When I was i school shop we had a teacher that taught me how to sharpen drill bits. That alone has saved me hundreds of dollars over the years. Being able to sharpen your own tools is a valuable skill.
Chain cleaning
- Thread starter Ron660
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Years ago I was so busy I dropped my chains off at the saw shop. It cost maybe 5 bucks back then. Then I guess they were training a new guy and when I picked up my NEW EXPENSIVE chain it was almost no teeth. It looked worn down like an old chain. They assured me that's my chain. I was polite. I always am. But started filing at night. At first it was not nice. Smoked a few chains but kept at it. Read about How To. Ask others to help. Finally I started getting sharp chains. It's a long learning process. I built a device to put chains on to sharpen. Made my own angle guide. Learned to gently pull up into the tooth. Learned to file my rakers. Bought a small flat file to set the tooth angle of the damaged teeth. Some teeth tend to round with wear. Learned how to balance, left, right cutters. Always make a test cut and resharpen if I'm not satisfied. For years I'd sharpen chains and friends chains on a weekend. Kinda like a chain filing party. The more chains the better I got. Finally I said, ok. No more free filing. Once in a while I will but only 1 at a time. Have a great day.
No question, you can ruin a good chain with a grinder. I can also ruin a good chainsaw in seconds, or drive a new pickup truck right into a tree. Just takes a few seconds. Anyone want to lose a bet? Give me a new chain and a sharp file, and I will 'ruin' each cutter with less that 2 strokes, IF I don't do it 'right'. Grinders just let folks sharpen (or destroy) a chain faster!
To paraphrase the Second Amendment guys, 'grinders don't ruin chains; guys who don't know how to grind ruin chains'.
Grinding, filing, different guides, etc.: they all take practice to develop skill. Everyone has to find something that works for them.
P.S. - I would still want a clean chain even if I was filing!
Philbert
Yes, fully agree.
I use a brush AND compressed air to clean, chain Before and After filing. Then entire saw gets cleaned. One thing I've seen is guys pouring gas out of dirty containers. I carry a brush and clean cloth. Everything is cleaned before oil or gas goes in. My fuel is mixed then divided into 1 gallon containers. Fuel is stored in those gallon containers in a clean ice chest setting under ground inside a dry dark place. I also use all my fuel in a couple of months. I'm very Anal about my Equipment. Years ago I got a degree in Electronics but hated working indoors so went back to what I love. I wanted a 120ac welder. At the time 20+ years ago Microwave ovens had some pretty good transformers. Being Anal, I used parts, rewound transformers etc. And built what I wanted. Yes, I take it to the limit. I still use that little Cracker Box. That ain't the subject but it kinda shows how I think. Average just don't work for me. Ain't no good enough. It's good or no good. Ha. Ha. Not cranky. Just aware. Have a great day.
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Did that with a old 1kilovolt transformer from electric co. No microwaves back then. still have it multi voltage taps and amperage taps as well as some adjustment in each tap area.
(I can barely get polarized plugs into the outlet the correct way).
Philbert
Philbert
Cool. I have cooling fan etc. Looks like a small Lincoln. Three Transformers. I use it here on the farm most of the time because 220vac takes more time. Even my Generator powers this baby. Ive made money doing lite welding just grab the generator and welder go to their homes. Mostly hand rails, stuff like that.
Epiq45
ArboristSite Lurker
Man...am i the only one who spikes B&C oil with transmission fluid??? Makes it easier to see, and doesnt let things stick to chains or in bar grooves...cleans up with an air hose after work...
I spike mine with STP sticks to the chain well. Also when I changed oil on my equipment I set it up. A month later being cautious NOT to stir it up I pour a gallon off. The motor oil is 10/40 so it's Thin in cold weather and thicker in hot weather.
