CB 5648 issue

[Kevin in Ohio]

i own a 5648 stainless that has been online since 02. 36' x 50' 2 story farm house with full basement and radiant floor heat in attached 36' x 50' garage + dhw. average 13 cord a year with new windows and fully insulated house. First year prior to redoing the house was close to 30 cord usage. 185 high set 178 low set. extreme cold if both zones in garage kick on it may need a reload in 12 hours. Didn't read all replies but I'd be looking at you lines to the house. Trying to heat groundwater will be a nightmare. What is the temp drop from outgoing line from stove to where it enters home? Lots of variables here and these are not efficient stoves. Even so, check the easy stuff first.

Biggest mistake I see people doing is thinking their underground lines are sealed because the manufacturer 'says' it's water tight. Run a drainage tile under them with either sand or pea gravel surrounding. Cheap insurance in the long run. I went so far as to use smooth bore field tile so if needed, I could pull a new line tomorrow with no excavation. Lines run under the garage and driveway. I personally know of 2 locals that had issues with this as all it takes is one groundwater contact and you'll be throwing heat away.

A bad rope seal will make your boiler use more wood but it would be overheatng/steaming/boiling over.

 

[panolo]

Like Kevin said I would sure think the rope would cause an overheating issue.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Like Kevin said I would sure think the rope would cause an overheating issue.

I have a hard time believing a dealer could/would even say that to someone. To the OP, find another dealer as they are WAY off on that one.

 

[panolo]

Honestly it has to be a huge heat loss from somewhere in the system or there has to be a restriction that is not allowing the water to be heated efficiently in the boiler. Unit is huge at just under 400 gallons.

It sounds like you are burning quality wood so we should be able to rule that out. I can't see it not boiling over with a air leak at one of the doors or dampers not closing.

I'd be leaning towards an issue with your exchangers in the home, something failed in the boiler that is not allowing it heat properly, or an issue with the lines losing heat . You don't have 5" of creosote in the firebox do you? Does it have water or antifreeze in the lines? What is your temp when the water leaves the boiler directly under the pump(S)? When it enters the house? When it enters the exchangers? When it leaves the exchangers? When it enters back into the boiler? Where is the thermo static valve in reference to the system design?

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Honestly it has to be a huge heat loss from somewhere in the system or there has to be a restriction that is not allowing the water to be heated efficiently in the boiler. Unit is huge at just under 400 gallons.

It sounds like you are burning quality wood so we should be able to rule that out. I can't see it not boiling over with a air leak at one of the doors or dampers not closing.

I'd be leaning towards an issue with your exchangers in the home, something failed in the boiler that is not allowing it heat properly, or an issue with the lines losing heat . You don't have 5" of creosote in the firebox do you? Does it have water or antifreeze in the lines? What is your temp when the water leaves the boiler directly under the pump(S)? When it enters the house? When it enters the exchangers? When it leaves the exchangers? When it enters back into the boiler? Where is the thermo static valve in reference to the system design?

What are the ranges set at on the heatrac? IF your house is sealed as you say it would be driving you out if it was stuck open. The heat is going somewhere. The heatrac thermostat is on the boiler itself. It does read consistant doesn't it? Meaning slow up and down? If it jumps drastic that's a sign of loose wire from the factory. I had that with mine. Heat exchanger issue would either be driving you out from too much or boiler's temp would stay up and house is cold. Since it burns up all the wood fine, that rules out a restricted flue. Creosote buildup on the bottom does effect but the top normally self cleans as it drip/burns off so you still have at least 70 per cent contact surface. Simply need more info and if you'd rather just call, pm me and I'll help if I can.

 

[Indiana42]

i own a 5648 stainless that has been online since 02. 36' x 50' 2 story farm house with full basement and radiant floor heat in attached 36' x 50' garage + dhw. average 13 cord a year with new windows and fully insulated house. First year prior to redoing the house was close to 30 cord usage. 185 high set 178 low set. extreme cold if both zones in garage kick on it may need a reload in 12 hours. Didn't read all replies but I'd be looking at you lines to the house. Trying to heat groundwater will be a nightmare. What is the temp drop from outgoing line from stove to where it enters home? Lots of variables here and these are not efficient stoves. Even so, check the easy stuff first.

