Carry a spare chain and change it when cutting

[turnkey4099]

Try hand filing using a Granberg File N Joint. You get consistent depth at 20 to 25% of the file exposed above the tooth, both angles and depth of cut (how much you take from each tooth) and get consistent results without the hazard of overheating that can be a problem with a power cutting/grinding tool. Mine fits right in the bucket of tools I carry along with my stump vice, a handful of new files and of course a spare chain. In bright sunlight I think I can see the edge I am getting better than I could in any shop.

Agree. I use a file guide that sets all the angles and depth. Once set up (less than a minute) and the rest is a no brainer, no real attention needed. Flip, file 5 times, flip, wash rinse, repeat and done with a loop in less than 10 minutes (includes mounting saw in vise and set up of the jig). Can even watch TV while filing.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

I carry spare chains when cutting, but I don't use them much only if I hit dirt or a old syrup tap or something. I monitor my chips and when they start to get small, I file the chain. I think that sharpening every tank of fuel seems a little excessive. I don't own a grinder, I used to take them to a saw shop in town but I would ony get about 4 or 5 sharpenings to a chain and then they were toast. As others have mentioned, they would discolor and you could see they had gotten way hot during the grinding and they seemed to need constant touch up to stay sharp. I have had way better luck hand filing. I just amke sure to keep lots of files on hand and toss them when they become questionable.

I made a mistake and took all my chains to a Stihl dealer for sharping. Got them back and they were OK until I filed a couple. One had a few teeth hard, the other had a bunch too hard to file. Dunno yet what the other 7 will be like. Next time I decide to have them done it will be at a saw shop in Lewiston, Id. They hand file them.

Harry K

 

[Whitespider]

I'm a "swap-the-chain" guy also... it quicker than sharpening.
I may touch it up a couple of times first, but a some point it's just time... and likely time to clean out the bar groove anyway. The tool box with all my "stuff" is always there, and it has all the chains in it. Right now I believe the count is 7...
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[AIM]

I don't hand file (just can't get the knack) so I carry an extra chain with me all the time.

 

[user 122190]

The grinding you describe is what a beginner goes thru, or a slow learner, or a shop employee that just doesn't give a damn.

When I set my grinding depth, the wheel barely grazes the cutter. The tools arm has a tiny bit of flex and I use the flex to lightly brush up against the cutters edge. There is far less heat generated in grinding (this way), then there is in cutting large rounds in the wilderness. I don't keep track but I can maybe grind my chains sharp 20, 30 or more times with the tiny amount of metal that is coming off. This of course assumes that I haven't run up against a rock and f'up the chain.

I carry spare chains when cutting, but I don't use them much only if I hit dirt or a old syrup tap or something. I monitor my chips and when they start to get small, I file the chain. I think that sharpening every tank of fuel seems a little excessive. I don't own a grinder, I used to take them to a saw shop in town but I would ony get about 4 or 5 sharpenings to a chain and then they were toast. As others have mentioned, they would discolor and you could see they had gotten way hot during the grinding and they seemed to need constant touch up to stay sharp. I have had way better luck hand filing. I just amke sure to keep lots of files on hand and toss them when they become questionable.

 

[Erik B]

For those of you who swap chains instead of sharpening in the field, and don't have a grinder, how do you sharpen your chains in the shop? Do you put each chain back on the saw to sharpen?

 

[sawjunky23]

For those of you who swap chains instead of sharpening in the field, and don't have a grinder, how do you sharpen your chains in the shop? Do you put each chain back on the saw to sharpen?

I will usually put them back on the saw to sharpen. I just did a pile of chains for my BIL, I didn't have the saw, I clamped an old bar in the vice and used that.

 

[Dogsout]

I do hand file but I am not the best at it. I guess I would fall into the change the chain crowd with a little different twist. I change the chain and saw. I usually gas up all 4 of my saws and if I run out of gas I normally just start up a fresh saw. Rule of thumb for me is if I can run 4 saws out of gas then I have cut enough wood for the day and it is time to get the splitter out. As for actually sharping the chains I am 95% grind them. I came across a nice older Foley Belsaw sharpener on Craigs list for $150 and bought it. After fiddling with it on worn out chains I think I have everything down and it does a great job. I started out with a much cheaper grinder and found that even with shims you can not take all of the slop out of the components. The Foley Belsaw on the other hand is rock solid so where you set it it stays and you will get the exact same grind on every tooth. The biggest feature on this grinder is that you can reverse the motor so you can grind into the face of the tooth on both sides.Finally to anyone that is taking chains to a shop and only getting 4 or 5 grinds per chain, or having them over heat the teeth in the grinding process find someone else to grind your chains as you are being taken to the cleaner by someone who has no idea what the hell they are doing.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I always take a couple of extra chains and just swap them out. I feel that if it is a saw day, I want to be sawing, not filing. I can resharpen at night or when it's raining and use the daylight/fit weather time to do sharpening. Dad still hand files a lot but I use the old Nielson my grandfather got when he was selling saws in the 50's. Nice because you have to have it off the saw to sharpen so it works out well. Sharpens great but a novice can and will use up a lot of life if they take off too much. The same way a novice can kill and chain with hand filing everything out of whack.