Therefore by leaving it in a cold barn a few days it flows pretty good and filters well. Because it's Black it's easy to see. The oil works well in hot OR cold weather. The few times I've thined bar oil was with transmission fluid. I make a very effective Light oil for small things like small electric motors by mixing a few drops of STP with transmission oil. Just cheap STP not the synthetic. Good luck with your project.
bowtechmadman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have to say I've never cleaned a chain. Despite the great advice on how to do it I'm thinking I will probably still never clean one.
I remove my chain when I sharpen them. Before reinstalled they are cleaned and lubercated.
In fact a brand new chain should be sharpened and lubercated before installing. My opinion. Yours may vary. Also when flush cutting stumps it's a good idea to have a 5 gallon bucket of freah water, no soap, on the trailer. I put my bar tip in the bucket and throttle up a bit to wash the chain. Water doesn't wash the oil off but does get dirt. There are so many variables with Chainsaws it's seldom a hard and fast, must be this or that way unless it involves safety. Have a great day.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
After sharpening I do a test cut right away to make sure the chain is sharpened correctly.
With brand new saw chain right out of the box or chain reel I sharpen in the gullet then do the file n guide on the top of the tooth. Then set the rakers.
I always wanted to weld old rims on a shaft to crank chains in a oil bucket to relube them.
With brand new saw chain right out of the box or chain reel I sharpen in the gullet then do the file n guide on the top of the tooth. Then set the rakers.
I always wanted to weld old rims on a shaft to crank chains in a oil bucket to relube them.
Oregon says to soak chains in bar and chain oil, but that stuff is so thick, and so messy on the rest of the chain.
I use WD-40 (thin, penetrates into the center of the river, and displaces any water from cleaning), sprayed on (bulk sprayer) then bushes on wit a toothbrush.
I use a thin oil, like 3-in-1, on individual tight links (sometimes it is dried oil making old chains stuff).
Philbert
I use WD-40 (thin, penetrates into the center of the river, and displaces any water from cleaning), sprayed on (bulk sprayer) then bushes on wit a toothbrush.
I use a thin oil, like 3-in-1, on individual tight links (sometimes it is dried oil making old chains stuff).
Philbert
My method is a MIX of oil and Automatic transmission fluid. A little bit of STP to slick it up. This mix is used on my Bicycle, fan motors, AC units, Guns a lot of things. The Transmission fluid cleans and Lubs. The mix is varied accordion to situation.
I'm actually NOT the Geunise. A engineer told me. I have Smart friends. Like the guys on this site. Be Blessed.
shanto52
ArboristSite Lurker
Yes chain cleaning is necessary. check it for full details How to Sharpen a Chainsaw
I use kerosene. Cheap and easy.
I really only do this if I'm in pines. Cutting hard woods the chains just don't get that dirty to warrant being cleaned.
I really only do this if I'm in pines. Cutting hard woods the chains just don't get that dirty to warrant being cleaned.
My dad works for county Dpw and puts a bucket under the drill press because everyone uses drillbits once and tows then away. Before he use to get them I used to sharpen all mine. Makes me a little sick that it happens but I guess I’m getting my tax dollars back in drill bits
Considering the chain is on backwards in the photo at the top of that page, I'd be wary of anything they say.
Not to mention the fact you don't sharpen a chainsaw but the chain that goes on the saw.
Semantics, maybe, but I like to say what I mean and mean what I say.
Some folks flip the bar and saw upside down to file the opposite side cutters. "Once you have done with the chainsaw blade, flip it to 180 degrees and repeat the process. "
But there are a lot of things in that article I have concerns about. Like the cordless drill thing. And other stuff.
Philbert
Interesting. Never heard of anyone doing that. Seems like having a swivel vice solves that problem, or just having the saw setup perpendicular to the bench. I like to sharpen on the floor, having the vice up on a box at a height that is comfortable to me. If I had a workbench or space that could function as one, it might be a different story. Seems like a waste of time taking the chain off and putting it back on, then having to do it again to be the right way.
