ratcheting and it won't come close to fitting. I think the torture rack idea is a winner.

 

[MacAttack]

If you filed / cut some serrations around the outside of the heads of the screws you can use a small sharp tool, like a small screwdriver with the tip ground sharp, to carefully turn the screws by pushing downward on the serrations at just the right angle. I've adjusted throttle stop screws in tough places the same way. They should turn easy enough for that to work.

 

[HuskyShepherd2016]

Use an offset flat head screw driver. That’s what I use. Available from snap on or craftsman

the space I have to work with is considerably less than 1/8” of an inch, maybe 3/32”. I don’t think that craftsman or snap on readily have anything for spaces that small. Everything I’ve researched yields me empty handed.

 

[HuskyShepherd2016]

Perfect! Best done with help from a machinist friend.

Yeah for a couple of rickety old screws! Lol