I tend to set my rakers on the aggressive side as well. If you are forcing your saw to cut, look at your rakers. I get a lot of free chain because people say it is worn out all because they hit something, had to take off a lot of metal and never took them down to match. Dad even got a few saws for cheap because owners/dealers said bad chain, bad bar, bad sprocket, etc. Probably one of the most overlooked things with saws.

 

[JeffHK454]

I'm a "swap-the-chain" guy also... it quicker than sharpening.
I may touch it up a couple of times first, but a some point it's just time... and likely time to clean out the bar groove anyway. The tool box with all my "stuff" is always there, and it has all the chains in it. Right now I believe the count is 7...
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My method also...I've got a couple chains for whatever saw or saws I bring. I'll do a quick touch up with a file but just once then it goes into the saw box for a proper sharpening once I get home.
I get great results with my Oregon grinder once its set up properly , you can screw a chain up real fast if you don't have your machine at the correct angles. If your getting chains so hot they work harden you don't know what you're doing... the correct grit wheel dressed right makes for easy machine sharpening ...not as good as a skilled hand filer but plenty sharp for firewood.

 

[sunfish]

I never carry a spear chain, don't have a grinder, always file on the bar. A filed chain done right will always cut faster than a
ground one. But it doesn't mean a damn thing either way.

 

[cantoo]

Treetangler, it ws Toxic2 that said he can cut 4 cord to a chain.
Right now I'm only cutting trees down and limbing them so ain last a long time. I take extra chains with me but very rarely change them in the bush, just switch saws to finish out the day. I very seldom cut a whole day so a chain lasts longer than I do. When I get tired I haul loads home or just cut trees into log length.
I usually save up a bunch of chains and when it's wet or too hot I will sharpen a bunch. Hard on the wrists though so I only do a few at a time.

 

[cantoo]

Treetangler, it ws Toxic2 that said he can cut 4 cord to a chain.
Right now I'm only cutting trees down and limbing them so ain last a long time. I take extra chains with me but very rarely change them in the bush, just switch saws to finish out the day. I very seldom cut a whole day so a chain lasts longer than I do. When I get tired I haul loads home or just cut trees into log length.
I usually save up a bunch of chains and when it's wet or too hot I will sharpen a bunch. Hard on the wrists though so I only do a few at a time.

 

[Toxic2]

Tree tangler..i may have over exagerated the amount by a little bit..lol but you get my point..there is no reason to sharpen as often as most seem too. I also hate cutting on a dull chain and expect nothing less than full size chips outa my 362..when they start to get small and dusty i will file it..

 

[Philbert]

Everyone has to find something that works for them.

. . . I would use the Grinder, . . . Even with a new file, I could not get the file to bite. It is almost like it is hardened now.

Using a grinder requires some knowledge, some experience, and some skill. Several threads on this.

Chances are, you did not ruin the chain. If you grind back through the hardened edges, you should be able to file it again.

If the chain is worth it, cover postage and I will do this for you in my 'Challenge Chain' thread.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

For those of you who swap chains instead of sharpening in the field, and don't have a grinder, how do you sharpen your chains in the shop?

Some guys use an extra bar held in a vice (any length bar, but correct gauge helps). This works well with a Granberg style filing jig.

Some guys use a filing vise.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-low-tech-filing-vise.245004/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-low-er-tech-filing-vise.277258/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/i-made-some-chain-vises.240935/

Philbert

 

[turnkey4099]

For those of you who swap chains instead of sharpening in the field, and don't have a grinder, how do you sharpen your chains in the shop? Do you put each chain back on the saw to sharpen?

Yes, on the saw. Doesn't take much time to change a chain out.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Tree tangler..i may have over exagerated the amount by a little bit..lol but you get my point..there is no reason to sharpen as often as most seem too. I also hate cutting on a dull chain and expect nothing less than full size chips outa my 362..when they start to get small and dusty i will file it..

I change out chains when I realize I am "riding" the saw to make it cut. If a saw won't self feed with no pressure, the chain needs attention.

Harry K

 

[dancan]

I was a chain swaper till I bought the 2 in 1 guides , now I'm a filer LOL

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/2in1file/
http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201b/201b01/201b010503P.html

 

[Whitespider]

Do you put each chain back on the saw to sharpen?

Yes.
And then clamp the bar (with powerhead attached) in the bench vise.
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