Biggest mistake I see people doing is thinking their underground lines are sealed because the manufacturer 'says' it's water tight. Run a drainage tile under them with either sand or pea gravel surrounding. Cheap insurance in the long run. I went so far as to use smooth bore field tile so if needed, I could pull a new line tomorrow with no excavation. Lines run under the garage and driveway. I personally know of 2 locals that had issues with this as all it takes is one groundwater contact and you'll be throwing heat away.

A bad rope seal will make your boiler use more wood but it would be overheatng/steaming/boiling over.

I was kind of thinking not the rope seal but was willing to try anything to fix this. Kevin, the unit I have is about same age about 2002 but I don't know how much they used it. The house was foreclosed and when I bought in 2011 replace lines from boiler to house with thermopex tubing 50 feet. No matter how much wood I consume the big fact is that I can't go 8 hours with boiler running out of wood and temp down to 150. I have been even thinking something is in the boiler that is insulating the fire from the water somewhat. Every once in a while it sounds like water is boiling but the temperature is at 180. I do think the temp on boiler is right now because when I put the IR gun coming out of boiler is was exact to the boiler temp.

 

[Indiana42]

I have a hard time believing a dealer could/would even say that to someone. To the OP, find another dealer as they are WAY off on that one.

He also asked about the exhaust pipe if it was insulated and to maybe replace that too but I don't see how that would keep any heat in the boiler.

 

[Indiana42]

Honestly it has to be a huge heat loss from somewhere in the system or there has to be a restriction that is not allowing the water to be heated efficiently in the boiler. Unit is huge at just under 400 gallons.

It sounds like you are burning quality wood so we should be able to rule that out. I can't see it not boiling over with a air leak at one of the doors or dampers not closing.

I'd be leaning towards an issue with your exchangers in the home, something failed in the boiler that is not allowing it heat properly, or an issue with the lines losing heat . You don't have 5" of creosote in the firebox do you? Does it have water or antifreeze in the lines? What is your temp when the water leaves the boiler directly under the pump(S)? When it enters the house? When it enters the exchangers? When it leaves the exchangers? When it enters back into the boiler? Where is the thermo static valve in reference to the system design?

Aren't the heat exchangers in the house pretty much straight forward similar to a radiator in your car water flows through exchanger and air passes by it. Question I have is what problems could a heat exchanger have? I am thinking something is in the boiler tank insulating the fire from water. The thermostatic valve in under the crawl which I installed last year thinking that would help. Water into pump same as boiler set temp and going back into boiler was about 30 degree difference. both years I have cleaned out the fire box at the bottom I kept 3 to 4" of ash

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

He also asked about the exhaust pipe if it was insulated and to maybe replace that too but I don't see how that would keep any heat in the boiler.

That as well has nothing to do with maintaining chamber temp. If your heat is passed the internal baffle to the flue, it's gone. You are wasting your time talking with this person telling you this stuff. Hate to be harsh, but that's the truth.

Do you have heatrac digital on it?

If so, what are your open and close limits?

When you put your IR gun on the boilers outgoing line what is it compared to what the IR gun says where it enters your house?

Need to know these answers before I can help.

My boiler will boil water like that too. It's just an extreme hot spot when you have a roaring fire going. Water can't pull the heat away fast enough.

 

[Indiana42]

That as well has nothing to do with maintaining chamber temp. If your heat is passed the internal baffle to the flue, it's gone. You are wasting your time talking with this person telling you this stuff. Hate to be harsh, but that's the truth.

Do you have heatrac digital on it?

If so, what are your open and close limits?

When you put your IR gun on the boilers outgoing line what is it compared to what the IR gun says where it enters your house?

Need to know these answers before I can help.

My boiler will boil water like that too. It's just an extreme hot spot when you have a roaring fire going. Water can't pull the heat away fast enough.

