Again, what you say just doesn't jive with what's going on in the real world. Just yesterday, a member from H---th described his experience with the Ideal Steel during "higher BTU demand". He is the resident expert over there and I've read enough of his posts to give credit to what he says:
"As I have said, I find the primaries on this stove to be weak and once the gasses are burned off of the wood, the burn slows way down. That is fine for 20F and above, in fact it is great, but when it is really cold, the stove cannot keep up. It was -5F overnight here and the draft wide open would not keep the stove producing enough heat to maintain the house at 73F. What it needs is some air coming up from the bottom, through the coals bed. Then the primary air can be turned way down to about 3 hash marks and the stove will produce great heat for a long time. But without the air coming in from the bottom, the coals just cannot be burned fast enough to produce sufficient heat, at least with my I.S. and my chimney setup."
"Draft wide open" and his Ideal Steel could not produce enough heat? I guess your definition of "higher BTU demand" is different than mine.
That same member has a thermocouple setup on his Ideal Steel to track performance and I know you've seen the graph since you are a member. But for those who haven't, I've attached it. Notice how, after 6 hours, all indicators start heading down. And at 10 hours, it is getting to the point where it will most likely be struggling to heat the home.
That graph explains a lot to me about his burn times. It is pumping heat like crazy the first 6 hours, then putters out. To have real world/heat your home burn times, the stove must be able to flatten those lines out (consistent, even heat). Without an auto damper, the Ideal Steel is not capable of doing this.