I do have the digital display and the limits are 185 shuts damper and 178 opens damper. Not sure what heatrac is.
The boiler temp on the display was exactly what the IR gun stated coming out of the boiler into the pump. The only spot I would be concerned on lines is where it meets the house into the crawl space I had to cut away insulation to put pex through wall.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I do have the digital display and the limits are 185 shuts damper and 178 opens damper. Not sure what heatrac is.
The boiler temp on the display was exactly what the IR gun stated coming out of the boiler into the pump. The only spot I would be concerned on lines is where it meets the house into the crawl space I had to cut away insulation to put pex through wall.

The digital display IS the heatrac system. You can vary the temps settings if you wish but that is where i keep mine.

Again, What is the temp difference between where it exits your stove and when it first enters your home? If it is less than a 5 degree difference, there is nothing wrong with your stove, Your house is an energy hog. Do you have lots of windows with great views? They loose heat like crazy. Do you have a back up heating system? If so, what were the bills. Wood heat doesn't make up for heat losses in homes. BTU's are BTU's whether it's wood, oil or propane. As I stated earlier. My house had ZERO insulation and drafty windows. 30 cord usage and house felt cold. redid it all and house is toasty and uses 13. Still high with the stoves of today as it is not catalytic. Probably be 7 cord with one of the new ones but I'm waiting till it dies to change. I'm just being real with you on this.

 

[absrio]

Yes I agree it should keep up heating the house. The only thing I can think of is the heat exchanger in the attic furnace box is losing heat somehow. I do have insulation around the duct work and where the exchanger is. The aquastat and solenoid valve seems to be working just fine. Heaven for bid it would get down to -15F. Coldest night since I have had this going was 2F. A friend of mine has a smaller unit and only throws a few logs in keeps all day.

what exactly is a heat exchanger doing in the attic???

 

[Indiana42]

The digital display IS the heatrac system. You can vary the temps settings if you wish but that is where i keep mine.

Again, What is the temp difference between where it exits your stove and when it first enters your home? If it is less than a 5 degree difference, there is nothing wrong with your stove, Your house is an energy hog. Do you have lots of windows with great views? They loose heat like crazy. Do you have a back up heating system? If so, what were the bills. Wood heat doesn't make up for heat losses in homes. BTU's are BTU's whether it's wood, oil or propane. As I stated earlier. My house had ZERO insulation and drafty windows. 30 cord usage and house felt cold. redid it all and house is toasty and uses 13. Still high with the stoves of today as it is not catalytic. Probably be 7 cord with one of the new ones but I'm waiting till it dies to change. I'm just being real with you on this.

The temp from when it exits the stove is about 5 degrees or less from when it enters the home. I do have lots of windows in the house but house is only 14 years old and well insulated. My backup heat is propane I was first using 1000 gallon propane tank and house has two furnance one downstairs and one in attic.

 

[Indiana42]

what exactly is a heat exchanger doing in the attic???

My furnace is in the attic so I have the heat exchanger installed in the duct work but I have insulated pretty well.

 

[absrio]

we need pictures, lots and lots of pictures

 

[Jakers]

i really hate to be the one to say it but it almost sounds like your house may not be as efficient as you think. the heat load seems to be there. combine that with a combination of rust and scale on the inside of the water jacket from sitting and a small loss from your crawl space and i believe you have multiple small problems contributing to a big one.

I am no expert on OWB's as i do not own nor have i ever operated one before. i know people who go through astronomical amounts of wood in them to heat a standard size home. i own a tree service so i can personally attest to them burning 20+ cord as i drop off wood there all summer and its gone the next spring. seeing how the install was done and the condition of their house tells me they could get by with half of that if they fixed very similar simple problems

 

[absrio]

you may want to double check the wiring on the furnace there is a chance if you mix up a couple wires that it could run the ac also. it sounds crazy but stranger things have happened.

 

[Indiana42]

you may want to double check the wiring on the furnace there is a chance if you mix up a couple wires that it could run the ac also. it sounds crazy but stranger things have happened.

It crossed my mind. Thanks